Author Topic: Primitive (aka CHEAP) buck converter for solar...  (Read 37803 times)

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DamonHD

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Re: Primitive (aka CHEAP) buck converter for solar...
« Reply #33 on: December 15, 2010, 01:24:07 PM »
The SheevaPlug has been having problems with its supply caps not having a high-enough ripple rating, and popping.

It's a real issue.

Rgds

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joestue

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Re: Primitive (aka CHEAP) buck converter for solar...
« Reply #34 on: December 15, 2010, 02:08:43 PM »
ah, bad caps..

there is a solution.. run two or more buck regulators out of phase, cuts the ripple down accordingly, or monitor the temperature rise of the capacitor in circuit and add more until its acceptable..

anyway, you said you can hear the toroid.. two reasons.
one, its saturating only when the pwm is more than a certain percentage/current is higher than x, and this happens say 5,000 times a second, even though the main frequency is say 25Khz.. -it needs more compensation. in this case you may not be able to get rid of it, due to the fact you're using a 555 to control it...
or you're hearing the main switching freq, or a resonance of the physical inductor.

in any case, the series inductance of the wires between the capacitors and the buck regulator can cause a lot of problems..
with only a few amps, the capacitors you have are certainly enough.. but you really need an oscope to see what's going on with your circuit.
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Madscientist267

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Re: Primitive (aka CHEAP) buck converter for solar...
« Reply #35 on: December 15, 2010, 02:42:27 PM »
Well, for one, its an MC34063, not a 555. This chip is designed for 'simple-as-it-gets' buck circuitry. A 555 would require a lot more external components.

Second, It's not an audible whine, it's chaos -

From http://www.smpstech.com/chaosbib.htm :

A switching converter with an LC output filter behaves as a loose-tolerance voltage-controlled current source if each switch closure is ended when switch current reaches an adjustable threshold. This converter is then combined with an external feedback to produce a precise output voltage. By generating a fixed voltage with a current source in this manner, the converter has many advantages including continuous protection of the switches, stable and equal load sharing when several converters are operated in parallel, inherent overload protection, automatic switch symmetry correction, and fast system response. (AUTHOR ABSTRACT) Discusses instability in constant frequency current-threshold controlled circuits for duty ratios over 50%. Chaos is implied (raucous whine) although not mentioned. Cure is decreasing magnetizing inductance or adding a ramp. (JF) Bell Laboratories, Naperville, IL. 7 pages, 10 figures, no tables, no equations, 3 references.

It's very random in nature, and sounds like white noise imposed on the principal frequency, but the pitch changes randomly and irratically. Many people describe it as the sound of frying bacon, which I can see why, but only without the loud pops, and there IS an audible principal.

But what is this 'ramp'?

I also was looking into changing the principal frequency to match the resonance of the toroid, but haven't made it that far yet, and I don't know if I will find out with this version because I haven't been able to poke around and find the popped component that made it die. :(

And last but not least, I agree that the ripple currents are ultimately at fault, but in the biz, it's a finger pointing game. The designers say its a problem involving a bad batch of electrolyte, and the cap manufacturers claim its the ripple currents. I say it's the ripple current, but thats just me.

Steve
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joestue

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Re: Primitive (aka CHEAP) buck converter for solar...
« Reply #36 on: December 15, 2010, 02:58:54 PM »
my bad, thought you were still using a 555...

oh yeah.. google "ramp compensation"... if you want to make your head explode that is.


a lot of people tend to take datasheets as written in blood or something..
when one company can make them for half price.. you have to do your research. 

at "max" ratings, electrolytic capacitor life time is usually measured in quadruple digit hours... that's about a year or less.
an old server board from '98 is still working strong for me, because they used 5$ more caps than was necessary.
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commanda

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Re: Primitive (aka CHEAP) buck converter for solar...
« Reply #37 on: December 16, 2010, 01:00:20 AM »
Steve,

Consider this.

Low side switching. No need for a separate high side driver.
MC34063 output switches to ground, turning the fet off.
Effectively, a high input turns the pwm down, so the fet is on more.



I'm building a prototype on veroboard now.

Amanda

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Re: Primitive (aka CHEAP) buck converter for solar...
« Reply #38 on: December 16, 2010, 11:22:47 AM »
Just remember that you loose the system common.  Output can still be monitored using an optp isolator.  In that case you would want to use those dastardly zeners  or a LM314 often found in an old computer power supply.  The transformer makes a great high power inductor.

