My modest windturbine

[shawn valpy]

Hi all I thought it was time for me to share my turbine I called it modest cos i have seen much bigger and much smaller, some will have seen it on a fourm closer to home.
Its wound for 24 volt and reaches 25 volts DC at 130 rpm it has sliprings and an adjustable mast offset blade diameter of 4 meters, I just have to get a on/off switch  and hinge my lattice tower for it to see some wind,
hope these pictures work ?
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[shawn valpy]

The mags are 50mm discs 15mm thick N52 neos x 24 and 9 coils each having 42 turns of 1.6 wire two in hand.
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Im not sure of the output im still a newby hence the adjustable offset if it gets hot i will increase the offset.

[wpowokal]

Your last pic confuses me with regard to the stator mounting but in any case all those nuts need lock nuts or Loctite or they will vibrate loose.

allan

[ruddycrazy]

Your last pic confuses me with regard to the stator mounting but in any case all those nuts need lock nuts or Loctite or they will vibrate loose.

allan

Not bad spotting there Allan I would second that motion and use nylock nuts on both sides of the stator. It can be easily done using the ol' term 'hot bolting' Just do one at a time and always have the other locked into position and it will be an easy task to put them on. Shawn with all that hard work you've done go that one extra step as the last you need is those bolts vibrating loose.

Cheers Bryan

P.S. It is good to see Allan can see after all that jungle juice already consumed..........

[shawn valpy]

Thanks Allen the trouble with the extra steel on the stattor is because of not keeping the wires tidy when poring my stattor causing me not able to drill mount holes were i want them without drilling through some of the wires! (newby) won't make that mistake again.
I have some threadlock (loctite) threadglue I thought this would do but if the genreral consensus is to use nylock nuts as well I will do this.

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and my blades on the front of my trusty old major for painting
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[wpowokal]

That's fair enough but if that block is steel and for that matter the bolts holding the stator then there is a possibility of the magnets reacting to it, ie without the stator wires connected to anything is it hard to turn at all.

It could be better to weld the block to the stator mounting block and pass the bolts right across.

I would use thread lock and nylox or double nuts, just from experience.

allan of the jungle under flood

[oztules]

Nice machine.

I don't see a problem with any of it. My experience is that the magnets concentrate all their flux inside the rotor plate area. Very very slight chance of interaction with the steel block.

I simply use super glue (1 drop) on each bolt/nut interface, and let it wick into the threads. It does not move again without serious persuasion ( read big spanners )

Keep us posted on your performance and of course pictures of the unit running if possible. (4meters is a good size. I have two of them)


Good work there



.......oztules

[shawn valpy]

There is no magnet (grab) towards the block the mill spins easy and completly free without load or connection.
Oztules I do like your mills and I think mine is similar to yours, I built my blades to your design with a chainsaw, but started with laminated wood, could not find any info on your stattor though (turns of wire and size) you are one of the good guys here that build good stuff ! simple for the masses to copy simple being the key word here, thankyou.
All that said now, you should already no the output my mill should do, I was going to ask you were it should start furling and be completly folded up this is important to me because my wind ether blows like he** or is  quite still.
I have a frend working on a controller for me it will log mill performance electronics are not my strong point.
I do need this mill to perform though i live off the grid and anything to keep the bank full is welcomed.