If you connect a dc voltmeter to the battery it will read the battery voltage.
At cut in current will flow when the generator voltage exceeds the battery voltage. If the battery is fully charged and not on load then it may take about 28v to start charging. If the battery is low and on load then you may see current from perhaps 22v.
If you consider a battery that has been standing with no load for some time then its voltage will drop when on discharge and rise when on charge. If the current is small in relation to the battery size and the thing is in a reasonable state of charge then the variation when charging or discharging will not be that great.If it is near flat then the volts will drop rapidly as you add load. Similarly if it is fully charged then the voltage will rise rapidly with charging current.
If you look at a good battery site you will find charge and discharge curves of voltage against time.
Over the main part of the curve the charging part runs parallel with the discharge part but the charging condition will be at higher voltage. Towards the extremes the charging volts rise rapidly as you reach gassing point and similarly at the discharge end the voltage falls sharply below about 20% capacity. I don't have time to find and upload these curves, I have them in ancient books where people understood such things. I am sure they are on the web somewhere.
An analogue dc meter is quite handy to see at a glance if you are running flat or reaching full charge. It is not sufficiently accurate to determine state of charge but unless you know your battery and can leave it standing for hours I have no real faith in using volts as an indication of state of charge.
As to your question, yes the battery does clamp the volts but the clamp voltage depends on battery history and state of charge. under normal conditions when charging you can expect something between 24 and 28v. Below this you are either taking more than you are charging or the battery is flat. Above 28v you are reaching gassing point and unless you are equalising you need to cut the charge manually or with a charge controller. The best place to work with wind is in the well clamped bit.
Diverting excess charge is wasting wind power, better to use lots of load on those days and go easy with load on windless days. Man is more intelligent than a charge controller that can't alter your load patterns.
I hope this is what you were looking for, I didn't entirely follow the question.
Flux