Author Topic: Using grid for peak power needs only  (Read 11287 times)

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JohnWilliams

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Using grid for peak power needs only
« on: September 04, 2014, 04:29:46 PM »
I live on a small farm in a rural area of Southern Illinois with a coop electric company that does not allow grid-tie solar. I have an energy certified all electric home (certification by the coop when under construction). I also have geothermal heating and cooling. Long term, our coal based coop will be hit pretty bad by the trend in EPA regs on use of coal. Now is the time for me to start considering solar. BTW, my background is a BS in EE, retired from the computer industry so I have the electrical skills, but not much knowledge in solar best practices nor terminology.

First step is to profile my energy usage. I have details from smarthub on daily use but have no details on peak use during the day. I have a killawatt but no way of looking at overall use over 24 hour timeline. I just bought a clear current EnviR to get a better view of peak loads on the heavy hitters (Geo, cooktop, oven, WH, washer/dryer, etc).

I was looking at Chris Olson's videos on youtube on the use of a moderately sized inverter, with a generator backup to handle the peak loads. Was thinking in my case, of use of a moderately sized system that handles nominal loads entirely on solar but calls from the grid for peak load help. Is this possible and practical? Would this be considered grid-tie?

As I consider this for the house I am planning to start a small solar project on the shop electrical using a RV2012 inverter that I have on hand. That will allow me to start learning more about this with some hands on capability on a smaller scale. My shop is 350 ft from the nearest electrical panel and I don't want to run 4 wire 100amp cable underground for that distance due to cost. Will be an interesting experience to see if I can meet my shop needs with and inverter and a generator.

Thanks for viewing my post and anxious for some input.

John

John

Mary B

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Re: Using grid for peak power needs only
« Reply #1 on: September 04, 2014, 04:45:38 PM »
I am slowly taking loads off grid but I do have a battery bank. So far Computers, ham gear, TV, pellet stove are all off grid 80% of the time. I just use a transfer switch to drop back to grid when needed. I have a UPS/power conditioner at each load to smooth the switchover bump.

JohnWilliams

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Re: Using grid for peak power needs only
« Reply #2 on: September 04, 2014, 04:52:47 PM »
Hi Mary,

My call is AC9HY... 8)

I have a 60 amp emergency panel wired into the main panel that I can use to run critical loads on a generator during power outages. That will be my first target with the EnviR to profile the load and start with a system to cover that since it is an easy target. Glad to hear that others are doing similar things.

How big is your system in inverter/battery/pv size?

John
John

Bruce S

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Re: Using grid for peak power needs only
« Reply #3 on: September 04, 2014, 05:03:42 PM »
John;
Welcome to the forum!

Where at in S.Ill? I know of places from StL down to Egypt and around where 155 hits 55 (Dyersburg).
Pretty country !!
Cheers;

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JohnWilliams

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Re: Using grid for peak power needs only
« Reply #4 on: September 04, 2014, 05:13:51 PM »
Salem, IL
John

Mary B

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Re: Using grid for peak power needs only
« Reply #5 on: September 05, 2014, 12:41:58 AM »
Currently 1,200 watts of panels installed, 928 amp hours pf battery. 24 volt system and dual 1kw pure sine inverters. Samlex PST-1000 inverters are RF quiet but not able to grid tie which I didn't consider a problem. Another 1,200 watts of panels waiting to be installed. Car accident last fall has had my construction work on hold with an injured neck. Call is W0AAT. Morningstar MPPT45 charge controllers have also been relatively quiet.