Madscientist267

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Re: Primitive (aka CHEAP) buck converter for solar...
« Reply #39 on: December 16, 2010, 02:22:24 PM »
Cool, thanks for the suggestions. I still have 2 virgin 34063 bucks that I definitely intend to play with, but for my version 2.0, I'm using an KA3525, in a push pull 'flyback'ish way, with isolated output.

The good news is, i won't need feedback from the output, since I'm tracking the input.

Only reasoning for this is, they are for the most part already assembled, and I have a ton of them (primary drive for old POS UPS units)... They actually use 4 44Ns, 2 on each side.

Turns out, if saturation was a problem in 1.0, there is an inductor about 1.5x the size of the one I was using in 1.0, right there on the other side of the UPS board. Just have to wind the secondary! :)

I'll keep all of this in mind as I'm going. I really appreciate all of your help. Thanks goes out to everyone that has thrown even just 2c at this! It inspired me to even make my 1st donation to the board, something I generally don't do, but this site is an invaluable resource to me, and I'd be pretty lost without it. I feel I owe at least that much back to the community, because I can't do it the other way (I am an idiot compared to some of the more seasoned veterans!)  ;D

Steve
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commanda

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Re: Primitive (aka CHEAP) buck converter for solar...
« Reply #40 on: December 16, 2010, 02:35:26 PM »
As a general rule, the push-pull forward converter is not as efficient as the buck converter.

Amanda

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Re: Primitive (aka CHEAP) buck converter for solar...
« Reply #41 on: December 16, 2010, 03:32:32 PM »
All inductor cores are not the same.  Speed kills! Consider going at a slower speed if you do not have the equipment to analyze performance.  Most home brew circuits suffer from transition losses.

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Knowledge comes from experience.
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Madscientist267

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Re: Primitive (aka CHEAP) buck converter for solar...
« Reply #42 on: December 16, 2010, 03:49:12 PM »
You mean like this? LOL



Forgot the feedback pot... got a little ahead of myself... no fuse... whoops...

You get the picture...   ;D

Replacing them now, and oh yeah... the FEEDBACK!!! LOL

Steve
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Madscientist267

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Re: Primitive (aka CHEAP) buck converter for solar...
« Reply #43 on: December 16, 2010, 09:56:56 PM »
GOT IT! LOL

FINALLY! After ~8 hours and 5 popped MOSFETs, 2 of which violently blew fire, this is the result:



VERY pleased with the performance so far with this unit. Have not done efficiency tests, but as wound, shows ~13V at the output (from a 12V 5AH SLA), and when the output is shorted, goes OVER 10A!!!

I'm good with this. I think it will work. Need to swap out one of the caps, as it is rated MUCH too low for the panels, but after that, it will just be a matter of adjusting the secondary turns, and running some real world tests (after doing some panel simulation first, it's currently snowing outside!)

If I can get 4A into a 12V SLA, I will be perfectly happy. Anything else on top of that will be bonus! :)

Steve
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Madscientist267

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Re: Primitive (aka CHEAP) buck converter for solar...
« Reply #44 on: December 16, 2010, 11:03:48 PM »
Ok so, here's the plan...

Screw the caps!



Now what? That should do it!  ;D

Steve

PS - And yes, I'm aware that they will need to be balanced... Got it covered! :)
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Madscientist267

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Re: Primitive (aka CHEAP) buck converter for solar...
« Reply #45 on: December 17, 2010, 12:23:01 AM »
And here she is complete. I don't believe the ESR phenomena will be a problem with this in play... Right?



Whatcha think?  ;D

Steve
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commanda

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Re: Primitive (aka CHEAP) buck converter for solar...
« Reply #46 on: December 17, 2010, 03:04:02 AM »

Whatcha think?  ;D

Steve

Sorry Steve, but I really think you've lost the plot.
I take it that board is the KA3525. So you're running a push-pull forward converter, but using a powdered iron toroid as a transformer.
And you're going to use a bank of Lithium batteries as your input capacitor.
You do know Lithium batteries explode violently and burn houses down when over-charged, right?

You were on the right track, talking about synchronous buck converters.

Amanda

Madscientist267

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Re: Primitive (aka CHEAP) buck converter for solar...
« Reply #47 on: December 17, 2010, 03:55:34 AM »
I know, but this just seems like where I'm going...


Operating voltage:

The lithiums will never overcharge, there are 10 of them, and with panel OTV being 39V, the resulting maximum voltage per cell (when balanced) is 3.9V/Cell, worst case.


