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10ft Other Power build
SparWeb:
Your third board does look like it has a twist in it, but let me go down to basics: You will have to accept unpredictable twists if you use solid boards with knots in them.
Dealing with this now, this way, may be a bit of tail-chasing since these boards may be too fresh to be done drying yet. They could continue to twist later.
That's the reason behind laminating wooden blades, which has been very good at stopping warpage in my blades.
I have lots of twisted lumber in my woodshed fine for building horse shelters but not so good for making WT blades.
To deal with the blades you're working on today, you could stick to getting the incidence angle of the tips the same on all 3.
Start by clamping the root ends of all 3 together in between two (flat) boards so that they're lined up like they would be on the hub.
Lay a straight edge along the tips, and use your protractor to check the angles of all 3. With numbers we can judge how much work it will take to fix.
hiker:
What about steam then clamp down to a flat surface ?
MattM:
actually, you can use heat treatment without steam to get any desired permanent shape to wood. You must seal them once they are heat treated to prevent further unintended warping, although you can expect very little. Think kiln drying. You need a form, preferably from metal, to give the desired shape. And you have to be careful not to burn them up if you choose to use open flame, which is the easiest method. Look up how skis are formed.
dnix71:
If you can build a good ski, you can build a good blade. Like SparWeb said, lamination is the key to uniformity and stability.
http://www.skibuilders.com/howto/skicon/lamination.shtml
kitestrings:
Those look like pressure treated 2-bys. If so they are pretty green - both in color and moisture, or preservative content. Like a deck, they will shrink, check and move quite a bit as they dry. I think the idea of clamping or pressing them ideally until they can dry would be a good first step.
Good luck, ~ks
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