Something to ask just to make sure: Do you already have a second controller for the wind? Since a solar controller is free to be open-circuit with no harm, it has to a specific "diversion" capability built into it, which is a different mode of operation because with wind it must not be open-circuit. Sorry, don't know the Blue Sky specs off hand, so if it has a diversion control mode let me know.
Since the solar panels have a nameplate rating of 300W total, then at 14V you are getting, say 20+ Amps on a cold sunny day. It sounds like you're already using the MPPT controller up to its potential and a separate controller for the wind is in order.
Connecting the turbines directly to the batteries is the right way to do it. The use of a dedicated wind controller means that it is in charge of the diversion control, leaving the solar controller to do its own pulse-width modulation thing on a separate solar circuit. The diversion control monitors battery voltage and sheds current through the dump load when the voltage rises above the threshold.
Depending on how you set them, you can get into trouble if suddenly it becomes possible to shed BOTH the solar current and the wind current. This can happen if, for example, the solar controller's threshold is higher than the wind controller. The solar controller is still delivering electricity to the batteries (it thinks they aren't full yet) but as fast as it comes in, the wind controller dumps it out (it thinks they are full). If the wind is blowing, and the wind controller is only sized to dump the wind load, then it could be overloaded.
Set the wind diversion controller's dump voltage higher than the solar controller, and as already suggested, use a temperature correction on both to keep them in agreement. What kind of batteries do you have? That's important in deciding how high voltage is permitted.