If modification of the winding by connecting the five wires of one coil is series gives you a too high voltage, you can reduce the voltage by a factor 3 if you connect the three coil bundles of one phase in parallel in stead of in series. So compared to the original winding, the voltage is now increased by a factor 5/3. But now the whole modification becomes even more complex. It is a pity that one has used five wires in parallel for the original winding. I one should have used four wires in parallel, you could have doubled the voltage by connecting two wires in parallel and two bundles of two wires in series.
Thank you!, that was exactly my next question. Yes, I will try this on Stator 2, as it will still be much faster than rewinding, and should be able to leave the Hall sensors in place, in case I want to use a sensored controller. I will leave the first winding as modified, I've taken one apart (unwound one phase), and I'll mod this 3rd, which leaves me 1 unchanged as a reference, and one with an empty set of slots that I can try an alternative winding on if I'd like.
What I think I will do, as you suggest I think, is take each AaABbBCcC group AaA, and take it from 10T of 5, to 50T of 1. Then as you say, I have the option of runing the three of them in each group as parallel, or series, and delta or star. I think first I will go parallel star. Makes it quite flexible. I may be able to 3D print a nice little terminal block to sit inside the thing and give me perfectly consistent wire lengths.
I will have to decide on, and stick to a length for the interconnections. I think the poor waveform from these (under low load) is due to the unequal star connection length. I think I made it worse by using inconsistent lengths in my 10 to 50T conversion.
Does that make sense to anyone else, or does it seem like I'm making a bigger deal out of it than I should?
I'm glad I got the batch of 4. Great value for 120+30 shipping CAD$
I suspect that all this will not be needed with the right controller. Some of what I'm reading on RC ESC controllers is suggesting that the regenerative brake features on some of the off road racing involving, technical downhill crawling competition with fairly heavy remote control cars , has the features needed, including adjustable braking curve, and dynamic adjustment as well as data logging and even bluetooth control. It can also use the built in Hall sensor to adjust the drive for efficiency, and can get take very high torque at low rpm, and charge the RC battery, similar to what I am doing, but with fancy electronics that allow you to leave the higher current capacity in place.
Interesting details,
The Magnet array, I believed as did Adriaan, that there must be an embeded iron ring/bell hidden.
I do not think so now, I think this is a quite sophisticated Halbach array. I've examined a gap between magnets, under some magnification, in a spot where there is a 0.25 mm or so gap, as assembly clearance I guess, or perhaps there was a slightly undersized magnet in this array.. It is clear the whole inside face is machined aluminum. There is not change in the surface from the outside edge to the inside. The distance between the inside face and the screws that attach the flange is only 1.3 mm, so any steel ring embedded would have to have been perfectly positioned. Also, the magnetic viewing film shows a very strong inward facing field, almost nothing facing outward. Iron isn't attracted at all to the outside of the rotor, and the aluminum case measures to be approximately 12.5mm thick, from inside of magnets, to what used to be the bottom of the inner tube well.
Mounting, no ideal flange, but some possibilities.
The outer bearing plate mounts with 8 x 4mm stainless screws. This plate could be replaced with a made to suit version, thicker. Also, If you do as I did, it's quite easy to use the wheel as a lathe, with an RC controller, and cut down one, or both flanges, so you have a smooth drum, or a drum with a single flange, as I have done. An important detail is that the outer surface of the magnet rotor/rim is flat, the inside, where the wire bead seats, isn't quite flat. I may machine mine flat though. It's pretty easy to do with a file while the thing is running. I'm going to drill the edge of the rim, where the bead used to seat, with 32 holes, and have an interesting structural arrangement planned, so that my 3D printed rotor survives the side pressure. Too complicated to get into here, now.
I wonder if you saw this