Balancing:

The balancing resistors are 150R and will deplete the cells somewhat when the sun isn't shining, at a rate of something right around 25mA. When full, a cell disconnects, with the balancing resistor carrying the base charge current to the other cells. As they all fill up, they all become disconnected until they sense a load. Thus, their tendency to stay balanced will be fair to good. I am also looking at a nightmare-ish MOSFET bypass design that I ran across a while ago... Something else entirely...


Protection:

They will be augmented by the cap array to help divert spikes (that might damage the protection circuitry), and I wouldn't have tried this if they did not contain those internal upper limit cutoffs (trigger @ 4.3V) in each cell. So I'm not too worried about overcharging. The KA3525 also has a shutdown pin, which I intend to actuate by a design based on the lower cutoff for the lithium ions.


If there IS an explosion/fire:

They will never be inside, only part of a controller box that will be in close proximity to the panels (designing the system as a portable quick-deploy power source)... Even if one blows out and takes the pack, sure it will be pretty, but damage will be minimal. They will be 'off to the side' so property damage will be minimized.


Why the design has gone where it has:

As I said before, I'll be looking hard at various designs, including the one you suggested, but ATM this is where it's at. This design is actually the one that I am familiar with; I built the power supply for my car amp some time back which runs a 60W amp, and hasn't had the first hiccup yet. I wonder sometimes about frequency (osc/toroid) issues that arose during testing, but I was stressing it far beyond what it ever sees in the car, so it hasn't been a problem. That's another thread however (in fact I think I posted about it last year or so), and only applies to this in the sense that I was happy with the design. The major difference as I recall was that I believe that version is controlled by a TL494.


Why I can't do much else:

The parts are free, aplenty, and with the exception of the complexities of dealing with lithium ion cells, it's very simple in design. This was my primary goal. Taking it where it leads me. If I get a 1:2.5 or better current gain out of this, I will be satisfied completely, and might even put up the schematics with parts lists, maybe even a kit. :)


Why I'm just appending the ongoing thread:

I haven't started a new thread because this one accurately shows the lineage of my thought process, as well as input from others. When I have a satisfactory design in use, I will terminate this thread and post a new one, or two or three... depends on what I come up with.


The final straw that led to all of this:

ATM, this is close to a synchronous supply, only with push/pull instead and a secondary. The boards that I have available pretty much dictated this, not so much my desires. I went to Radio Shack earlier to try and get a boost converter (for laptops) so that I could modify it and change it to a buck converter. What I walked out with looked promising (already in 'buck' configuration), but turned out to be a let down; a 317 with 4 voltage settings. I was irritated to say the least. Hence the heavy digging into what's available and free...  :-\


The very next move:

After initial balancing and testing/tweaking (balancing is running as I type), I am going to look into sensing the battery line and use that to kill the PWM as well, so I don't have to dump the surplus.


Steve
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joestue

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Re: Primitive (aka CHEAP) buck converter for solar...
« Reply #48 on: December 17, 2010, 06:49:52 PM »
The wires between the batteries you have now and the converter have more ESR than do a small handful of descent capacitors.

as far as free parts...i'd dig through craigslist and find some junk computers for free and scrap them...
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Madscientist267

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Re: Primitive (aka CHEAP) buck converter for solar...
« Reply #49 on: December 17, 2010, 07:11:11 PM »
I actually picked up a handful of 22uF 50V caps and plan to use them to 'bypass' the LiPo pack (right at the converter) rather than the previously built array. They are rated for use in PWM circuits, so collectively with the pack, everything should be good.

I have to physically isolate the batteries from the rest of everything, due to Amanda's point about the violence of pissy LiPo's when things go haywire. Even though collectively they won't be overcharged, it's possible that the weaker ones could be a little over exercised and degrade into violence at some point.

We will see about all of this, as the LiPo's and caps will be common to both design's prototyping... The winner with current boost ratios higher than 1:2.5 and efficiency of better than 75% will ultimately win.  ;)

Which brings me to my next post:
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Madscientist267

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Re: Primitive (aka CHEAP) buck converter for solar...
« Reply #50 on: December 17, 2010, 07:21:15 PM »
I think I'm going to fork this one right here, and take the two directions in independent threads to avoid confusion about the two designs.

For the true buck converter, see:

http://fieldlines.com/board/index.php/topic,144675.0.html

For the Push-Pull Forwarding Converter, see:

http://fieldlines.com/board/index.php/topic,144676.0.html

Steve
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