Bruce S

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Re: Using grid for peak power needs only
« Reply #6 on: September 05, 2014, 10:25:04 AM »
Real pretty drive out 50
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JohnWilliams

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Re: Using grid for peak power needs only
« Reply #7 on: September 05, 2014, 11:37:37 AM »
Mary,

How do you have your charge controllers configured on the PV? Running the string calculator at morningstar shows the 45 MPPT maxes out at 4 120W panels. How do you have 10? Interesting that the 45 PWM controller maxes out at 720W. Wonder why and which is more efficient. Seems like 480W vs. 720W the PWM controller would deliver higher current to the batteries.
John

Mary B

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Re: Using grid for peak power needs only
« Reply #8 on: September 05, 2014, 06:27:21 PM »
I run 4 18 volt panels in series then in parallel with 4 more in series for ~80 volts to the charge controller. With MPPT you can run high voltage back to the controller saving on copper costs.

joestue

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Re: Using grid for peak power needs only
« Reply #9 on: September 05, 2014, 07:21:33 PM »
The answer is we don't know how legal it is until the Grid blows a fuse and sues you under some kangaroo court jurisdiction like they are trying to do in some states.. seeking to make it illegal to even have solar panels installed without paying the state some kind of annual fee to reflect the sunlight back into space.

you wouldn't thought they could tax the rain falling on your roof in 1940 either.


In any case it should be relatively simple to regulate power flow through a grid tie inverter built for solar, simply drop the incoming supply voltage according to the load flowing from the grid. all you need is a current transformer to measure the current, and you need a demodulator to sense the phase, and you need some mechanism to drop the voltage. relays in series with resistors, etc, etc. a smart meter shouldn't notice backwards flowing power if its kept under a short time, under a second perhaps.
however, I called up my power company and they wouldn't tell me anything.

more expensive grid tie inverters should be able to modulate the outgoing power, you could tie this in the same way.

i think a simpler way would be to install a din rail full of DPDT relays in a separate fuse box and program an algorithm to switch your loads over to local power. the relay switching time of 20ms shouldn't be too much for most of your loads.

one problem is keeping the phase of your inverter in phase with the grid for this to work.. UPS inverters designed for computer backup can do this. you just have to keep them plugged into the grid through a step down transformer.. 90 volts is usually about right. its too low so the ups switches to battery, but it will keep the output frequency in phase.
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JohnWilliams

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Re: Using grid for peak power needs only
« Reply #10 on: September 05, 2014, 09:10:19 PM »
I am now thinking that I am challenging the good old boys a bit. Buy our power ...using solar is just too uncertain and hard to manage (words from the board members that I have chatted with.) Given that the current political climate got an exemption for the coops (state law here says that the utility has to be investor owned to net-meter, coops get a pass!) to avoid the issue, the plan is to implement separate and await a time to tie-in. I like MaryAlana's approach to peel off loads. That is easy for me. I already have an emergency panel, just extend it and migrate loads to it that I can contain. Thinking of a 4.5kw or 6kw grid-tie compatible system with appropriate PV and batteries. Then I can join whenever the utilities are forced to accept solar (and it will be when the gov forces them). My monthly bill floats around $400 a month, so lots of opportunity here.

Current plan is to focus on analysis then decide in the spring when I have a feel for the loads to be managed.

Thanks for the reply, Joe
John

thirteen

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Re: Using grid for peak power needs only
« Reply #11 on: September 06, 2014, 12:52:24 AM »
John off question.  Are you in town or real close? Just wondering my dad lived there for years until ha pasted on.  he was a Veteinarian in Salem. just wondering.13
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frackers

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Re: Using grid for peak power needs only
« Reply #12 on: September 06, 2014, 07:26:29 AM »
This site might be a good start.
http://openenergymonitor.org/emon/mk2

A mate has implemented it and very pleased he is!!
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JohnWilliams

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Re: Using grid for peak power needs only
« Reply #13 on: September 06, 2014, 07:56:14 AM »
Thirteen,

5 miles out of town to the southeast. I recall an obit of a vet that passed away a while ago. Was a long time Salem vet. Was that him, perhaps?

