Another Auto Alternator system

[Harold in CR]

 Hi
 Please bear with me.  I have a 24V 150A truck alternator I bought really cheap 3 years ago. My intentions are to put it up with a 14-15' blade span with a spring tension adjustable pitch governor system. That blade will be hooked to a 10:1 helical gear gearbox, housed inside a piece of well casing. RPM,s hopefully, will be limited to not over 250 max.

 I have free blade material, from local Spanish Cedar, and, time is free, being retired. The gearbox I bough, brand new, for $60.00, so, very small $$ in this turbine, so far. Tower I will build, also.
 This is roughly how I built my 4KW wind machine 15 years ago, and, it worked fine. I have taken the rotor out of the housing, and have fitted (just for clearance sake) some 1½" X ¾" X 1/4" thick N42 magnets to each claw finger, canting them slightly to reduce cogging a little. I may be able to turn some material off the fingers to allow the magnets to clear the stator teeth. If not, I will turn an aluminum spool shape to place on the rotor shaft in place of the claw rotor, using those same magnets. Magnets were also bought before the major price increase of 2+ years ago, so, This thing will be pretty inexpensive, for what it is.

 I am not looking for max output of 3.6KW. If I can achieve 1Kw, I will be satisfied, because I am looking to buy an electric car battery to be divided up for my e-motorcycle and my house, figuring 8KW for each part. The house is now using 12V for lighting and battery back up for the computer. I can always bump the battery up to 24V, being as I have the 24V alternator.

 With such a poor amount of information I have posted, can anyone take a WAG as to what output I can achieve, at roughly 20MPH winds. Right now, we are having 22MPH with 37MPH gusts. Needing a GOOD controller with adjustable setting will also be needed. Suggestions ? Batteries will be Lithium, most likely. Lead acid is not possible to ship to CR from Florida, and, good batteries are VERY expensive here.

 Thanks for any rough calculations-input.

 I am headed to Florida on Feb 26, (4 days from today), and have access to metal lathe, horizontal bandsaw, milling machine, acy torch, etc. so, building stuff is not my problem.

[Mary B]

No vehicle alternator has ever made good power...

[Harold in CR]

 Thanks Mary. I just need to use what I have. Funds are very limited. That's why I'm looking for maybe 1 KW max, from a possible 3.6 KW possible.

 For what it's worth, this stator has very thin laminations, compared to all the others I have ever seen. I know this is optimum for motors, so, hope it's all helpful for Alternators.

[Harold in CR]

Another bit of info. This is a low cut-in or high output at lower RPM's Alternator. Used for Fire trucks, ambulances, police cars, etc., with a high battery draw for lights, radios, etc.

 That's why I bought it, originally.

[Flux]

Most of the numbers add up but there are a few unknowns.

I suspect the alternator will cut in about 1000 rpm so that gives a prop cut in of 100, which is in the right region.

I don't know how stiff the alternator will be, but it may well be stiff enough to drag the prop into stall early and you may need a series heater to get it to run up, if you can use the heat then fine.

Possible snags, even if you can reduce cogging to a low level I think the iron loss will be such that it will take a good wind to start it. If you have winds of 20mph it may be ok, don't expect it to be running on light wind days.

I personally think that converting to pmg would be a backward step, as a wound field it will start so much easier and be running in much lighter winds and you will more than offset the field loss. Field control will give you the ability to match the prop to the wind speed and get better control. Unless you use slip rings, dopping 2 more wires down is no great problem.

Gear box is a total unknown, life may be incredibly short from my experience unless it is way over size.

1kw at 20 mph should not be a problem.

Flux

[Harold in CR]

 Thanks for the response, Flux. My computer went onn the fritz and I am now in Florida, on my newer backup laptop.

 My thinking on the PMG was, it may not get a high output, but, it will eliminate the switching in and out of that wound field coil. Electronics don't computer in my mind.

 As stated, this is a low RPM output alternator.

 I brought the rotor with me, to get the claws pressed off the shaft. IF I can learn how to use the wound field coil, I will just make up the spool sha[ped rotor out of aluminum, so I can always experiment, even if I can find a SS shaft to make a whole new rotor, and just swap them out at a later date.

 I'm not too concerned about the gearbox. It is a heavy cast iron unit made by Bostan gear. Now that I'm back online, I will see if I can find a photo and info on what I have, and add it to this thread.

