johntaves,
£92 covers cost of printing a small run, Power board PCB, Ozcontrol board PCB and OzCooling PCB and postage and tracking most places in the World.
Each A4 book has, 92 printed pages, 33,400 words, 221 colour photos, 12 block diagrams. …. £28
Postage & packing and tracking number, ……. £16
PCB, Espeacially designed Power board, A4 size, double sided, double copper thickness, …… £28
PCB, Espeacially designed OzControl board, 187mm x 90mm, double sided, but can be self etched and links added, …. £12
PCB, Espeacially designed OzCooling board, 82mm x 67mm, single sided with link, ….. £8
Thanks for the info. I did not realize the book also included the PCB boards. I apologize for missing that fact and misinterpreting the "covers the cost" statements. It seems like a good bargain.
Is it your opinion that the changes I want to make (24v, 120v, and maybe 4kw) would negate the boards, or is it a matter of changing the components? Of course the transformer will be changed, but maybe the circuit does not change, just the values of the various components?
As I have already said the OzInverter was for folk who wanted a real powerful Inverter that could run a domestic house/property.
Yes, I get that. I get that I am an idiot and thus you feel the need to convert measurable units, like "Low Frequency 6kw" into something I can comprehend, like "house". But, really would anyone that does not know the general performance characteristics of an inverter bother to read this forum and post?
At 24vdc, then the primary will want to be beefed up in size and altered in its ratios with the secondary. You require 120vac and 220vac, that's possible, its detailed in the OzInverter book 2nd edition, and the secondary will require modifications for this.
Right, of course. I apologize for not finding this info in the forums first, but when you change this to a 120vac, you're doubling the amps and I assume you would make a split phase output. Is that right?
You stated something about not liking being turned on/off. I assume you are talking about something different than being connected/disconnected from the battery where the capacitors are charged, is that right? I do need to turn it off when the RV is not in use, and have it use near zero power, is there an issue there?
For 24vdc the primary choke will need re-designing to obtain a good low tick over/running power loss. This could be allot of work and experimentation to get low losses.
OK, that's great info.
To have the OzInverter just ticking over to operate a clock, makes no sense.
So for a RV, I do not think that a OzInverter will suffice for your needs, it is just to powerful.
If you read my original post, I did not write anything that would suggest such nonsense. I do not have the goal of just ticking a clock. That's the idle. That's the load it will have for a large percent of the time, thus the efficiency in that situation is very important. It will also run a fridge, 2 air conditioners, microwave, water heater, space heater, hot air gun, charge my e-bike, chop saw and a table saw, and of course computers and other electronics, which is no different from a house.
There are cheap commercially obtainable Inverters that will do what you want that are manufactured in China.
"As I have already said", I have an inverter. Its fan goes on and off, loud or quiet. I stated that to provide some clues that I wanted to make something better than I can buy. When attempting to buy some inverter, I cannot determine with any decent probability that the fan is intelligent but only on/off, or more intelligently speed controlled. I cannot tell if the fan is going to be silent when I have just the clock load. Hell, I can't even determine if the thing for sale will sustain it's rated wattage for any great length of time. I bought a $450 4kw HF Chinese inverter that stated it would surge to 8kw, so I figured there was a good chance it would be able to start my air conditioner that has a locked rotor amperage that translates to 7kw. Not only does the inverter fail to start it, it won't keep it running when the transfer switch clicks from shore to inverter. I was hoping the momentum of the motor would help.
I also need to connect the inverter to the BMS, so that the BMS can shut it off. Many of these inverters have momentary power switches, which means I have to make a simple circuit and wire that in to ensure it goes on/off properly. I also stated I wanted to build this into a specific space.
In short, I have given up attempting to buy an inverter that fits, is quiet, and will deliver the power to start the AC, and has a simple on/off position switch.
Why would you assume that someone that can find this forum has no f'ing clue how to shop for an inverter? Isn't that a rather bogus scenario?
Midnite, a US company have been developing since 2014 a HF Inverter for the US market, the B17, and I believe they have some modular 2kW units going on Beta test at present.
Yikes! That makes no sense to me. I cannot imagine the need for a modular design for the RV market. What is the point of an empty bay taking up space? Additionally, they are building in the charge controller, which seems like a poor choice given that LiFePo4 is cheaper than lead acid now. (I just installed 8 new 280ah LiFePo4 cells (6.8kwh) for $1k USD total shipped from China). LiFePo4 does not need the typical lead acid charge controller that has the 3 stages. You need a BMS that will monitor individual cells, and temperature, and turn on/off loads and on/off charge. The charge just needs to be constant current. You don't need an MPPT either. The max power of a 60 cell panel is right at 27v which is the voltage of 8 cells of LiFePo4, thus the MPPT complexity is replaced with just a diode and a relay.
Those gauges are cool, until you realize that we are talking about an inverter that should be out of sight and out of ear shot, and have decent cooling.