Author Topic: New Tower From Scratch (part one)  (Read 9887 times)

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Hilltopgrange

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New Tower From Scratch (part one)
« on: July 14, 2010, 08:53:19 PM »
New Tower From Scratch (part one)

Its summer according to the calender and the rain is bouncing of the slates and sunshine is but a distant memory! at least it is windy.

 Since the start of spring I have been chomping at the bit to get started on my latest project, anew tower for the 12ft turbine but first she who must be obeyed had a long todo list for me so the last 4 weeks have been spent cutting grass, rotovating, fencing, rotovating, cutting hedges, rotovating by which time the darn grass has grown again! groan did I mention the rotovating.
 but now its my time!

First job on MY todo list is a new tower for the 12 footer, I have been planing this tower since last summer and spent most of the winter at the drawing board designing it and working out the fine detail. The tower will be triangular lattice built in 10ft sections, all steel and welded construction. Initially this tower will be 50ft and will be home to my 12ft turbine but I will be adding more sections to it and building another 16ft turbine in the future. So first I ordered the steel, 6 off 1.5in od tube 20ft lengths 3 off 1.25 box section 20ft lengths, 8 off .5in re-bar the stub mast is 4in tube x 12ftI already had this pipe left over from the 16 footer. I got a good deal on the steel tube for the up-rights but could only get them already galvanised, plain steel was much more expensive go figure! no big problem just means grinding it off before welding and plenty of ventilation.

First job was to cut all the components to length, accuracy is critical if this is going to work so I clamped the cutoff saw to the bench and set up an end stop to save time measuring each component. The six 1.5in uprights were cut to exactly 10ft each and set aside.

The horizontal cross-members are cut from the 1.25in box section, there are 15 cross-members in each 10ft section five on each face 60 in total and each would involve several machining steps. First step is to cut all 60 cross-members square @ 16in and then de-burr and stack them. Step two is to drill a 10mm hole through the centre of each cross-member with the vertical drill, I set up a fence and end stop on the drill table to save measuring each one and to ensure they where all identical. Step three was to cut a curve on the end of each member to match the diameter of the upright. The cut was made with a hole saw in the vertical drill and a little jig I made up to ensure each cut was identical.




The 10mm hole in each member is dropped over the 10mm stud in the jig and sits snug against the fence of the jig, the hole saw then cuts the require curve, the member is then lifted and rotated 180 degrees and cut again, this is the main purpose of the holes drilled earlier. This method again ensures they are all identical, repeat 120 times or until you fall asleep. I made 10 extra while the jig was in place in case of mishaps, a final de-bur with the grinder and we are now ready to start building. At this point I have spent Two days just cutting and pre-ping the components






Assembly begins
After a major clean up in the workshop, you wouldn't believe the amount of swarf produced to get to this point



The first two up-rights are laid on the bench against a stop to keep them level and square, the five cross members are set in place and marked around, these areas are then ground clean.
Plain steel tube would have saved this step.




The members are then replaced and squared and tacked in place with a mig welder.




The third upright can now be set in place on its cross members, marked, ground clean and again tacked.



One final check that all is true and square and then welded up. I should add the cross members at each end are mitred to fit in line but the three members between are staggered. Each welded seam is double seam welded all the way around, I normally would use 1mm mig wire for a job like this but my supplier on had .8 in stock so thats what I used. It is important not to weld to much in any area at once otherwise the heat will warp and twist it like a corkscrew.

To be continued... see part two here
http://fieldlines.com/board/index.php/topic,143822.msg968665/topicseen.html#msg968665

Russell
« Last Edit: July 14, 2010, 09:05:19 PM by Hilltopgrange »
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Hilltopgrange

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New Tower From Scratch (part two)
« Reply #1 on: July 14, 2010, 09:03:32 PM »
Following on from part one here
http://fieldlines.com/board/index.php/topic,143821.msg968663/topicseen.html#msg968663


Each section has two tight fitting pipes inserted into the leg ends like a dowel, its mate has a single dowel, the three dowels ensure the sections only fit together in one position. the dowels also differ in length by 1-2 inches this to make aligning them easier as only one dowel at a time has to be inserted.  The sections are the pulled together and three bolts fitted through the cross members. Now is when you see if the accuracy has been worth the effort! the bolt holes all aligned perfectly. This is tricky to explain so hopefully the next pix will help.




Next job is to fit the diagonal braces cut from the 1/2 re-bar and again double welded in place. The cross bracing incorporates a ladder on one side and is very securely welded. The cross members form every other step in the ladder, the diagonal braces all go the same direction to leave foot room on the ladder rungs zig-zagging would have partially obstructed the rung.

