First test

[xxzxxz]

Hello.
I'm trying to build its first wind turbine.
This weekend I spent the first test of the prototype on the ground - a test for the overall health.
I appreciate your opinion, maybe some advice.

materials:
Rotor and stator (outer parts) - Steel 3 mm (laser cutting)
Rotor (filling windings) - Epoxy (glass fiber reinforced).
Shaft - hub of the rear wheel of the Hyundai magentis
Frame - Stand Regiment =)))) bought in the supermarket.

Problems:
1. Weight. - The total weight of over 25 kg. I would like to reduce it, but I do not quite understand how to do it. The only way - to cut the Epoxy, but I'm afraid that it will break (I was trying to make a very robust design)
2. Insufficient rigidity. How would all this be reinforced?
3. Blades.
I did the blade of pipe Sewage Overflow (drawn curve cut jigsaw). The problem is that I think the blades are too small, they are very weak wind capture. Maybe someone has a better solution?

ps. I'm sorry for how I spread photos and for their size ... These new mobile phones ... Older can crop photos, but now I do not understand how it works, it's not for people.

Front photo

Testing...

splice

Stator

Back


Video - download.nnover.ru/data/uf2/3468314/_WP_20140426_007.mp4

[electrondady1]

so , it is a single phase alternator.
perhaps the center whole of the epoxy stator could be enlarged slightly.
but, it looks as though you have a solid plate of steel on the back side of the stator.
if that is so, it is bad.
when your magnet rotor is close to the stator it will be attracted to that steel and it will not want to turn. it will  resist turning.
better if the steel disk was not bolted to the stator but was allowed to rotate with the front magnet rotor.

[john8750]

Don't know how to help, I'm new also.
Just wanted to say hi and welcome.
 

[xxzxxz]

so , it is a single phase alternator.

Hi electrondady1
No, it`s 2  phase alternator (we think about 3 phase, but make it was too lazy.....)

but, it looks as though you have a solid plate of steel on the back side of the stator.
if that is so, it is bad.
when your magnet rotor is close to the stator it will be attracted to that steel and it will not want to turn. it will  resist turning.
better if the steel disk was not bolted to the stator but was allowed to rotate with the front magnet rotor.

I do not understand , you can give an example?
Yes, the rear wall of the most durable Made of steel ( but then began to appear a weight problem and we abandoned dei ispolzvat steel 5mm ) . And indeed, the rotor rotates pretty hard, I thought it was okay ... Until this point , we tested the braking system by a short circuit (to be implemented automatically in case of breakage of the blades ) .

Generally , we assumed that the proximity of the magnets of the rotor and stator - for granted . So we avoid the loss , as I remember the magnetic field decreases inversely vadratu distances ... We were wrong ?

[xxzxxz]

Don't know how to help, I'm new also.
Just wanted to say hi and welcome.
 

Thank you, I am also glad to see you.

[electrondady1]

post a wiring diagram.
you say it's difficult to turn?

[kitestrings]

I'm not seeing any of the intended photos.  Is this true for others here?

Welcome john8750.

[Flux]

Yes I can see the photos but some things are not clear. I have to agree with electrondady that it looks to be single phase ( have you reversed alternate coils?).

I also suspect the stator is backed with a fixed steel plate, this just won't work and it won't work with any other metal backing it either ( magnetic or not).

In view of the fact that you seem to be using pvc pipe blades I can only suggest that you mount the stator on a piece of plywood for the initial tests, the two supporting bars from the hub will probably be ok.

Get it working and learn from the experience, it should work in some way if the stator coils are phased right and you can get rid of the steel backing eddy current brake disc.

There should be no drag at all with the stator not connected if everything is right.

Flux

[midwoud1]

xxz  Welcome.

Pse. dimensions of your magnet rotor disc. Do we read 3 mm thickness ?

We have rotor discs  350 mm diam , thickness 10mm  steel.

9 Coils / 12 poles. Solid stator frame . No steel backplate fixed on stator.

A steel disc on the mainshaft ,same size as your magnet disc is okay on stator backside.