 
John

OperaHouse

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Re: Using grid for peak power needs only
« Reply #14 on: September 06, 2014, 09:51:43 AM »
I have a system close to what you are talking about at my camp.  I run what I call a "batteryless system."  It does have a car battery removed from my truck that I don't bring with me for the summer.  It is only used for the 120A peak startup of the fridge. All the rest of the time the system works purely on what is generated by the panels.  With the excess I run incidental things all sequenced in and out. The majority of the excess heats water in a 10 and 20 gallon tank.  I have plenty of water.  In the morning it starts out at about 40C and by noon the second tank is up to temp.  This whole system works on a single $10 UNO and also includes the 12V and 36V power point chargers.  The water heaters also work at power point.  Almost nothing is wasted.  Sequencing is the key and having a smart system.  Most of what everyone has is big and dumb.  So if you actually can program, consider a system like this.  At the very least you can have your fridge switch in and out of grid power and heat water.  Consider multiple smaller inverters for dedicated loads.

thirteen

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Re: Using grid for peak power needs only
« Reply #15 on: September 06, 2014, 12:39:22 PM »
That could be him. He was east on 50 just outside of town. Fritz was his last name. Had a clinic right on the hyw so side. Leigh and Maxine
Fritz. It has been a number of years since he passed away and so did his wife(mom) Maxine only that was 5 years ago. Her sister still lives there Erleane. I am planning on driving thru there in October and stopping there and putting flowers on their graves. I was injured when she passed away and could not attend her funeral. I am in Idaho back in the sticks. Off grid forever I hope.  13
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Mary B

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Re: Using grid for peak power needs only
« Reply #16 on: September 06, 2014, 04:40:51 PM »
With a $400 monthly bill the first step would be trying to reduce use. But it is easy to shed some loads, lighting is a good area to start, entertainment electronics, computers are all easy to take off grid. Chest freezers too. When the sun sets it is easy enough to tell the transfer switch to drop back to grid on the loads.

The suggestion to use computer UPS with external batteries is an option but many are not designed for continuous use so derate them about 50%. They also have low efficiency. Using inverters off a battery bank and manual load control or computerized is the way to go to get away from this. With morningstar charge controllers I can add a relay interface that will sense battery voltage and drop the power to the inverters via a solid state relay. When the inverters drop off line my transfer switches automatically go back to grid.

I am now thinking that I am challenging the good old boys a bit. Buy our power ...using solar is just too uncertain and hard to manage (words from the board members that I have chatted with.) Given that the current political climate got an exemption for the coops (state law here says that the utility has to be investor owned to net-meter, coops get a pass!) to avoid the issue, the plan is to implement separate and await a time to tie-in. I like MaryAlana's approach to peel off loads. That is easy for me. I already have an emergency panel, just extend it and migrate loads to it that I can contain. Thinking of a 4.5kw or 6kw grid-tie compatible system with appropriate PV and batteries. Then I can join whenever the utilities are forced to accept solar (and it will be when the gov forces them). My monthly bill floats around $400 a month, so lots of opportunity here.

Current plan is to focus on analysis then decide in the spring when I have a feel for the loads to be managed.

Thanks for the reply, Joe

Frank S

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Re: Using grid for peak power needs only
« Reply #17 on: September 06, 2014, 10:40:56 PM »
With a $400 monthly bill the first step would be trying to reduce use.

The suggestion to use computer UPS with external batteries is an option but many are not designed for continuous use so derate them about 50%. They also have low efficiency.

 One other thing about UPS units many are MSW which works just fine for computers lighting and other things but MSW and some motors like Air-condition compressors  need much larger MSW units than a PSW inverter to start & run.
 the 3/4 hp motors on my lathe & band saw  do fine on my AIMS 1800w PSW , but have a hum to them on my Xantrex 3000  Plus MSW
 This could be in part because the AIMS is a low frequency and uses 1 large transformer, while the Xantrex  uses 3 tiny transformers
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DamonHD

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Re: Using grid for peak power needs only
« Reply #18 on: September 07, 2014, 03:02:36 AM »
Conservation will as Mary says be your first and best step: how many kWh per month are you using total, and how is that spread over different appliances and so on?

