Formulas and calculators > Coil winding
Motorbike stator winding done wrong?
TechAdmin:
Hello! I'm gonna post here not as an admin but rather as a very very newbie user compared to everyone else, so please be gentle with me, I love electricity but I am not an expert in this particular area :)
So I had a stator (3 phases) for my motorbike that shorted. The stator is connected to a voltage regulator which is also a converter from AC to DC, which then connects to the battery.
I got a new voltage regulator on top of stator because I thought it was gone along with the stator (which was clearly burnt).
After I got this new voltage regulator and plugged everything correctly, the battery still wouldn't charge... I got the stator regenerated by someone rather than buying the original one, but I start to suspect it to be the real issue, since I sent the regulator back for testing and it tested fine.
The engine obviously works so the thingy powering the stator up works fine, along with the battery itself (tested 2 different ones).
I tested each phase of the stator and they were all giving very similar results both for resistance and voltage... Resistance was very low (0.4/0.5 Ohm), whereas voltage could reach over 60V/70V AC by revving the engine up (it's a 1000cc sportsbike rocket).
I also bypassed all the bike cables (straight from voltage regulator to battery) to avoid any chances of it being a dispersion somewhere else, so I am quite positive by now that it's the stator being faulty and repaired badly.
Do you guys have any ideas? Sorry if I am such a newbie once again ::) and thanks in advance for any input!
SparWeb:
Hi
A few questions before I can point to anything for sure.
Does your stator have a high voltage and low voltage windings? Or just one set of windings?
Do you have a multimeter with a diode test setting?
You've checked the stator AC output enough that, for now, let's say the stator is good. The regulator is my next place to look. After that, check for good grounds.
TechAdmin:
--- Quote from: SparWeb on February 21, 2021, 06:14:22 PM ---Hi
A few questions before I can point to anything for sure.
Does your stator have a high voltage and low voltage windings? Or just one set of windings?
--- End quote ---
I think it's just one set, 3 phases with one cable each wound up a billion times... I do have a picture somewhere...
Here, this was the older one and obviously shorted. Newer one isn't much different design-wise, just obviously... Not burnt ;D
--- Quote from: SparWeb on February 21, 2021, 06:14:22 PM ---Do you have a multimeter with a diode test setting?
--- End quote ---
I do have a multimeter with diode test setting :) I did test all 3 phases and none of them are shorted to one another or to the ground (bike hull). I can actually link you the tests:
//www.youtube.com/watch?v=OntzOvFK2kcUnfortunately it's in Italian, and at the time I was sure it was in working condition but heh...
--- Quote from: SparWeb on February 21, 2021, 06:14:22 PM ---You've checked the stator AC output enough that, for now, let's say the stator is good. The regulator is my next place to look. After that, check for good grounds.
--- End quote ---
The point is just that, I had the regulator shipped back to the guy who sold it to me for testing, he tested it and works perfectly fine (yes it's the same, I had marked it). I only have the original one at hand right now, which I had thought to be broken but since the newer one didn't work either it left me in this "what?!" condition.
I had also made custom cables to connect directly the regulator to the battery, bypassing all sorts of bike circuits and eliminating possible dispersion chances. Those cables were also tested and fine...
Also thanks for the reply, everyone involved is clueless at the moment. Myself, workshop mechanics, regulator seller, stator seller.
SparWeb:
OK, I see your AC tests from the stator, and your friend was holding the RPM's pretty constant all 3 times and you saw about the same AC voltage on each phase. So I'd say the stator's good.
Moving to the regulator, set your meter to its diode test setting. On some meters you may have to move the leads to other connection sockets. You'll figure it out. Test each phase to positive, and each phase to negative. If you don't know which way is which, then reverse the leads and do those tests again. Also, switch to resistance and test continuity from each phase to positive and each phase to negative. That's about 18 separate checks. If you know exactly what you're doing and have everything neatly diagrammed out, then you don't have to waste time on some of these checks and cut the list down to 9. If you haven't tested a VR before, then I'm basically telling you to measure everything and anything, even the pointless combinations. If you can write down all of the results I can sort it out later.
TechAdmin:
--- Quote from: SparWeb on February 21, 2021, 07:45:26 PM ---OK, I see your AC tests from the stator, and your friend was holding the RPM's pretty constant all 3 times and you saw about the same AC voltage on each phase. So I'd say the stator's good.
--- End quote ---
That was actually my mother ;D
--- Quote from: SparWeb on February 21, 2021, 07:45:26 PM ---Moving to the regulator, set your meter to its diode test setting. On some meters you may have to move the leads to other connection sockets. You'll figure it out. Test each phase to positive, and each phase to negative. If you don't know which way is which, then reverse the leads and do those tests again. Also, switch to resistance and test continuity from each phase to positive and each phase to negative. That's about 18 separate checks. If you know exactly what you're doing and have everything neatly diagrammed out, then you don't have to waste time on some of these checks and cut the list down to 9. If you haven't tested a VR before, then I'm basically telling you to measure everything and anything, even the pointless combinations. If you can write down all of the results I can sort it out later.
--- End quote ---
The problem is I have done I think all of these for both regulators, new and old. New one test video is here:
//www.youtube.com/watch?v=YBmRxRhk_0Ustill wouldn't work on my bike. The one in the video is the seller's bike, but the battery does charge... (Standard 12v battery, fully charged roughly 13.1, while charging it should be about 14v as in the video, mine stays below 13 at all times).
I'll still do what you ask probably tomorrow, I'm sort of busy with a crazy big board work (1.6m+ posts) as of late but trying to get stuff done too. Thanks again for your help so far!
Navigation
[0] Message Index
[#] Next page
Go to full version