Propeller 3 blade HAWT  3 meter diam.  (Wood)

Lots of good info on the forum and the windpower books of the Dans ( Bartman and Fink )

and the Recipe book  ( Hugh Piggott )

   - Frans -

[xxzxxz]

post a wiring diagram.
you say it's difficult to turn?

HI electrondady1
Yes, turns quite difficult.
I think now - it's because of the weight. However hub itself is not an easy standard rotation.

If I do a short circuit, I have enough strength to do 5-8 rotations of the disc.


Hi kitestrings
Unfortunately, I do not understand your question.
Sorry.

Hi Flux
Stop.
Something I do not understand.
See: The stator in this embodiment serves as a base or "frame" of the car. Stator - metal, it is a coil (if you open the third photo, there is clearly visible this layer, it is yellow and its anchorage)

So I do not quite understand your phrase "I also suspect the stator is backed with a fixed steel plate, this just won't work and it won't work with any other metal backing it either (magnetic or not).", As -it is not translated.
Or do you recommend me to make a magnetic rotor (magnets stick there?)

Hi midwoud1
Hi France.
Yes, I Use the metric system (although there guys in Canada consider it obsolete).
The thickness of the rotor and the stator of three millimeters
The size of the magnets 50 x 20 x 5 mm.
I do not like three-bladed propeller, too big, too hard to balance, but there are interesting advantages.

You somehow make propellers of wood, I do not understand why so complicated? This is expensive and not reliable (((


PS 2 ALL
I'm sorry, I can not always respond quickly in May - we've got the traditional communist holidays whose meaning has no one remembers. A little later the holy feast - the Second World War, so that we rest for almost two weeks. Personally, I'm fishing, it's the reason I so slow.

[electrondady1]

hey, Canada is metric!
it's just the yanks being nostalgic  hanging on to antique British methods of measuring .
(some would prefer cubits)
but Canadians use both systems. we can adapt
we can score goals from in front of, or behind the net !

 the stator is the 24 coils and the resin you cast them in.
the sheet of steel on the back  is a mistake !
undo the 8 bolts and peel it off.
then build a new stator support system using angle iron or what ever.
you need  new stator support brackets .

 are the magnets you are using rare earth magnets or are they conventional ferrite magnets?

enjoy your holiday .
   

[midwoud1]

It runs a bit into confusion.

Do you have a sketch of your design ? Mechanical, Electrical.

So we can help you better.

Rgds.  - F -

[xxzxxz]

hey, Canada is metric!
it's just the yanks being nostalgic  hanging on to antique British methods of measuring .
(some would prefer cubits)
but Canadians use both systems. we can adapt
we can score goals from in front of, or behind the net !

 the stator is the 24 coils and the resin you cast them in.
the sheet of steel on the back  is a mistake !
undo the 8 bolts and peel it off.
then build a new stator support system using angle iron or what ever.
you need  new stator support brackets .

 are the magnets you are using rare earth magnets or are they conventional ferrite magnets?

enjoy your holiday .
 

Hi electrondady1

Nostalgia is good.
But the Yankees do not know how to play hockey))))

we can score goals from in front of, or behind the net !

I was at the Olympics ((((

Very strange. You plunged me into confusion.
The fact that I was "locked" magnets on the rotor, ie, stuck them alternating different poles (you can see it in the photo, some marked with Arabic numerals, Roman others).
Are you sure you are sure that I do not need the metal cover on the stator? Why?
I am ashamed, but I do not remember "field theory" of physics course ((((

ps I use neodym magnets.
pps Thanks for the suggestion.
However, I was already tired from the holidays. Now we have 4 working days, but usually take leave on them and it turns out that you have a rest from May 1st to 9th, so then there's the usual weekend ...

[xxzxxz]

Hi midwoud1

It runs a bit into confusion.

Do you have a sketch of your design ? Mechanical, Electrical.

So we can help you better.

Rgds.  - F -

Do not quite understand the first sentence.

I'll try to give a general drawing of the generator, but as I wrote above - I'm fishing now.
In the evening I try to connect my laptop and I'll send you a scheme.