For example, I use 1700kWh/*year* electricity (and ~4000kWh/year natural gas for heat) for my family's home in London, UK, and the annual total bill is not far above your monthly electric bill...

http://www.earth.org.uk/saving-electricity.html#meter2014

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Mary B

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Re: Using grid for peak power needs only
« Reply #19 on: September 07, 2014, 03:06:24 AM »
I use about double your Damon, water heater is the biggest offender, clothes dryer second, fridge third(have a freezer to convert, need to grab an electrical box and heavy duty power cord to build the controller).

DamonHD

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Re: Using grid for peak power needs only
« Reply #20 on: September 07, 2014, 04:20:19 AM »
Our water heater is natural gas and we don't have a working dryer, so I'm guessing that those are the main reasons that our numbers are lower!  Anyhow, you are right on conserving first...

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JohnWilliams

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Re: Using grid for peak power needs only
« Reply #21 on: September 07, 2014, 09:03:38 AM »
I am hot on the trail of analyzing my loads. Conserve first...

My coop uses smartmeters and just setup a smarthub portal for me to see some statistics on usage. My latest monthly bill shows use of 1000KWh on the base billing rate of 11 cents and roughly 2000 KWh at a secondary rate of 7.8 cents.

Yesterday's use was 105 KWh. Wow! lots of opportunity to look for conservation. Back of the envelope calc - assume 1 KWh rate for 12 hours of sleep - gives the rate of use at 7.75 KWh for the other 12 hours. Something is really eating the power!

I have the following appliances, all energy star cert (FWIW). All electric home built to co-ops energy cert program with inspections by co-op during build. I was also on site during the entire build.   

WaterFurnace Geothermal HVAC with a setup to pre-heat 50gal water for DHW. (a second 50gal WH with elements disconnected, that feeds the cold water input of the primary DHW).

50 GAL Electric DHW

Cabrio High Efficiency W/D

2 Freezers, one just purchased this week, second one smaller and older, that will be used as overflow when necessary, otherwise shut off. (we raise and sell grass-fed beef)

2 refrigerators, one primary in kitchen, second in garage for egg storage (we sell eggs on our farm). 

Kenmore Dish Washer

GE Electric cook-top

Whirlpool oven

Sharp convection oven/microwave

Satellite entertainment (2 flat screen TV with associated satellite boxes)

2 computers left on 24/7 and configured to go to sleep to conserve energy (FWIW)

Thoughts -

I purchased a Current Cost EnviR energy monitor. It has a clamp on transmitter that I can use on 230V like my Kill-a-watt for 120V. Anxious for it to be delivered.

1. All of my fridge/freezers/entertainment/internet plus critical lighting is on a separate emergency panel. I can measure and plot that load thru one 230V cable.
2. Will re-assess the Geo. Co-op put a meter on it by itself to assess energy use for the first 3 years. They stated that H/C was costing a little over $1.00 a day. We will see if that is still true. I suspect not.
3. Will profile the DHW. Also will see how much pre-heat I am getting from the geo. Thoughts are that when I implement the solar, this is a perfect setup for diversion water heating. Replace the elements with 2000W units and tie it into the inverter to pre-heat water with surplus energy when avail.
4. Want to get a load profile on the W/D.
5. Want to get a load profile on the cooktop/oven.
6. All of my outbuildings are on a separate feed from the pole outside. As I stated, I am first going to implement solar in the shop since I already have a Trace RV2012.

At this time of year the only thing running in the barns are fans and some cfl lighting. Goal is to make barns self sufficient. In winter we run around 1000W of water bowl heaters for livestock. I am working on a circuit to control the fans in summer and the heaters in winter based on temperature. Only run heaters when below freezing and fans when above 80-85 degrees in summer. That should help a lot.

Long post, but wanted to show what my current thinking is ...

John

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JohnWilliams

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Re: Using grid for peak power needs only
« Reply #22 on: September 07, 2014, 10:44:28 AM »
"At this time of year the only thing running in the barns are fans and some cfl lighting."

