I don't really understand what you are saying.
"I had the - lead hooked up and momentarily touched the + lead to the negative."
Was the + connected to the + terminal when it touched the negative? Then the load fet is blown.
There is a chance the whole thing is blown.
Shorting them is always bad. They are very sensitive to shorting. It is the price you pay for a controller that works great.
Myself, I avoid the LVD on that series of controllers, except for special circumstances.
Why bother with LVD? The fridge bulb is LED and is only on when the door is open, which is certainly not going to run down golf cart batteries.
If the radio is on 24/7 as a deterent or something, then the battery is probably being ruined anyway because the LVD is keeping the battery lower than it should be kept (unless the solar is far more than enough, in which case the LVD is not needed).
"I haven't been back to the cabin yet "
If the battery has NOT been loaded for a few days, the voltage should be up past 12.5V if the controller is working.
If the battery has NOT been loaded for a few days, and the voltage is down to like 10V or less, the controller is toast.
If the sun is out and the controller is pretty warm (not exactly hot, but very noticably Much MUCH warmer than the surroundings), then the controller is toast.
If it made the tinyest of sparks between + and - during the reconnection, the controller is probably toast.
Last- Don't ask me how I know 100 ways to ruin a SS controller in a half a millisecond.
G-