I did not draw electrical circuit. There are all primitive.
I have 24 coils. They are connected by a 2-loop coils 12 each (here Joints consistent (1-3-5-7-9-11-13-15-17-19-21-23 and 2-4-6-8-10-12-14-16-18-20-22-24)).

I had the idea to make a 3-phase system, but became lazy. This is the reason for choosing a system of 24 coils (12-little,18-lot, 24-optimal).
Then would Joints were as follows:
First: 1-4-7-10-13-16-19-22
Second :2-5-8-11-14-17-20-23
Third: 3-6-9-12-15-18-21-24

That is, I want to get a 2-phase system.
On the way out I have 4 pins.
They are connected by a rectifier.
Rectifier would connect to the battery.

[Flux]

Most machines are dual rotor with a rotating magnet disc either side of the stator. The stator is supported clear of the magnet rotors. if you leave off the back magnet disc the stator still needs to be supported in  a similar way.

You can leave magnets off the back disc and if it is rotating all will be well but you must not have any form of stationary metal disc at the back of that stator or the magnet rotor will induce eddy currents in this metal and cause lots of drag.

The metal structure at the back of your stator is fine mechanically but electrically it is a disaster, that is why I suggested you try plywood or similar as it could be easily adapted without much change.

Regarding props, that is a personal preference but I don't find plastic pipe easier to deal with than wood. Wood has many advantages in terms of performance and life.

Similarly 3 blades have very many advantages over 2 and really are not that difficult to balance but you should be able to get something working with simple plastic pipe blades.

I think everything will work as long as you get rid of that solid stationary metal the stator is mounted on.

Flux

[xxzxxz]

That is, I understand what you are asking me to leave the rotor as it is (with the magnets had polar) and the change of the stator iron heel?

[xxzxxz]

About preferences - plastic pipe - this is a temporary option. I plan in the future daelat propeller of carbon or the most extreme case of wood.
I have strict requirements on weight, it is conditioned by the very design and materials used.
Just I do not like the tree because in case of breakage (split), I get a pretty big damage radius with potentially severe injuries to the victims.
We have safety built into the absolute.

[kitestrings]

For some reason when I first opened this post I was unable to see the photos.  Not a problem now.

xxyxxz, it looks like your stator has a metal backing for support.  Generally you don't want any metal there, or in close enough proximity to the magnets around the outside of the stator.  Is it possible you could use another material, and support the stator form beyond the magnet rotor(s)?

Regarding blades, here's my bias:  Three blades avoids the uneven loading and unloading that happens with two as the prop passes by the tower.  This wears on everything, in similar fashion to imbalance.

Plastic, PVC and the like often start out good , but become brittle with UV degradation.  Wood, comparatively is easy to work, low cost, resilient, and with a good finish pretty durable overall.  There are lots of possibilities, but to me there are enough other challenges to start with.

Do post a schematic, or layout if you can.  This might help.

Good luck,  ~ks

[hiker]

i belive a few years back..dan-f.. built a single rotor mill with no lams or disk behind the stator..
so  if your worried about weight ..and dont need a efficient mill you could go that route..

[xxzxxz]

Do post a schematic, or layout if you can.  This might help.

Hi kitestrings
I have stupid problems. I can not on this laptop to open files with the drawings - no program. And since I'm still fishing I've got no good internet only through a Wi-Fi mobile phone.
So the problem (((
I can put the files themselves, but can you see them?

ps possible to make a backup server. It happens when you have a day))))
pps Prop leave see later

[xxzxxz]

i belive a few years back..dan-f.. built a single rotor mill with no lams or disk behind the stator..
so  if your worried about weight ..and dont need a efficient mill you could go that route..

You could not write it somehow primitive? And then Google translator can not cope. ))))

[electrondady1]

стальная пластина на задней панели статора, если плохо. удалить это.
построить еще один вид поддержки статора кронштейна.

[kitestrings]

I believe the options are either to get the steel disc out of the stator, or if there is one, have it turn with the front magnet rotor.  A non-metallic support would work as you have it.

У всех нас есть глупые проблемы

[electrondady1]

это так для людей

[xxzxxz]

это так для людей

humorist