5 fans at 130W each (24/7), 6 CFL floods at 15W each (24/7), 2 65W sodium yard lights during dark.

(650W+ 90W)*24 + 130W*9hrs = 18.93 KWh - there is 18% of the daily load!

John

PS. and the horses are never in the barn, always outside unless they are avoiding a horsefly.

Fans are going off, and one yard light is going off.
John

thirteen

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Re: Using grid for peak power needs only
« Reply #23 on: September 07, 2014, 03:04:14 PM »
John I live in Idaho but also have a House in Butte, Montana. (home state) The power company came free of charge and went over my system and gave me a breakdown of wasted electricity. I even had them preasure test my home free for air leaks and found two hidden in the walls. They never tied a wall into the next one and behind a corner the molding it was open to the outside. Power bill dropped $28.oo per month. You should not have these type of problems. They suggested that I wrap my water heaters with a insulated blanket made for them. I even covered hotwater lines to and from my water heater. There is a lot of ghost voltage lost on many pieces of electricail equipement. Even plugged in a lot of new things use electricity internally even when not is use. A power strip can save a lot of elect.  Just a few ideas. 13
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Mary B

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Re: Using grid for peak power needs only
« Reply #24 on: September 07, 2014, 03:53:36 PM »
How many cell chargers, cordless phone, ipad, laptop etc are left plugged in all day even of the device is not being charged? That can add up fast too. You are on the right track and with a running farm your bill is going to be higher.  Maybe put solar panels on each barn and outbuilding to power them during daylight hours. Maybe think about solar hot water or air to lower the heating cost during winter. Cooling s a tough one and not much can be done there besides turn up the thermostats.

Your cooking appliances are probably around 5% of your load, washer/dryer could be pretty high with normal farm laundry(my grandmother washed laundry every day when I was there in summer. 9 of us working outside meant  a lot of dirty clothes). Pick away at loads and see what can be changed, yard lights are often a flat fee from most utilities, might want to check that. Here it is $65 a year to run one and they install it.

JohnWilliams

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Re: Using grid for peak power needs only
« Reply #25 on: September 07, 2014, 05:47:44 PM »
Thirteen,

The co-op inspected the house 5 times during construction, and required tight restrictions on my builder. We caulked the heck out of it prior to drywall, inspected insulation twice, specified 2 in insulated foam board on rim walls and basement walls facing outside in addition to netted blown insulation in the walls. I seriously doubt any latent construction issues. However, an inspection of all weather striping is planned.  My usage dropped another 18 kwh yesterday when outside temps dropped from low 90's to low 70's. Been 6 years since geo was installed, wondering if the loop system is losing efficiency. When I get the 230V meter I can scope it and see if there is a problem there. Something is sucking serious power in the system.

Mary, yes, the washer runs every day. On the yard light, I have one from the utility. Has to be on their side of the meter so can't replace the ones on the horse barn. May look at LED options. they are getting better and better.

Solar is going into the shop. Hope to have enough capacity to run the livestock barn also. They are about 100 ft apart. The Trace RV2012 is here so might as well use it. Main sticking point is do I go cheap with PWM controller and 120W panels, or over spend on panels (250W) and MPPT in anticipation on moving up from the 2012 to a SW4024 after the learning phase. That would give me more configurable options. I like the Xantrex/Schneider line. The RV2012 is rock solid but the 12V and only 2000W is limiting in a shop, plus no split phase. I want to do similar to what Chris Olson does. Use the inverter for most loads, then when we hit a peak, auto switch to grid with the inverter running in support mode. I have 20A of 230V to the shop now, and am going solar to avoid spending over $1000 up to run a buried 100A line to the shop. Overkill for my moderate needs.   

Thanks for the comments
John

ChrisOlson

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Re: Using grid for peak power needs only
« Reply #26 on: September 07, 2014, 10:55:46 PM »
I was looking at Chris Olson's videos on youtube on the use of a moderately sized inverter, with a generator backup to handle the peak loads. Was thinking in my case, of use of a moderately sized system that handles nominal loads entirely on solar but calls from the grid for peak load help. Is this possible and practical? Would this be considered grid-tie?