Thats the first section completed just three more to do! each section is basically identical except for the hinge on the bottom and the stub mast on top. Assembly of each section is pretty quick and only takes a couple of hours.



The base of the tower is a simple pipe in pipe type hinge, I took a pic but seem to have lost it!

The stub mast is 4in dia x 12ft long and is inserted 2ft into the top mast section, centred and securely welded in place. At this point I also made and fitted guy anchor points from re-bar.



Thats about it just needs cleaned,de-burred and painted, this is the bit I hate, I detest painting but it had to be done.








Job done all painted up and prettyfied! and straight as a die!

So there you go thats how I did it, all in from the steel being carried into the workshop until it was carried out again with its paint dry was four days not to bad.

This is the forth lattice tower I have built over the years, the others were for ham radio antenna and nowhere nearly as stiff as this one has turned out. Previous towers I built in 20ft sections in a 20ft jig and without cross-members, building the jig was as much work as the tower. The use of the cross-members saves building a huge jig and the 10ft sections are a lot easier to handle. Next year I will be extending this tower by at least another 20ft and it will be pretty easy to reach for the jigs and just make another two sections

Total cost for this tower inc steel,mig wire, paint and cutting disc etc is just under £200 ($400)

Next job is to fit the tower to its base and raise it, I ordered a new winch a few weeks ago and it finally arrived it is 12v 12000lb and will live on the front of my old Land Rover Defender but I need to build and reinforce the bumper and chassis. I could just use the Land Rover in 1st low but I like the control of a winch plus this winch has a radio remote control to keep me out of the kill zone, we will see soon how it works out. The winch bumper I built for it took 6 days to complete, I thought at the start a couple of hours would do it lol. Heres one last pic of the winch on my old Land Rover, Defender she is 19 this year and still going strong.


 
So thats another project done and dusted, next task is to lower the 10ft turbine and tower and replace the tower with this one and my 12ft turbine. The 10ft machine and tower have been promised to my wife, she wants a couple of lights and a radio in the poly-tunnel, a small water feature pump and some led garden lights. Thats if it ever stops raining!

Was it worth the effort? I think so but I will let you all decide that for yourselves!

Russell

I merged your two story's into one what JW meant when he told you 10 photos per post was ten photos per actual post not per thread you can post a story with 10 photos then post a comment below it with 10 more if need be. so that is what i made your two separate threads into just so the two halves do not get lost from each other with time.
Kurt
« Last Edit: July 15, 2010, 04:29:47 PM by kurt »
How many windmills do I have to build to become a windmillologist?

Harold in CR

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Re: New Tower From Scratch (part two)
« Reply #2 on: July 14, 2010, 09:15:56 PM »

 Nicely done. !!!

freejuice

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Re: New Tower From Scratch (part two)
« Reply #3 on: July 14, 2010, 09:18:45 PM »
Russell,
 Fantastic job! it appears to be about 50 feet or so tall.
A few questions: How much do you think it weighs and how long is your gin pole?
 All the best,
 Gavin

Hilltopgrange

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Re: New Tower From Scratch (part two)
« Reply #4 on: July 14, 2010, 09:22:36 PM »
Thanks Harold ;D
How many windmills do I have to build to become a windmillologist?

Hilltopgrange

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Re: New Tower From Scratch (part two)
« Reply #5 on: July 14, 2010, 10:26:27 PM »
Hi Gavin,thanks for the comments, the tower is indeed 50ft. The gin pole is 20ft, the weight of each section I would guess at about 40-50kgs. I can easily lift a section onto the bench on my own, the top section however is 20ft and heavier and I need help moving it about.
Thanks again Russell
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Dave B

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Re: New Tower From Scratch (part two)
« Reply #6 on: July 14, 2010, 10:42:55 PM »
Russell,
 
 Great job ! I am certain there will be nothing scarey about the rest of your project and installation either. I get the shakes at some of what I see here at times. #1 rule, stay out of the kill zone !!!! #2 rule should be required reading of tower accidents. Think and be safe everyone. Very nice project.  Dave B.
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Hilltopgrange

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Re: New Tower From Scratch (part two)
« Reply #7 on: July 14, 2010, 11:13:35 PM »
Hi Dave thanks

Totally agree safety to often overlooked and with these sorts weights and forces you only get one chance!