 I'm not a skilled machinest, I just make smaller parts from larger stock. 

 You have no idea how much help you are to me. This is all very much appreciated.

 Harold

[oztules]

I would take Flux very seriously with this one. the combined drag and problems with the PM conversion, will  far out weigh any perceived advantage you can see.

The field can be driven by the original regulator, with some changes to keep it's current draw down when winds are not there.

You have a gear box.... so you might as well use it to drive the thing as it was designed... and with less mechanical cogging... which will lower the life span of the box as well.

So I would opt for smooth drive train, simple electronic control,and easy build.... as against stiff shaft and no control.

If you buy a small arduino, and spend a few nights learning to program it, you could have yourself a quite interesting machine there, with complete control.

.......oztules

[Harold in CR]

 OK. For information, I went to ebay JUST to look around. Found many pages of various devices, none of which I have any idea what I need for an arduino.

 When I did the AC 4KW alternator, years ago, I found a relay that would energize a micro switch at a set voltage, and drop out at a high voltage, so the alternator would not over charge the battery. This was all mechanical parts, so I could see what was happening.

 This is my problem with electronics, it's all theory, no moving parts. ??

[bob g]

specifically what alternator are you planning on using?

make and model would be helpful.

bob g

[OperaHouse]

That is the problem.  You won't find an off the shelf solution.  For the first time solutions with a microprocessor
like the Arduino are possible for the complete noob. I would be the last to say that there you can't get into trouble
more ways to Sunday.  Still, if you can write a couple sentences with what you want to do it is likely you can program.
Actually defining what you want to do is not that easy for most people and a micro is not going to guess what you want
to do.  It is fairly easy to write a program in conversational English and tailor it to your specific needs. I have one
and it runs my entire house. My program wouldn't work for any one else.  The compiler is FREE to download.  Getting it to
load on the computer is at least half the battle.  Try editing up some of the sample programs and get them to verify without
errors.  The hardware is well under $10 if you want to go further.

Your field draws a lot of current.  You don't want to turn it on till the rotor is up to a certain speed.
You can't turn it on fully at cut in speed because it will stall the rotor.
You want to increase current to match increases in rpm.
You want to control battery voltage and be able to divert power to a load to prevent overspeed.
Possibly operate a brake or turn the mill away from the wind.
This all takes a lot of defining.  The nice thing, it is easy to change.

[DamonHD]

Yes, the Arduino (and it's like) is a wonderful powerful flexible tool, but takes a little learning like any other multi-purpose tool.

Rgds

Damon

[Harold in CR]

 OK. First is the Alternator info, from an ebay ad, so, the model is in there somewhere. The alternator is in CR, I'm in Fl.

     Leece Neville    Manufacturer Part Number:    
8SC3200V 110-306 110-308 110-568
Other Part Number:    CA8633N 307-8633 90-05-9218 ZLN8SC3200V    Interchange Part Number:    110-575 110-576 8SC3018V 8SC3018VA 8SC3110V
Brand:    
Leece Neville  -24V 150A

 I realize I can't just buy what I need. However, I found over 100 different units doing a search.
IF I knew what MODEL or whatever, I would get it, and then, try to learn how to use it.
 This is the info I need first, if someone could be so kind to say what to look for.

 Again, I know nothing about Electronic stuff.

[OperaHouse]

I just posted one option for a controller.  Some sample code can be found in my UNO fridge posts.

[Harold in CR]

 Update on this project. I'm presently in Florida, turning parts on the lathe for the spring loaded governor and just received the Chevy Volt battery for my electric motorcycle and house battery pack.

 Also, turning Aluminum hub blocks for the 2 moped front wheels, for mounting disc brake rotors, as the 2 front wheels will be set as a leaning reverse tadpole machine. This will be similar to a can Am 3 wheel motorcycle, except, theirs don't lean into the turn.

 Will put in the classifieds a for sale for part of the battery.

[Harold in CR]

 Now have a 1.5 hp Magnetek 3 phase motor instead of the Alternator. Will this controller work ?

 My keyboard is skipping. copy/paste typing. 

 LINK

 

[joestue]

now do you intend to excite the induction motor?

[Harold in CR]

 Self excited Perm Magnet Magnetek motor. tested and works. 220V 3 phase.