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Restoration of a 150 year old Barn.
MattM:
You have great detail in your pictures. In your starter row, with the partial slate piece, do they not use a drip edge / leaf in your part of the world? Half round gutter needs all the help it can get to catch water. :)
Normally in the states we use drip edge / leaf metal to do two things, guide water and to prevent wind uplift. We also use style D ridge metal on gable ends to prevent wind uplift. Using a J channel on top ridge metal gives a sharp detail on a gable, too.
clockmanFRA:
Ruddycrazy, heres a bit of my re-pointing lime mortar and bricks, and I am using the injection and smooth systems I talked about earlier.
Its rural here so we need satellite dishes, but I live in hope that technological improvements will replace the ugly equipment.
Hmm! must finish the whole wall/gable end so it looks uniform.
MattM, A traditional French Normandy house (1880's) gable end, they use tiles to protect the end up joist, and the wall plate and the main purloins. I use stainless steel screws on those slates that get the weather.
clockmanFRA:
MattM, Modern French houses are slung up super quick with blocks and internal dab on insulation bats.
However, this is Normandy and I have tried to stick to the Ancient traditional styles and methods where I can.
Drip edge never seen it here, maybe in the UK but not here. Gutter boards/fosists are not common in rural areas. As my old joiner used to say, "Gutter boards, fossits etc, keeps me working", but nowadays these are now PVC/plastic with the manufacturers doing 'traditional styles' gota laugh.
Sadly all my old true craftsmen friends, Architect's, real Stone Masons, Bricklayers, Joiners, Cabinet Makers are all dying, but most have been out here and had a good luck see.
Mostly saying, "I, traditional methods," and "you got some work on here boy".
My friend the Cabinet Maker used to say, " Look, If Chippendale would have had marine plywood, he would have b..loody used it".
All the gutters, downpipes here are Zinc, and are still produced at a reasonable price. Lead is not liked/ encouraged by the authorities here.
As original roof methods the tiles have a 2 inch overlap from the wood roof boarding and I get the slates drip to be central just above the top of the 6inch wide zinc gutter.
Again I use zinc ridge covers as traditionally done, I make my own as the French supplied ones are very wide and don't match the old, again I use stainless steel holding screws.
Zinc sheet is aaagggra horrible to work with as it tears and is problematic when soldering large sheets together, flat roofs etc.
This barn roof has no gable ends.
This is the overhanging roof of the barn Entrance, and yes those main oak beams are in good condition and cantilever just right. Posh look, the small original guttering is still hanging there.
And the other end, not a roof square edge anywhere. ::)
Still slating.........
sean_ork:
Perhaps you missed my question about using foil backed plasterboard, let's put it in a slightly different manner.
Matt has tried to make the same point.
In your multi layer insulation scheme, where do you think the dew point will likely be ?
clockmanFRA:
Foil backed plasterboard is not that good and its always a hassle getting the joints sealed on the foil side.
As I said 'the ceiling will be sealed', ie air tight. What vapour barrier I use on the plasterboard is still not decided yet.
Here in France Hydrofuge plasterboard is a common board, and does seal well and works well in moisture areas, sloping ceilings etc, but again its those joints.
There is also the tonged and grooved ceiling board sandwich structures that have the vapour barrier integral.
I will wait until my block walls are up to wall plate level before making a decision.
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