Russell
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tecker

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Re: New Tower From Scratch (part two)
« Reply #8 on: July 15, 2010, 06:26:37 AM »
Nice galvanize welds .Cover Gas?

SparWeb

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Re: New Tower From Scratch (part two)
« Reply #9 on: July 15, 2010, 11:19:07 AM »
Quote
Was it worth the effort? I think so but I will let you all decide that for yourselves!

Yes!  Yes!  And some great ideas that will be carefully saved in the back of my mind for later.  Thank you.
No one believes the theory except the one who developed it. Everyone believes the experiment except the one who ran it.
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Hilltopgrange

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Re: New Tower From Scratch (part one)
« Reply #10 on: July 15, 2010, 08:44:53 PM »
Hi Tecker, Thanks ;D I use CO2 its the only gas I can source locally not ideal but it works for me, it would be nice to get Argon but it would mean a 120 mile round trip. Its the price you have to pay for living in the sticks.

Russell
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Hilltopgrange

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Re: New Tower From Scratch (part one)
« Reply #11 on: July 15, 2010, 08:57:59 PM »
Hi Sparweb, glad it was of interest to you.

Russell
How many windmills do I have to build to become a windmillologist?

Hilltopgrange

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Re: New Tower From Scratch (part one)
« Reply #12 on: July 15, 2010, 09:01:57 PM »
Hi Kurt, my fault I misunderstood JW. Thanks for fixing it and putting me straight.

Russell
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SparWeb

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Re: New Tower From Scratch (part one)
« Reply #13 on: July 15, 2010, 10:10:52 PM »
Wow - on the first pass looking at the pix I didn't notice the horizontal cross-members are tube.  Kudos on going the extra mile.  It doubles the welding work but the stiffness of the structure goes up greatly, too.  Obviously an advantage you recognized, too.
No one believes the theory except the one who developed it. Everyone believes the experiment except the one who ran it.
System spec: 135w BP multicrystalline panels, Xantrex C40, DIY 10ft (3m) diameter wind turbine, Tri-Star TS60, 800AH x 24V AGM Battery, Xantrex SW4024
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Hilltopgrange

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Re: New Tower From Scratch (part one)
« Reply #14 on: July 15, 2010, 10:55:09 PM »
I have built a few latice towers in the past with just the diagonals and no crossmembers. The snag with that type is you need to build a full size jig to keep the uprights straight and true. The accurately cut cross members act like a jig in keeping everything true. The assembly of each section is surprisingly fast and literally only takes a few minutes. The welding up takes a lot longer even with a mig welder, the fact I was forced to use .8 wire instead of 1.0 or 1.5 didn't help either. I would hate to have been restricted to a stick welder on this job, It would take forever and a day.

The finished sections are very stiff, I would happily drive my Land Rover over them. All in all it was an enjoyable build apart from the painting! I detest painting full stop lol

Russell
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scoraigwind

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Re: New Tower From Scratch (part one)
« Reply #15 on: July 16, 2010, 03:36:46 AM »
It's very beautiful.  My only puzzlement is why you put guys on it.  If you are going to use guys then why not just use 4 inch pipe all the way up? 

The weakest point is where the 4 inch pipe joins the guyed top of the tower. 

I would have put the guys closer to the tips of the blades since the top guy attachment is where you usually get the most bending stress and that stress depends on the distance of the blade hub above the guy fixing.

Maybe there's something I don't understand here.
Hugh Piggott scoraigwind.co.uk

freejuice

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Re: New Tower From Scratch (part one)
« Reply #16 on: July 16, 2010, 05:01:42 AM »
Russell,
 Thanks for the information! I was asking because I have a four inch tower guyed in three places. However I would like to put my 17 footer on it....from what things appear the stresses from wind load will be substantial, so some weeks ago I bought some galavanized pipe ( about the same size you have there). Then I hit up this forum for some ideas to encase my 4 inch pipe in a "box or triangle like you have there. Groan...its reverse engineering on my part, if I had I the galvanized pipe before the 4 inch tower was built I would've had a lattice work like yours but of course not as nice.....I have the "ol' buzz box" type stick welder. :)

However I have 1/2 cable for the upper guys, (got it real cheap, couldnt pass up the deal)  so essentially its overkill, but after reading what Mr. Piggott said, I'm wondering if 1/2 cable with 4 inch pipe would be good enough at 60 feet, but what "spooks" me in this thought is the loads the 17'er will see. If I encase the current 4 inch tower in lattice work like yours and add the 1/2 cable, it might could end up being robust enough to be a launch platform for a NASA saturn 5 rocket, but I also really hate the idea of burning up at least 25-30 lbs of welding rods with that stick welder!

