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Restoration of a 150 year old Barn.
clockmanFRA:
Half term school holidays, so the boys are helping on the roof.
ruddycrazy:
G'day Clockman,
Eh mate to say it is enjoying to read this thread is like I use to do finding that oyster bar 2K off the coast when I lived in Port Hedand.....
Now if the mod's don't mind me hijacking this thread I would like to ask a question.
I have just started a new job as what I privately call a 'slave driver' but my title is a work for the Dole supervisor, today I went onto a new project where one of the jobs is re-pointing a heritage listed grandstand where there is a fair amount of work to be done. Now I've never done a project of this nature and I am expected to get long term unemployed people to do this. So if you can provide some info or links into this repointing of stonework I will have a place to start from.
Regards Bryan
clockmanFRA:
Hi ruddycrazy.
Yes I noticed your last post mentioned your new role. Good luck.
15 years ago I could have sent you some links, today the old traditional skills us older generation took for granted, are as rare as roking horse poo!.
For instance, 16 years ago the British Slate Roofers Association had info, all the different types of slate roof and the lap gauges on the Web. But not now.
Re, pointing, depends on the original mortar and the original Bricks. Lime or Cement ?. The mortar should not be to strong and should bind with the original.
Here is a vid that's about right........ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RFzG9jwu_yw
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yRKcAW1OTnk
But be very careful not to damage the brick edges when raking out the old mortar. I use a 900W angle grinder with a 40mm long carbide cutter that has a diameter just under the mortar width, do not use a angle grinder as you have very little accurate control. And raking out to a good depth is important.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mortar-rake-4-flute-tungsten-carbide-reversible-8-x-30mm-with-M14-adaptor-/131627051434?hash=item1ea59569aa:m:mNEkW-3kl0ElMKdzGcRfHXw or ...... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Turptech-Professional-Rotary-TCT-Chisel-Mortar-Rake-Choice-of-5-Sizes/371402883136?_trksid=p2045573.c100034.m2102&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D33828%26meid%3Dd1f9ad46bdce4d1083ba57df9d24a1ca%26pid%3D100034%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D400758907603
And I do not trowel I use this type of special fine mortar... http://www.forsterindustrial.co.uk/files/Products/Parex/Streetscaping/Parex_Easipoint_Standard_paving.pdf
Where I use a an injection gun, its a big diameter gun like.... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mortar-Gun-for-Brick-Pointing-and-Tile-Grouting-Cement-Applicator-Tool-794339-/351514295875
And you will need some re-pointing tools with different radius's like....... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Marshalltown-M505D-Tuck-Pointing-Trowel-Durasoft-Handle-3-8-/171846273062?hash=item2802d60826:g:mEsAAOxydgZTGbf0 or ....... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brick-Jointer-3-8-5-8-1-2-Laying-Builders-Mortar-Double-Pointing-Trowel-Tool-/252093421461?var=&hash=item3ab1f05795:m:mqqfL0cKZtcru33Yct7XpBQ
Trust the above helps.
Bruce S:
Ruddy,
IF Clockman don't mind :) we don't mind!
I agree with what he's posted. I no pointer by any stretch of the imagination , but I've learnt a few tricks and his posts show most.
The angle grinder was what I started with and quickly found out why NOT to use one.
Best
Bruce S
MattM:
It would have been a great time to install insulation between vertical slats. The aluminum faced moisture guard felt would have acted as a radiant barrier, too, since your horizontal slats create an air gap. If you were worried about moisture drainage, you could have kept the insulation thinner than your slats. Metal roofs typically use 1/4" of air gap under the panels.
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