We are off-grid, but over time have gone to one of the biggest inverters you can buy, combined with generator support to eliminate the need for dual inverters and more batteries.

The same inverter we have can do grid support as well as it does generator support, and it is not considered grid-tie because you are not selling back to the utility or net-metering power.  Basically what the inverter does is sync the sine waves on both legs (L1 and L2) to the utility, then uses your solar power to offset how much you use from the grid.  If you have enough solar (and battery capacity for overnight) it will use a minimal amount from the grid (just enough so it can sample the stability of your grid power and stay sync'd with it) and most of your loads will be powered by solar.  If the solar isn't sufficient it will continue supplementing the grid from battery power until the batteries are discharged to the point you set, then stop using renewable and start using all grid power until the solar comes back.  If your grid power goes out, the inverter takes over automatically and all your loads are on battery/solar until the grid comes back.

The inverter has dual AC inputs - one for grid, one for generator.  So you can also incorporate either a manually started genset, or an auto-start genset controlled by the system, for extended power outages.  If your power is out then you are off-grid just like we are and the inverter will use generator support automatically (with an auto-start genset) if the inverter overloads.  These inverters (Schneider Conext XW/XW+ series are capable of handling extreme overloads for quite awhile before they shut down due to thermal issues.  We use 20-30 kWh/day in our off-grid home, all totally electric including water heating, range, electric clothes dryer and my workshop with two welders, air compressor, lathe, vertical mill, etc.. and it powers the whole works with no problem.

This is a current photo of our power room for the house and shop.  All the system inputs are on the left, including generators, wind turbines and solar.  AC power out is on the right with the inverter, of course.  Load centers are in the middle.  The load centers are dual 100A SquareD QO, one for the house, the bottom one for the shop.  The battery bank is down below in an insulated and sealed case with a duct fan blowing warm air into the case in the winter, and cool air in the summer from the basement in the house.

So the DC power flow is from the left to the battery bank and DC bus panel (with ammeter on it) to the inverter.  The AC power flow can be switched with the 200A Ronk transfer switch on the left, and with the SquareD QO Load Center panel immediately to the left of the inverter.  The QO panel has two 100A breakers interconnected with a SquareD QO2DTI interlock, and a third two-pole breaker for the water heaters.  The combination of the two transfer panels allows me to connect any one of three generators either direct to loads, or to the inverter's AC2 input.



This is the system controls on our kitchen wall - the system is totally automated, including water heating controls, and basically all we have to do is monitor it.  We interact with, or mess with settings, on our power system very little anymore, as it provides us with pretty much the equivalent of having grid power @ 20-30 kWh/day energy consumption.



I recently put together an estimated total cost figure for our system and came up with around $76,000.  Off-grid power is not cheap.  Even if your utility tripled their prices, it is still cheaper than off-grid power.  Our system is considerably, by several times, more reliable than utility power.  But the batteries alone, on a 10 year replacement interval, cost 18 cents for every kWh they store and put back into the system.  It should be noted that not all the DC power goes thru the battery, as a good portion of it goes directly from DC sources to the bus to the inverter.  But the batteries are the Achilles Heel of an off-grid system.

JohnWilliams

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Re: Using grid for peak power needs only
« Reply #27 on: September 08, 2014, 08:25:30 AM »
Thank you, Chris for the excellent, informative reply. I have a couple of followup questions/comments

1. How much PV capacity do you have and how much does the wind contribute? Are you sized on your generation for 1 day of use or do you have extra capacity for multiple days?

