Author Topic: Control for heating with solar off grid no batteries (Read 76399 times)

SparWeb · « **Reply #132 on:** March 24, 2018, 03:22:19 PM »

Howdy,
I'd love to see a close-up. But first-things-first: best of health to you, hope you come back stronger!

ontfarmer · « **Reply #133 on:** March 25, 2018, 12:25:29 PM »

Here are some more pictures. The one shows the turbine partially furled.

OperaHouse · « **Reply #134 on:** March 25, 2018, 01:15:47 PM »

That must work great for picking up those weak UHF TV channels.

ontfarmer · « **Reply #135 on:** March 25, 2018, 05:03:34 PM »

Certainly something to think about. Would make it dual purpose!!

Mary B · « **Reply #136 on:** March 25, 2018, 05:57:27 PM »

More like VHF... dimensions as a guess put it around 50mhz!

SparWeb · « **Reply #137 on:** March 26, 2018, 06:13:39 PM »

I'd prefer to see a diagonal brace supporting those long ribs, but other than that it looks awesome!

For an "ont farmer", you have gotta be a stone's throw from Windsor to have shadows that short.
If an "ab farmer" like me wanted a rig like that (and I do indeed) it would have to stand higher than the house.

ontfarmer · « **Reply #138 on:** March 27, 2018, 04:35:24 PM »

I am 30 Km north of London. There is a lot of bracing to go on. I will keep you updated as it progresses.

ontfarmer · « **Reply #139 on:** November 26, 2018, 06:52:00 PM »

Update on my solar. I put some bracing on the frame and installed the panels. Dug a trench with a conduct.
Asking you guys what would be a good way to power the actuator that tilts this? It is 12 volt DC.
Here is a couple pictures.

SparWeb · « **Reply #140 on:** November 26, 2018, 10:38:33 PM »

With 10 square meters of sail, I can't help first suggesting a 300-pound capstan winch and a 5/8" Amsteel mainsheet line....

But... maybe I should instead ask if you ran any spare cables through your conduit, so that the 12VDC can be generated and controlled from inside the house?

Frank S · « **Reply #141 on:** November 27, 2018, 02:51:15 AM »

If I was going to set my array up to pivot like you are showing I would want my frame work to look something like the drawing picture below because only then will there be enough rigidity to mount an actuator for the movement. actually an array of that size is going to require a significantly sized actuator probably an electric RV trailer jack would do it.

clockmanFRA · « **Reply #142 on:** November 27, 2018, 04:04:21 AM »

With my Double Axis 2kW trackers, or about 16sq meters of sail. I have found over the past 8 years that actuators like the 24inch (travel length) are at their maximum loadings capabilities.

Yea Yea, the manufacturers say all sorts of things for loading, but in general its the gear box that struggles, the 36v motor gets internally rusty etc etc. And from new I do necessary Modifications, But the big problem is moisture getting in.

So for me 16sq meters of sail is a max size, and yes they have been through a rated hurricane conditions even here in France 6 years ago.

I took a bit of design effort to get the actuating part to be in constant balance, but even so at max East and Max west the weight of the panels and frame can be severe.

I now see that 8 years later there are new actuators being manufactured that are a bit more industrial at reasonable cost effective prices.

Redrock in the US does a single axis kit unit LED sensor tracker control circuit that's reasonable price and comes ready for a 24v Actuator that can reverse.

............A 8 year old 2kW tracker with reconditioned Sharpe panels .......

Control for heating with solar off grid no batteries

....... My 3off 2kW Trackers.......

........ The field can still be used for animals........

clockmanFRA · « **Reply #143 on:** November 27, 2018, 04:17:32 AM »

The actuator threaded jack part.

Frank S · « **Reply #144 on:** November 27, 2018, 09:59:00 AM »

One other thing I noticed right away while drawing up the mock frame work last night was with your design you not only have to deal with the size of the sail but at the way you have positioned the hinge pivot you have created an additional amount of loading. think of it this way if you had a 10 lb sledge hammer and held the handle right at the head you could rotate your wrist from left to right with little effort compared to if you held the handle near the far end Most people except for professional weightlifters would find it impossible to lift the head that way and rotate it.

ontfarmer · « **Reply #145 on:** November 27, 2018, 06:43:09 PM »

I have not put anything in the conduit yet, but going to have some spare runs. I thought of controlling
it from the house but wanted to ask for ideas. You guys have a lot of knowledge.

Thanks for all the replies.

SparWeb · « **Reply #146 on:** November 27, 2018, 10:08:30 PM »

Frank is spot-on about the extra loading if it is elevated on a stand, but I suspect the two legs you have at one end are extended with 2 members that peak like an "A" to a hinge point on the spine, not down below the spine, like Frank modeled in CAD. Hinging on the spine is much better for loading and that takes some of my worry away.

As with any mount such as this, big triangles keep the load down, but also make the structural members long and skinny. Some balance between a sturdy point of attachment, and not reaching so far that the actuator bends, is what you are looking for. Oh, yes, and the stroke of the actuator travel has to be reasonable, too. So now that I've told you everything you already know (just working it out in my own head, really), here's what I would say:

Run another tube on the ribs, parallel to the main spine, that will be the attachment for the actuator. Attach it to all the ribs it passes. Size the stroke of the actuator to get the panels to travel far enough, and position the new tube where the actuator's maximum stroke can reach, minus a bit so that it doesn't run to the limit switch prematurely.

