I'm glad you like the coils and the rest of the parts.
I made a couple of mock up coils to demonstrate a way to attach them to the stator form.
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)
I used pieces of silicone rubber tubing to lock them in place. The silicone tolerates very high temperature. Any kind of silicone will do, you can get it from oven mittens, exercise bands or baking mats.
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)
Cover the bottom of the form with tape, then place the stator form with the coils on a flat and level surface and then slowly pour in the epoxy. I use MG Chemicals 832C high temperature epoxy. Vinyl ester also tolerates high temperatures and is cheaper but it is hard to find in small quantities. They usually sell it by the gallon.
(Attachment Link)
After I filled the gap, I brushed a thin coat of epoxy on the entire coil, both sides.
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)
I don't have a 3D printer and I have no idea how much temperature the filament material can take.
On the form that I posted above, I allowed a gap of about 3 mm between the coils and stator form. I hope that that is enough separation to keep the form from getting too hot and warping or melting.
Once you get the timing belt, the fun will begin.
Any questions, just ask.
Ed
Now this technique I really dig! That was the very first issue of mine as I analyzed a way to insert the coils into stator mold after printing it.
How to keep them centered for potting them in epoxy. Problem solved, thank you!
And as for materials, with an FDM printer, you can print tool quality parts. FDM means Fused Deposition Modelling. ( heating material and depositing on the model )
And, the cheapest sub 200 USD printer, I bought it because it totally pwns the Dremal, Ultimaker or any other multi thousand dollar printer out there. I know it sounds
like fish oil, but its a fact. The quality that is gotten from a well turned Ender 3, the plain version is astounding. You would be very limited to materials with a stock ender 3 out of the box.
But, I have added a glass bed, later on will be a sensor that auto levels down to the micron levels.
I swapped out all my brass nozzles for Carbide Tungsten, I managed to acquire a set of 5 right from Creality for 20 dollars! ranging from 0.2mm all the way to 0.6mm. And one reaaal bad
70 dollar carbide tungsten 0.4mm which is the Rolls Royce of printer nozzles. This has opened up very abrasive materials. Next, would be what's called a ALL METAL HOT END.
The stock hot end for creality ender 3 limits to you about a 230-250 Celsius ceiling. And even than, the bowden tube, which is what guides the material into the hot end and nozzle. That would start to smell when it gets really warm. Which means its breaking down, It will fail quickly. So that can be replaced, with the hot end, which than opens up a much higher temperature range.
Now, this is where FDM tech starts to really show its disruptive nature. You can now print, Nylon mixed with Carbon Fiber, Nylon with Carbon Fiber Nano tubes. or straight Carbon Fiber.,
And, you can also print Kevlar. Or any of the above mentioned materials mixed in many other materials. You can also even print materials that have nano diamond now.
Some of these materials are extremely heat resistant, stiff, impact resistant. And can make tool quality parts. As a matter of fact, The material called NylonX is being referred to as
Black Aluminum due to the strength of the stuff.
I now know for a fact, that I can fully 3d print a fully core less, fully yoke less permanent magnet generator. The only parts of it that wont be printed will be the coils, the expoxy, magnets and the bearings. Maybe even the bearings can be possible be printed by using thrust style bearings. Thrust needle bearings. The shaft/axle can also be 3d printed to spec. Now, at this point, no reason why even the tools such as the wrenches can be printed. Maybe if one is good enough with cad, even the bolts can be printed using a 0.2 mm nozzle, or 0.3 m nozzle.
There is even electrically conductive materials, which I would like to research as to how much amperage they can handle. Due to the fact that the Ender 3 can be modded to have a second extruder. I envision 3d printing a stator mold that literally slides into a ring with bus bars pre printed and just have to solder little gaps. Btw, the end result looks like its really really cool Matte Black. The youtube vid I watched showing this, shown a turbo charger impellor!.
Now, I just got my ender 3 bed belt repped, and retorqued all my belts really tight, and am printing a print in place parallel twin motor cycle engine thats supposed to be able to turn the cranks and cylinder. No assembly required.
For the magnet rotors, the drawback is having to use extra neodymes due to no metal or iron in the back plate. So, every pole requires 90 degree oriented magnets to create a halbach array,.
Of which, to that I have a super serious question that i cannot find the answer from reading oodles and oodles of thesis docs about axial magnetic machines, and the question is this -
Generally, the inductor coil inside hole always is the same size as the outside diameter of the magnet being used in the magnet rotors yes?
But using a halbach array, the magnet pole is now widened by the magnets at 90 degree orientation.
Could the coil inside hole now be as wide as the magnet and the two on each side of it?
Wish I had a pic to show my thoughts, some times they are hard to put into words. If any confusion as to what I mean, I can hand draw out what I mean to clarify it,
