Chris - I think it would be fun, and easy for you to finish that up (looks like you've basically got it done) - put some oil in it, spin it at different rpm/measure foot pounds and find out just how much power is required to turn it ~ especially at lower rpm (what you'd see in perhaps 7-12mph winds).
Dan, I put two 11" diameter rotors on it today, with magnets installed, and the flywheel effect from the rotors is quite significant. I ran it up to about 1,800 rpm (the mags are pinned) and when I took the drill off the input shaft it coasted for almost a minute before it came to a stop. It takes a considerable amount of torque to accelerate it due to the mass of the generator rotors gaining energy, but once spinning at a certain speed the amount of torque required to keep it spinning at that speed is not measurable with the equipment I have - especially at the 400 or so rpm the input shaft will run at, max. At slow speeds of around 150-160 rpm (10-12 mph wind) it would take very accurate equipment to measure the input torque and I haven't come up with a good idea on how to build anything accurate enough to measure it.
When I first put it together it was a bit "draggy" because of new bearings and the seals cause a lot of friction. After the first run at 1,800 rpm the seals broke in and it spins freely. I was going to remove the seals from the bearings, just leaving the outer seal in place on the input and output bearings, and lubricate the bearings with the oil bath. But that would require additional work to build oil channels to catch throwoff from the chain and channel it to each bearing for proper lubrication. Plus it would require more oil in the sump.
After the bearings broke in I've decided to leave the seals in the bearings, as ball bearings are very low friction in the first place, and secondly I can run only enough oil in the sump for the bottom of the chain to barely dip in it to keep the chain and sprockets wet. I'm going to use a synthetic SAE 10 hydraulic fluid for lubricant in it, which flows freely even in -40 degree weather.
It's a simple unit and there's not much more to test on it. It'll work fine. What I'm more interested in finding out is how the turbine reacts spinning the mass of the generator at high speed. Typically, the wind is never constant. A 12 mph average wind maybe varies from 8 to 15 and it probably spends more time at 8-10 than it does at 15. With a direct drive turbine, when a gust hits, the turbine quickly accelerates and puts out more power, even if for a brief time. Then the gust dies out and the power output drops. The amount of power the turbine produces in kWh, or amp-hours, adds up from the peaks of the gusts and the most constant "push" from the lower wind speeds.
With this turbine, say the wind is blowing at 10 mph and there's a gust to 15. Based on "feel", running the transmission with real rotors and a hand drill, I know it will take longer for the machine to accelerate simply because of the amount of energy that has to be transferred to the generator rotor mass that spinning at 2.14x what it is with a direct drive. Once that energy is stored in those rotors, it seems to transfer very well thru the gear reduction to the input shaft to keep the input shaft spinning. So when the wind dies out I expect that the turbine rotor rpm will not drop as fast as a direct drive.
The above is based on gut instinct of what it SHOULD do - the real story will be learned when it flies to see how it affects that. I have a feeling that the generator rotors will end up being too heavy and that a smaller, more compact 8" diameter 8 pole 6 coil generator might work better.
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Chris