Author Topic: Aluminum Wire  (Read 1274 times)

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Shadow

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Aluminum Wire
« on: September 14, 2005, 03:54:15 AM »
 I ran across a roll of Alcon AWG#4 300 volt wire, 2 insulated wires, one bare. I beleive its Aluminum or aluminum alloy. Its twisted wire as opposed to solid. I'm wondering if its suitable for use in my RE setup anywhere? How does it compare to copper? Would this carry 48 volt appropiatley? Seems like nice wire to work with, light, non corrosive,flexible.. What are the pros and cons?
« Last Edit: September 14, 2005, 03:54:15 AM by (unknown) »

georgeodjungle

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Re: Aluminum Wire
« Reply #1 on: September 13, 2005, 10:07:07 PM »
if you use aluminum wire, it does crode there's a grease you use at the cennections to prevent that.

and you'll have to tighten them once in a wile.

others here would know how many amps and runs.
« Last Edit: September 13, 2005, 10:07:07 PM by (unknown) »

pyrocasto

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Re: Aluminum Wire
« Reply #2 on: September 14, 2005, 12:29:09 AM »
Aluminum wire works fine for conducting, it's just not as good as copper. I'll be using aluminum wire for my runs most likely, as I can get it dirt cheap probably and I cant copper. If I can get double the aluminum wire for 1/4 the copper price I'd say that's pretty good.


Here's ya a line loss calculator that has both copper and aluminum options to give you something to play with: http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm


Just scroll down a bit, it's there. ;-)

« Last Edit: September 14, 2005, 12:29:09 AM by (unknown) »

ghurd

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Re: Aluminum Wire
« Reply #3 on: September 14, 2005, 07:13:57 AM »
The common grease brand name is "OxGaurd"

in a little tube at Lowe's, Home Depot, etc.
« Last Edit: September 14, 2005, 07:13:57 AM by (unknown) »
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DanG

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Re: Aluminum Wire
« Reply #4 on: September 14, 2005, 07:36:25 AM »
300V rated insulation would work, yes - but 600V and 90°C are NEC Code. The one example I know of where 300V can be used w/ 120VAC is aerial outdoor runs as Code calls for 300V insulation at cable supports. Personally I'd try to keep it all outside the residence or workshop - switch to 600V at the 1st collection - control box...
« Last Edit: September 14, 2005, 07:36:25 AM by (unknown) »

Shadow

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Re: Aluminum Wire
« Reply #5 on: September 14, 2005, 07:41:15 AM »
After some searching, I found this http://www.fieldlines.com/story/2004/8/5/8454/15025 a few more interesting things to consider.
« Last Edit: September 14, 2005, 07:41:15 AM by (unknown) »

crashk6

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Re: Aluminum Wire
« Reply #6 on: September 14, 2005, 12:30:22 PM »
Ah.. you've got yourself a nice roll of aerial cable, it's the very cable the utility company uses from the transformer up to your house. Most all of the aerials for this purpose are aluminum these days due to cost and physical weight of such hefty wire, this stuff is perfectly appropriate to use from your panels or genny back to your house, shop, or power shed.


It will carry 48 volts just fine. You will need to use one size larger aluminum cable than you would copper because aluminum has higher resistance due to its lower electron velocity. That #4 you have will be good to about 50 - 55 amps, for runs over 100 - 120 feet keep it just under 50 amps for a little thermal head room at your splices.


Do NOT use aluminum wire in the house... cats and copper make good indoor pets, cattle and aluminum do not!


YES, aluminum does corode, corroded aluminum has a fine aluminum oxide powder covering it... if your not making a connection on a given area leave the thin layer of corrosion in place, it will protect from further corrosion... aluminum is a little unusual in that respect.


Treat it like the power company, use wedge clamps on the bare conductor and loop the bale over a solidly anchored insulator. Make your terminations and transition to copper outside, use a separating split bolt and dope it with NOALOX or similar compound (dope the copper too in a transition joint), tighten down, wipe excess compound off the insulation and wrap the joint in cloth or UV stabilized plastic electricians tape.  The split bolts needs to be rated for mixed copper/aluminum connections.. basically meaning it won't expand and contract to much with thermal changes.


Just take these steps and aluminum wire can be a cost saving friend for those long runs back to the battery.

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crashK6

« Last Edit: September 14, 2005, 12:30:22 PM by (unknown) »