Sealing wooden blades

[daleh007]

As my sets of blades near completion I wonder what I should use to seal/protect them with. At first I considered using tung oil but then thought maybe something that has a pigment for UV protection (like Superdeck or Sun Frog) might work better. What are your thoughts?

Daleh007

[picmacmillan]

in my opinion, use what you have...i used paint on one set, and varnish on 2 others...the varnish shows the wood nicely, but some have said it may break down in the weather...i have had them outside for a few months now, and havent noticed any degrading of any of my blades......danb uses linseed oil, with his cedar blades and in my opinion, they look fantastic...that is probably where i am heading on my next set.....good luck on your project..pickster

[electrondady1]

it all depends on how often you want to recoat. good old linseed oil falls into the surface and gives good protection. it does not form a membrane. spar varnish forms a strong membrane but it's brittle and blisters . cetol 1 and cetol23 are probably the ulimate clear coat for exterior wood.  if you want an opaque finish marine enamels have a good reputation, but two part epoxy paint is brobably the toughest.  

[rotornuts]

I'm with electrondaddy on varnishes. They form a layer that will eventually seperate from the wood. I as well as others have been known to use motor oil for outdoor stuff that you won't come in contact with. Linseed is a good choice but tung oil is unlikely to stand up to the elements well an will propably become tacky.

[healerenergy]

Rotor motor oil will eventually break down the wood. Synthetic chain saw bar oil may be better my grandpa used it on his leather boots for years. Something to think about.

[Reno]

I came across some of that spray on bedliner and tried that. It goes on very thin and is rubber based so it should last also has UV protection in it. I would think this stuff was made for covering blades rather than truck boxes. One can did my 6 foot blades no problem including the metal hub.

[pyrocasto]

Aluthane is actually the best layer type sealer there is(i believe). As soon as my internet is up I'll post a link, or you can just search.

You can get a deck stain with linseed oil in it that should last 3-5 years(garrenteed) for $15-20 a gallon at Lowes.

[Chagrin]

If we're talking 100% honest-to-god tung oil it shouldn't get tacky. Tung oil does harden - it just takes about a week or so to fully cure, same as linseed oil. Of course, the tung oil found in stores is mixed with who knows what and I can't vouch for how that'll hold up.

[rotornuts]

Is there a chemical reaction there or does motor oil supprt microbial lfe?

[Experimental]

Hi,

   You might want to try,"West systems" #105, epoxy resin -- it is specially formulated for wood and realy sticks and soaks in -- but if you use it, leave one drilled pin hole in each tip, so water can escape -- (this is used on experimental aircraft props)

   This stuff, is expensive, but will add a very tough finish and abrasion resistance -- apply with a brush, sand between coats and use about three or more coats -- finish sand with (wet sanding)400 or even 600 paper then polish with buffing compound -- you will get a glass finish !!

   Yeah, I know --- lots of work -- But, your blades will be good for years and it has UV protection -- you can also balance the blades as you go, by simply putting more coats on the lightest blades !!

   This stuff is also perfect as a glue, and you can buy a thickening agent for that purpose-- also get the pump kit, as mixing proportions are critical -- can also be used for bonding your magnets and use the thickener agent here, so you will have many uses for it...  Bill H.....( avaliable at boat shops)