2. More of a comment - it seems that the economics of using batteries will always be more expensive than grid power unless grid costs go through the roof. The problem I have is that what do you do with excess power if there are no batteries in the system. For most of the months of the year, the generation capability is not at 100%, but when it is, it seems a waste to not store it somewhere. You can only store so much hot water through diversion... I did some math on the payback of a inverter/grid system with no batteries and the payback is really long. Sounds like if I add batteries, it gets worse...
John

ChrisOlson

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Re: Using grid for peak power needs only
« Reply #28 on: September 08, 2014, 09:18:46 AM »
John, we have 7.5 kW of installed solar capacity.  The wind power has contributed zero since about late April, as we no longer run the turbine in the summer months.  We put in a 7.5 kW Bergey Excel-R last year and we'll start it up as the days start getting shorter in the fall and the solar can no longer keep up.  In the winter time the wind power provided 52.6% of our total RE power last year, but overall it only supplies 16.1% of the total in a calendar year since we have gone to more PV.  If I had it to do over I would not mess with wind power at all and just use a diesel co-gen set in the winter time to supplement the solar.  We have a 50 kW diesel cogeneration set that powers and heats our large farm shop, and it is much more economical per kWh of combined heat and electricity than wind power is.

We have gone to not really caring if the solar doesn't run at full capacity in the summer months.  We kept adding panels until we have enough for cloudy days.  It is not a matter of payback time - it is a matter of being able to live a normal lifestyle with the absence of utility power.  For an average home that uses 9,000 kWh/year @ 15 cents/kWh your electricity costs are only about $1,350/year.  At the cost of our system you'd go for 56 years at today's electricity prices before you spend the upfront money to put the system in.  And in 56 years it is likely that most every component in our system will be replaced at least twice.

So in a nutshell there is no way that renewable power can compete with utility power for cost.  With the US now becoming the largest oil producer on earth, and that keeping fuel prices in check, I have found that fossil fueled diesel generators are more cost effective than solar or wind for off-grid power.  The only thing driving the solar/wind market right now is the global warming/climate change deal, which is mostly a bunch of political hooey designed for a select few to rake in trillions on global carbon trading markets.  The one advantage that solar has over diesel is that it has no moving parts so it's easier to maintain and doesn't require periodic oil changes, etc..  But if you are going at this thinking your are ever going to get any sort of payback from it, you are looking at it wrong.

gww

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Re: Using grid for peak power needs only
« Reply #29 on: September 08, 2014, 11:56:41 AM »
My payback for what is spent is simular to chris's. 
gww

ChrisOlson

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Re: Using grid for peak power needs only
« Reply #30 on: September 08, 2014, 01:50:53 PM »
The economics of solar and wind does not pencil out against utility power.  With the current administration's attack on coal-fired power plants it will just cause a shift to natural gas instead and I expect you'll see retail electricity rates climb by 8-10% in the next 5 years.  Meanwhile, in China they will continue pouring the coal to the fireboxes as fast as they can get it.

Electricity rates have to over double before solar and wind sources are economically feasible.  The government needs to get out of the business of subsidizing wind farms and solar power plants and let them stand on their own two feet and compete heads-up against the fossil fuel energy industry.  The solar and wind industry will get crushed overnight and then be forced to rebuild with a more competitive product.  Too many taxpayer dollars have been wasted already on "green" projects that go belly up in the longer term.

For individuals, where reliability of grid power is an issue, or the absence of it altogether, then solar and wind power start to make more sense.  But even then with off-road #2 diesel fuel now below $3/gallon on the contract wholesale markets, when it comes to generating off-grid or standby power, diesel is far cheaper than putting in solar.  And for the "greenies" diesel is actually more environmentally friendly than solar is.  The raw materials to make solar panels don't come out of thin air - they have to be mined out of the ground, transported, and processed.  All of which takes tremendous amounts of diesel power to accomplish for each solar panel and the few kWh it produces in its life over what the input power is required to mine the materials, transport and process them, and manufacture it.  Rather than wasting all that diesel fuel on that stuff, just stick it in the fuel tank on a generator engine and get power directly from it.  Today's diesels with DPF's and after-treatment DEF systems have such clean exhaust that the exhaust pipes stay perfectly clean and rust out.  Can't even kill a lab rat anymore with the exhaust from a modern diesel engine.