This is something I'd do by drawing it 100 times. I'm not sure I can put it all into words!

clockmanFRA · « **Reply #147 on:** November 28, 2018, 03:21:44 PM »

This is how I work the angles, travel and appropriate loadings out.

ontfarmer · « **Reply #148 on:** November 28, 2018, 05:06:57 PM »

Here is a better picture. I still have a few braces to put on. The one coming down from the main frame is going to have weight added to balance the load of the panels.

Mary B · « **Reply #149 on:** November 28, 2018, 05:23:55 PM »

Amateur radio operators use big dish antennas to bounce signals off the moon. A very off center load for the tracking system. As mentioned above use a counterweight so your system is balanced! Then the actuator only has to handle the wind loading! I had a 10 foot dish with no counterweight and in high winds it struggled because of no weight balance...

ontfarmer · « **Reply #150 on:** January 03, 2019, 08:44:30 AM »

Update on the solar. The controller is mounted in a box for protection from the elements.
The remote control will not work with the cover on. I would like to put a antenna on the controller that would extend through the box. Asking for help on doing this or maybe a different approach? Look forward to hearing from you. Here are some pictures.

Mary B · « **Reply #151 on:** January 03, 2019, 02:40:06 PM »

remote control for what?

OperaHouse · « **Reply #152 on:** January 03, 2019, 02:45:56 PM »

I did a search and couldn't find anything on google starting with MST though I did find a picture just as bad. That looks like a plastic box?

? So what is this module number?

ontfarmer · « **Reply #153 on:** January 03, 2019, 04:37:33 PM »

Hi Mary The remote control came as part of the package. I can manually change the position of the panels with it.

ontfarmer · « **Reply #154 on:** January 03, 2019, 04:48:36 PM »

Hi Opera The module number is WST03-5 That is a plastic box that I am using. I took a picture of the controller with the cover removed.

OperaHouse · « **Reply #155 on:** January 04, 2019, 09:02:44 AM »

I see that black dot in a square at the bottom of the board. So, this is a IR remote which requires line of sight. Move that outside and put a little light shield around it

Mary B · « **Reply #156 on:** January 04, 2019, 12:46:49 PM »

or use a light pipe, clear plastic rod with polished ends. Glue it to the cover so it is positioned over the IR sensor. Make sure the plastic used can transmit IR, polycarbonate should do it. Maybe even a clear polycarbonate window clued to the cover...

ontfarmer · « **Reply #157 on:** January 04, 2019, 05:36:44 PM »

I removed the IR remote from the board and mounted it outside of the box. You mentioned putting a little light shield around it , is this for protection from weather? Now it can be operated with the box closed. The manual says the remote control will operate for a distance of 10 meters.
The remote control had to be held very close to the controller to work, before it was touched. Is there something to increase the distance?

Mary I had this done before reading your post

OperaHouse · « **Reply #158 on:** January 05, 2019, 11:53:07 AM »

An interesting project would be to build a repeater. I always have junk around. That 3 pin sensor can be found in an old VCR and the LED from the remote. Just plant the LED inside the box. Remote sensor could possibly be connected with another 10M of wire. It always seems simple when you finally get a signal driver to work. I might have to try it.

Mary B · « **Reply #159 on:** January 06, 2019, 03:20:53 PM »

Wireless remote extender https://www.amazon.com/SIIG-Compact-Wireless-Extender-Repeater/dp/B072PY9H5Y/ref=sr_1_195?s=aht&ie=UTF8&qid=1546805866&sr=1-195&refinements=p_72%3A1248879011 there are others too but watch the reviews. I tried quite a few for my parents DirecTV system at the lake(before amazon was a thing...) before finding one that was consistent.

OperaHouse · « **Reply #160 on:** January 07, 2019, 08:26:07 AM »

Found an old VCR and I just built one for you. Haven't fully tested it yet. It is interesting. As with any AGC circuit, the gain winds up and produces nothing but noise till it locks onto a signal.

ontfarmer · « **Reply #161 on:** January 07, 2019, 05:51:31 PM »

That is good to hear. Look forward to how the testing goes. Was not much advantage of it being remote when you had to be right there.

OperaHouse · « **Reply #162 on:** January 08, 2019, 12:31:26 PM »

OO PS, I managed to short out the sensor and destroy it before testing was completed. I don't have as mich junk at home as camp. It may take some digging to find another one.

OperaHouse · « **Reply #163 on:** January 18, 2019, 09:01:15 AM »

No luck finding another one yet. Would taking the diode out of the hand remote and attaching that to a long wire be an option?

ontfarmer · « **Reply #164 on:** January 18, 2019, 05:20:31 PM »

I would like to keep the hand remote for now, got several things to do finishing it up the remote is very handy for that. I installed a shielded cable with four pair in it with the rest of the wires in the conduit. When it is complete would like to be able to control it from the house. Maybe use the wire for that or the repeater you mentioned? There is no rush very cold right now.

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Author Topic: Control for heating with solar off grid no batteries (Read 76399 times)