Author Topic: duplicate small metal pieces  (Read 5174 times)

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dnix71

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duplicate small metal pieces
« on: June 01, 2019, 06:33:36 PM »
A neighbor gave me three non-working air nailers. One needed an o-ring, the second needed some small material removed from the nail driver to match where the connecting copper wires are on a spool of nails.

The third needed the driver assembly. The driver itself bent and snapped during a jam. The part is $30 to $60, but the complete tool is only $100. Buying a replacement part is not cost effective. I hand made a working copy, but wondered if there wasn't a better way. The original material could not be welded. Heat from welding ruins the temper and it would break just beyond the weld very easily.

If the piece didn't have keyway ridges die-stamping would be an option.
11859-0
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JW

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Re: duplicate small metal pieces
« Reply #1 on: June 01, 2019, 09:12:59 PM »
Quote
The original material could not be welded. Heat from welding ruins the temper and it would break just beyond the weld very easily.

The one way you could weld it is using a spot welder with a carbon rod/spot on front and back, you could use an 12volt battery

Im still trying to get my quotes right

Mary B

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Re: duplicate small metal pieces
« Reply #2 on: June 02, 2019, 02:42:30 PM »
Could CNC or laser cut that... but the cost of either would be prohibitive... go ahead and weld it then heat it to orange and quench to harden it... then use a toaster over to temper it...

dnix71

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Re: duplicate small metal pieces
« Reply #3 on: June 02, 2019, 07:53:09 PM »
I tried spot welding, but it broke just beyond the weld just like I was told. I did not try to heat and re-temper in a toaster oven.

How do you use a toaster oven to temper metal?

clockmanFRA

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Re: duplicate small metal pieces
« Reply #4 on: June 03, 2019, 03:46:27 AM »
I manufacture high carbon small components all the time.

A Brief concept.   I use traditional 100's of years old methods.

 High carbon steel we take to red/yellow heat and absolutely vertically, (or else distortion occurs), plunge into salt water with a thick covering of oil, (depends on the size of component). The steel is now glass hard and would shatter if dropped on something hard.  If this process is done to quickly then fractures in the steel can occur.
We now anneal the hardened steel, depending on the carbon content/quality of steel, but most steels will be very hard but not shatter at a deep BLUE colour.  Making springs the light bluing colour must be consistent.

BLUEING we call it, and yes there are many types of Blue colour, can take place in a tray of brass filings, which is heated underneath until a constant blue colour is seen that is even and throughout the complete component. Take your time as the metal bluing colour can change very quickly.

Welded components can be done. But the welding steels will need to be of a high carbon steel. After welding the whole component will require annealing/Blueing to relive any stress that have occurred so the whole component is now neutral. Now take up to cherry red and gently harden by plunging vertically a little slower and a thicker coating of oil.  Now everything is about the same hardness and stresses, now BLUE it evenly, hay presto the component is neutrally hardened and tempered and ready for use. But check all the component with the file test. Watch out for distortion.

Hardness testing... I use an old but sharp cut metal file, truly hard the file will just skate over the metal, blued the file will cut but its hard going, file cuts easily and bites, the metal is still soft. (when I purchase bearings, to make sure they are real hardened and tempered shells I use the file test, truly amazing to see how many fakes there are.)

There are many many variables with heat treatment of metals, I am just used to it and 40 years of experience.
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JW

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Re: duplicate small metal pieces
« Reply #5 on: June 03, 2019, 04:18:22 PM »
I have heard of quenching with used motor oil since it is carbon rich. Or will this cause a fire.

JW

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Re: duplicate small metal pieces
« Reply #6 on: June 03, 2019, 07:49:51 PM »
I want point out something, the oil will not catch fire until it reaches it flash point.

What to notice is the oil is like 100f it there can be quenching and wont ignite till the flash point is reached.

So the oil can be at 200f, still wont ignite because its not at its flash point which is about 550f

This also gives some interesting options for hardening flexibility...

SparWeb

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Re: duplicate small metal pieces
« Reply #7 on: June 03, 2019, 08:48:07 PM »
Clockman,
Thank you for that!

JW,
Not all oils are the same - especially used motor oil that can have all kinds of crud in it that's more flammable than the original oil.  You would probably do better with high-viscosity transmission/gear oil.  Based on the assumption that low-viscosity oils have shorter molecule "chains" which have a lower flash point.  Check my facts on this before you try it, though.

Also, you probably know this already, but I had to be told - when putting the part into the bath it's gotta go in straight, or in some way that it won't warp as one side is cooling before the other side.
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joestue

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Re: duplicate small metal pieces
« Reply #8 on: June 03, 2019, 08:56:35 PM »
a friend of mine quenches 5160 and 1095 in peanut oil. preheat the peanut oil btw.


i would not quench in cold gear oil, for various reasons. as for the oil catching fire.. it isn't a big deal, just anticipate it.
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JW

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Re: duplicate small metal pieces
« Reply #9 on: June 03, 2019, 09:26:43 PM »
I did a bit of research and ATF is a comenly used for heat treating metal. Never heard that before.

I had to learn this the hard way(flash point etc) I need heat transfer fluid to the engine I have, I commonly heated the fluid to about 450f. I remember the tech support guy told me make your heater exchangers see 4 gpm.
 

ontfarmer

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Re: duplicate small metal pieces
« Reply #10 on: June 05, 2019, 06:16:15 AM »
What is the concentration of  " salt - water "  solution?