Author Topic: 10 foot up and running (Read 4880 times)

windy · « **on:** June 23, 2007, 03:16:47 AM »

I finally got around to posting pictures of my 3 hp 3 phase conversion with a 10 foot diameter blade. I am using it to heat domestic hot water. So far,the highest I have seen the water temp was 105 degrees in a 80 gallon tank after an all day 25 mph wind.I had it up for four months and so far no problems other than the blades seeking the wind. I need to lower it and increase the tail stop from 10 degreees to 20 or 30 degrees. It's gone through 50 mph winds without flying apart and the furling system seem to be working ok. Waiting for the 80 mph blast to see if I have all the bugs worked out. The only thing that scares me is I can't stop the blades by shorting out the generator when it is running. Anything over a 15 mph wind and it won't stop. I didn't think a 10 foot diameter blade would overpower the generator. Top speed is around 500 rpm using a digital frequency tester. Don't know how accurate that is, but it seems to be close to that. Still trying to dream up some kind of simple controller to switch the elements between star and delta.

The blade was the part that took the longest to build. I used cedar siding cut into strips and epoxied together using System three epoxy. It turned out so good that my nephew said that if it didn't work for the windmill that he could use it for a ceiling fan in his new house.

Another picture of the blade mounted on the generator.The furling system was built using Hugh's book on building windmills.

The raising of the mill. No one around to see it going up and nobody around in case I had a major failure. It went up with no problems using a silo winch that I got off an old silo that was not used anymore. It takes about twenty minutes to raise and about two minutes to lower. It's a two speed winch.

Finally up and no wind. Figured I better take a picture in case something unforseen happens. The tower is 70 feet high using 5 inch sch 40 pipe with 3/8 inch cables going to the top guyes and 5/16 inch on the other two guyes. I poured 2 yards of concrete for each anchor and two yards at the base. I built everything heavy enough so if I want, I can go to a 16 or 18 foot diameter blade. It was an interesting winter project and now that it is up, it's amazing how many people come up and ask questions about the windmill! I am going to keep experimenting with this one before I try a larger one, but I am sure I will try again this winter.
Thanks to all who answered all my ,what may have sounded like, silly questions. It never hurts to ask. Also,thanks to zubbly for all his posts on motor conversions. That was truely helpfull.

windy

Nando · « **Reply #1 on:** June 22, 2007, 09:33:18 PM »

Congratulations she looks great and well mounted to fly well and for long time

Nando

Ungrounded Lightning Rod · « **Reply #2 on:** June 22, 2007, 09:56:53 PM »

Gorgeous blades!

I hope the base is more than 80 feet from the house. B-)

tecker · « **Reply #3 on:** June 23, 2007, 05:32:00 AM »

Looks like your good to go and I bet the extra power will be a relief .

Niecely done .

luv2weld · « **Reply #4 on:** June 23, 2007, 07:06:52 AM »

Nice job!!! The blades are absolutely gorgeous!!

Thanks for sharing it with us.

Ralph

harrie · « **Reply #5 on:** June 23, 2007, 08:20:09 PM »

Nice job Windy, also looks like you have a good place for clean wind. Thanks for sharing, Harrie

windy · « **Reply #6 on:** June 23, 2007, 10:59:10 PM »

It's about 150 feet from any buildings. I didn't want any surprises if it blew over.

windy

windy · « **Reply #7 on:** June 23, 2007, 10:59:39 PM »

It's about 150 feet from any buildings. I didn't want any surprises if it blew over.

windy

windspeed · « **Reply #8 on:** June 24, 2007, 04:21:29 PM »

hi windy

you seem to have arrived

i am a few steps behind you building my tower, but planning ahead.

can i ask you how your water heating system works is it a dump load with batteries and controller

thanks alot

windspeed

windy · « **Reply #9 on:** June 29, 2007, 08:28:11 PM »

windspeed

I replumbed the hot water heater so I could install three elements. All three elements are wired through a relay that switches between star and delta. The generator is wired 1 star. I don't switch anything at the generator. There are no batteries and I am still working on a simple controller. It all works ok but a 10 foot diameter blade will not give you a lot of hot water. If the wind blows 25-30 mph 24/7 than you may be impressed. Average windspeed here is 14 mph. I don't think I will ever have to worry about overheating. I'm still thinking of going to a bigger blade and generator.

windy

Dave B · « **Reply #10 on:** July 02, 2007, 01:56:30 PM »

Hello Windy,

Great job and nice photos. I am curious to know how you re-plumbed your hot water tank for 3 elements ? Was this a 3 phase tank or did you some how add another element to a 2 element tank ? I am planning the same thing and have not purchased my pre-heat tank yet. I had planned on running 2 elements at the new tank and replacing the lower element in my old tank with the same for a balanced 3 phase load. I would rather have 3 elements at the new tank but wow are the 3 phase commercial tanks expensive ! Thanks for your reply, Dave B.

windy · « **Reply #11 on:** July 03, 2007, 09:59:28 PM »

