Hello again,
That posting is alittle confusing because he did multiple projects there.
Forget the car alternator for now though. Maybe someone will talk about that. But he also did a DC treadmill motor which is a permanent magnet motor like yours.
I think I can see what you are doing now here:
http://www.scienceshareware.com/articles/byo-stand/build-your-own-generator-bike-trainer-stand-1.htm
I guess I was wrong to some degree. He is using a standard 26" 10-speed bicicle and back wheel I believe to power that motor a very fast rpm.(probably 2000 or more)
So I suppose it will work to some degree. (But I still don't believe his stated Watt output though)
However, I would think the rubber wheel and especially that small rubber drive on the motor would wear out quick though, but I could be wrong.
Personally, I would just use a small WOODEN drive on the motor like Ben did at "www.gotwind.org" on his PedGen project.
I suspect just about any PM treadmill motor would have worked equal to or better at a lower rpm than that motor.
Such as:
http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2008020719461300&item=10-1783&catname=
It starts making power into a 12volt battery at about 600rpm I believe.
I think its too fast for a decent 4' windmill though.
Your concern about the regulator and battery was my first concern and question when i started here a few years ago. I don't know if I've learned that much since then but I havent blew up any batteries yet, so I believe you don't have to worry about the voltage OR the current (to a great degree) going into your 12v battery.
I highly doubt you will get anywhere near 60 amps flowing into a battery, so you don't have to worry about that.
You don't have to worry about the open voltage from your dc generator(motor) either.
I have hooked up generators and alternators that are doing upto 140 volts dc to my 12v battery and it handles it fine. The battery itself 'clamps' the open voltage down to its 12-14 volt level. It sort of turns the 'extra' volts into more amps, automatically, while holding the voltage down. Of course it is an ineffiecient thing to do though. I think usually about 25-40 open volts is pretty common for a dc generator's open max voltage-- for going into a 12volt battery.
You will need an appropriate sized DIODE (or,bridge rectifier works also) in series between the motor and the battery to keep the motor from spinning like a motor.
What I do is, when I am generating at about 2 amps into my 12v battery, I know the battery is quite FULL when the volt meter says 13volts. That is an 'active' volt reading WHILE I am pedaling the generator.
Or, as was stated above, you can get a CHARGE CONTROLLER like a C-35 or a C-40 (Xantrex) and it will know when the battery is fully charged automatically and a light comes on and then diverts to a DUMP load if you wish. They cost about $80-150 depending on the model.
Sorry I was overly negetive in my first response. I was in a hurry this morning--and I am not familiar with the high rpm pedal bike generators.
Keep in mind these are just my experiences, and I am no expert on anything.
I am just trying to help.
Maybe experienced others can comment about some of these things also.
Hang in there, keep learning, and always have fun.