 I'm really impressed by that tower of yours....simply green with envy :D
 All the best,
 Gavin

Hilltopgrange

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Re: New Tower From Scratch (part one)
« Reply #17 on: July 16, 2010, 08:02:07 AM »
Hi Hugh,
               I like to be able to climb my towers and lattice is much easier to climb lol I'm in a high wind area and it can take weeks waiting for a calm day to tilt a tower down for repair or maintenance, sometimes 5 minutes up top can sort a problem.
               
The tower in its present form is going to be home to my 12 footer but this is only temporary as I will be adding another 20ft to it and another 16ft machine on top next year.

I have a sliding collar with guy points that will be just bellow the blade tips of the 12ft turbine, its not shown in the pics. When the bigger machine is fitted the stub will be shortened and reinforced or replaced with heavier tube if I can get it, the top guy anchors shown will then be used.

I toyed with building a 4in pipe tower but it is very expensive and too light for a 16 footer in my opinion. My other 16ft machine is on a 4in stub with guys as close to the blade tips as I dare and it still flexes in high winds and needs to be beefed up a bit, its on my todo list!
I priced 6in tube but it was going to be £250 per 20ft length. The other big reason for the 10ft lattice sections is weight, I am an “ownsome” builder and need to be able to handle the sections on my own.

 I also just like the look of a lattice tower, they just tick all the boxes for me!
 A pipe tower would have been a lot easier to build no doubt, but when did I ever do anything the easy way! lol

Thanks for your input
Regards Russell





How many windmills do I have to build to become a windmillologist?

Hilltopgrange

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Re: New Tower From Scratch (part one)
« Reply #18 on: July 16, 2010, 08:32:53 AM »
Hi Gavin
              personally I think 4in is a bit light for 17ft, my 16ft machine is on a 4in stub and flexes a bit to much in high winds and worries me some!

The stick welder would no doubt do your job but it would be a long and tedious job not to mention the bucket full of rods and 10 chipping hammers for all that slag . I used a full 7kg roll of 0.8 mig wire. If you decide to build a lattice tower I would strongly re comend investing in a good mig welder.

Thanks for the nice comments  ;D
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frepdx

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Re: New Tower From Scratch (part two)
« Reply #19 on: July 16, 2010, 01:36:40 PM »
That looks like a real nice job.

How did you decide on the cross bracing details (the rebar strips that are kind of a left handed spiral, thumb point up. and the shorter strips on one side)?

Hilltopgrange

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Re: New Tower From Scratch (part one)
« Reply #20 on: July 16, 2010, 06:39:19 PM »
Hi frepdx
               There are five box section cross members on each side of each section, the re-bar is fitted diagonally between each cross member and the next one effectively dividing it into two right angle triangles. I kept running all the same direction to enable one side to be used as a ladder, if I had zig zagged them the diagonals would have obstructed the foot space on the rungs. The little pic bellow should explain it better.



The red lines are the box section cross members, the blue lines represent the re-bar diagonals and the green lines are the short re-bar steps.

The red cross members form every other rung of the ladder with the rungs in between formed from the short length of re-bar. in A the re-bar zig zags and the ladder will not work, where as in B the red cross members are the rungs for your right foot and the green re-bars are the rungs for your left foot.

I don't think it matters whether you zig zag or keep them all the same as far as strength is concerned as both ways divide the area into two right angle triangles, though I could be wrong! but thats how and why I did it this way.

Regards Russell
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SparWeb

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Re: New Tower From Scratch (part one)
« Reply #21 on: July 21, 2010, 01:11:50 AM »
Well,

If you want a PURE truss, you have to do it differently.  But the way you have your diagonals and intermediate supports, you probably won't have much trouble.  I didn't think it was worth mentioning before.

For a truly truss-like structure, every space must be a triangle.  No exceptions.  Every member must meet at an intersection with at least 2 other members, except the ends where the loads are applied.

The tiny rungs will provide some stability to the intermediate diagonals, as you desired, but they break away from the idealization of the truss.  If a diagonal in compression starts pushing on the rung, the rung can only give it stability by applying a "kick" load to the main vertical member.  The kick load weakens the main leg's compressive strength.  The little stabilizer rung should be attached at the opposize horizontal-to-vertical member joint.  In your tower, that rung forces the vertical leg to act like a beam to resist bending under the kick load.  Fortunately for you those legs are pretty beefy so this keeps you out of trouble.

