yea ....it is tricky just looking at pics ...dont give up just yet
Oz,s method is the simplest ...and best......it works because of its practicality.....
so ....to trim down the set up maybe think this way ....
take a piece of standard 5 foot plank lumber , say 9 by 2.5 inchs ....thats the base , place another 9 by 2,5 on top ( the blade blank ) , now screw two 5 foot guides to the base front and back ...say 4 inch by 1 lumber , these are the guides or rails the sawbar will run on , set them up even first , then drop the front one 3/8 of an inch lower , ( more than that for a practice run is good )
its just a practice......
clamp the root and lower blank well
thats the practice blade pitch cut ( a 3 degree pitch would actually work just fine all the way down ) ...cut down 80% of the blank ....its done
then reverse the blade....now you have to replicate the same angle all the way down on the back side ....just turn it over in the jig...........it will sit there
re adjust you guides , you want the same angle cut all the down but you also want to taper the thickness to leave the blade stronger at the root ...so the cut will taper out somewhat early ....
problem ...the sawbar teeth just cant rest and run on two pieces one inch wood guides , so sleds have to added underneath the bar where it rides , usually 2 rectangular pieces of 6 mm steel screwed to the sawbar ....now the teeth are clear
the saw will be riding to high now ( 6mm ) , so the wood guides can be lowered to accommodate for this
its sounds awkward , but once you take a cut and see the process the penny will drop
another way of using the saw is basically let it "eat" all the raw waste .....chainsaws get through wood like cutting butter
many more cuts than these could be used......