Dave B

It's just a standard single phase water heater.. This tank is used just to preheat the water before it goes into the primary water heater. I used 3-4500 watt 240volt 1 inch threaded elements. I inserted the top and bottom elements through 1 inch galvinized tees into the tank, and the other element is inserted in a vertical pipe that is connected between the top and bottom elements. When the water starts to get hot in the vertical pipe, it naturally circulates from bottom to top. No circulating pump is needed. It works good, but I don't know how it would work with a larger generator. I think it would circulate fast enough so it wouldn't overheat.I used 4-1 inch tees, 2- 1 1/4 inch x 1 inch reducing couplings, 1-1 inch union, and different lengths of nipples. I used the 1 1/4 inch pipe so the element had more water around it.The picture shows how I did this. If you have any other questions, I would be happy to answer them.

windy

Dave B · « **Reply #12 on:** July 04, 2007, 01:48:29 PM »

Hi Windy,

Thanks for the hot water tank details and photo. I guess I can't quite figure out how the water gets around the elements and how you keep the wire from getting wet also ? Are all the elements mounted in the pipe instead of into the tank ? I can't quite visualize the mounting of the elements in relation to their normal position. Thanks for your help, we are both doing very similar things. My first was a 12 foot and I'm near pulling up a new 18' now, like you said this should be a little more practical for pre-heating water. Dave B.

vawtman · « **Reply #13 on:** July 04, 2007, 03:06:04 PM »

Hi Dave

Im planning on using an old fuel 500gal tank has preheater(tank in basement)Just would need to add a relief valve and a limit switch(if needed)Solar could also help.

Not sure of your concern about the wire getting wet.

Insulate it during the summer and open it up in winter.

Thoughts for ya

Mark

RP · « **Reply #14 on:** July 04, 2007, 03:47:28 PM »

Elements 2 and 3 are poking about a foot into the the tank through pipe tees with the side of the tees pointing to the left. The electrical box is mounted on the outside (dry side) of the 2&3 elements and the wiring for those two is run through a piece of conduit (which is the right hand vertical pipe you see).

Element 1 is mounted vertically with the wet side poking down through the end of the tee at the top left and with another electrical box on its dry side.

Drag the image out to your desktop and open it in an image viewer to see it full size.

ghurd · « **Reply #15 on:** July 04, 2007, 03:59:29 PM »

Or "Right Click" and choose 'View Image'.

G-

windy · « **Reply #16 on:** July 05, 2007, 08:50:19 PM »

Hi Dave

RP does a good job of explaining my hookup. Can't think of anything to add. Will be interesting to see how your 18' mill will heat water.

Keep us posted!

windy

Dave B · « **Reply #17 on:** July 06, 2007, 12:46:53 PM »

Windy,

I think I have your plumbing figured out for the 3 elements. Are you concerned with the pipe or T's getting extra hot from the elements being so close rather than totally submerged in their normal location inside the tank ? We have done so many similar things, here's a photo of my 18' with the wincharger blades, getting ready to mount this whole assembly as the tower top to my 85' tilt tower. I'm using a worm drive silo winch also driven by a right angle drill about 300 rpm. 40:1 on the winch then up and back with the cable on the 52' gin pole takes about 15-20 minutes or so to pull it up. What is your finish on your blades ? These look fantastic. Dave B.

windy · « **Reply #18 on:** July 07, 2007, 06:11:10 PM »

Hi Dave

I'm not worried the pipe or the elements getting to hot. I am just wondering if enough water will circulate naturally through the vertical pipe fast enough to keep the water from turning to steam on an 18 foot generator. It wouldn't be that hard to install a small circulating pump in the vertical pipe to increase water flow if the water gets to hot in the pipe. As for the finish on the blades, I used System Three marine varnish. I wanted to use something that was compatible with the System Three epoxy. Three coats and it looks like glass. When the mill is running the sun even reflects off the blades. Had the mill down last week for some adjustments and the varnish is still holding up, but there is some tip erosion taking place. I'm still having problems with the mill swinging from side to side when it is running. Tried to increase the tail stop from 10 degrees to 30 degrees but that didn't really help. I am thinking of trying to increase the tail area,but that may make the mill run to fast. How many square inches of tail area do you have on your 18 foot? I'll keep experimenting.

windy

Dave B · « **Reply #19 on:** July 08, 2007, 12:10:05 AM »

Windy,

I agree that there might be a bit too much heat at times for the size of the pipe. I had planned on 3 elements all the same with 2 wired in the new storage tank as normal and the other wired as the lower element of my main tank. Maybe dpdt snap disks to switch to external dump loads just in case of over heating, plenty of ideas. My new 18' has approx. 1740 sq. in of tail area or 12 sq. ft. I carved my previous 12' blades and did not build enough offset with the hub mount. These would not properly furl and would overspeed. They would even self start completely shorted and accelerate with scarry speed (I measured 800 RPM in 60+ mph winds !!) this was about double rpm I had hoped to furl at 400. A little over 9" offset on my 18' plus I have a mechanical parking brake now besides. Sounds to me you may have borderline offset or a heavy tail or both causing the back and forth motion. If you can make the tail lighter and or with more surface area besides I think you may get it to furl earlier with no back and forth motion. Great blades ! I have installed stainless steel tape for a couple feet on each blade tip leading edge, it's amazing how they will wear without protection. Keep us posted, I'll do the same. Dave B.

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Author Topic: 10 foot up and running (Read 4880 times)