Again, this is the theory of truss structures, and in practical terms you may only lose a few percent of the ultimate strength due to the shortcut.  An engineer at the town planning office could reject it for this reason.  Perhaps you don't need such permits (I don't either).
No one believes the theory except the one who developed it. Everyone believes the experiment except the one who ran it.
System spec: 135w BP multicrystalline panels, Xantrex C40, DIY 10ft (3m) diameter wind turbine, Tri-Star TS60, 800AH x 24V AGM Battery, Xantrex SW4024
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Hilltopgrange

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Re: New Tower From Scratch (part one)
« Reply #22 on: July 21, 2010, 07:35:09 PM »
Hi Sparweb,
                    thanks for the info its funny how the little details can bite you lol. The tower this is replacing is an aluminium lattice type that is bolted together and is very flimsy in comparison, this one is very stiff even though it is 20ft longer so hopefully it will be ok.

No worries here with permits, restrictions or other bovine exhaust emissions ! one concern I often have though is with military helicopters we often get them landing on our land to drop or lift a patrol. The snag is they usually do this at night with no lights! I presume they have IR as they haven't hit my towers yet but It scares the living daylights out of us and our livestock.

I hope to have this tower up in the next couple of weeks weather permitting, today was as close to flat calm as we get with winds around 8mph, but we had heavy thunder with torrential rain the next few days are to be dry but windy! just cant win lol.

Thanks again for the heads up, I will keep an eye on it and see what happens.

Regards Russell
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SparWeb

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Re: New Tower From Scratch (part one)
« Reply #23 on: July 22, 2010, 12:24:08 AM »
Blimey!
Didn't know you lived in a war zone.

Not only are the military heli's around here are all equipped with night-vision, but they have nasty wire-strike blades bristling all over that would snip your wooden blades like a hot knife through butter.

Have you considered a light?  Nah forget that nobody wants a stupid light on their tower.  Drives the neighbours against you too.  Perhaps call the civil aviation authorities to let them know your towers are there - probably under the 100 meter lighting and visibility requirements but at least you could get yourself on the map!  In a few years' time maybe the jar heads would notice the feature on the map, too.
No one believes the theory except the one who developed it. Everyone believes the experiment except the one who ran it.
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oztules

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Re: New Tower From Scratch (part one)
« Reply #24 on: July 22, 2010, 03:33:43 AM »
Nice work .

 It looks so good I want to build one..... except I can't rustle up a good reason too do so. (was given 24 meters of 8" heavy wall tube.... not as pretty, but free)

Thanks for the share anyway.


............oztules
Flinders Island Australia

Hilltopgrange

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Re: New Tower From Scratch (part one)
« Reply #25 on: July 22, 2010, 05:51:42 PM »
Thanks oz glad it was of interest to you.
Before I built this I seen an ad in the local free ads paper for "6 inch pipe free to take away"! happy days says I and off I went complete with a large trailer I borrowed, when I got there I discovered it was 6 lengths of 1 inch pipe! I was fit to strangle him lol I took it anyway as it was free and to save face :-[ That's the sort of luck I have.
Regards Russell
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Hilltopgrange

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Re: New Tower From Scratch (part one)
« Reply #26 on: July 22, 2010, 07:48:57 PM »
Blimey!
Didn't know you lived in a war zone.

No not quite a war zone but it wasn't far off it for about 30 years, now thankfully its pretty quiet most of the time, although both sides still knock hell out of each other from time to time.


I did have lights on the first tower way back when the rectifier was up top, it was easy take of the dc to run it but I hated wasting power, I suppose I could fit a solar garden type light cheap and cheerfull.

Russell
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ghurd

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Re: New Tower From Scratch (part one)
« Reply #27 on: July 23, 2010, 08:28:13 AM »
"they usually do this at night with no lights! "
I would feel better with lights!

It would not take much to make it look like a beacon through night vision.

Could run telephone wire to the tower to supply a few 20 degree LEDs or LED arrays.
Maybe 3 series arrays spaced at 120 degrees, 5 meters from the tower, shining up to the alternator and blades.
Could do it with only 3 or 5ma total draw.

I know their night vision is better than any of my units, and that would be bright as heck through any of mine.
G-
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Hilltopgrange

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Re: New Tower From Scratch (part one)
« Reply #28 on: July 23, 2010, 05:17:46 PM »
Hi ghurd that sounds like a workable solution, I even have a roll of telcom wire at hand. I never thought about mounting them below the turbine shinning up. 

Thanks Russell
How many windmills do I have to build to become a windmillologist?