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work on the shop
tanner0441:
Hi
Can't beat a well lit warm workshop. I had a culture shock on my third job after leaving school School was warm and comfortable. My first job was with ICI, warm and comfortable, second job radio and TV repairs, warm and comfortable, but the company went the way of many TV shops in the 50s.
Then I felt like a change so I went to work on commercial vehicals. 1963 the UK had a winter to remember, everything froze. When we aproached the powers that be for more heat in the workshop we were told..."If we are getting cold, we are not working hard enough." We were issued with blow lamps to thaw the frozen diesel lines though.
I wonder how they would get away with saying that now with all the employment laws.....
Brian
SparWeb:
--- Quote ---"If we are getting cold, we are not working hard enough."
--- End quote ---
I can just hear the scottish burr accent.
2-zones. Good point, I didn't think of that.
kitestrings:
Good questions, and observations. The building has two car bays on the left, and the larger shop bay on the right.
None of it is complete yet, but the plan is...
The family room/kid-cave/guest suite is above the unheated car bays, where the dormers are.
It's a larger, nicer space overall. So, on this section the floor is spray foamed. Upstairs we spray-foamed the gable ends and the knee wall. We had planned to then insulate the ceiling with fiberglass or rock wool. We've since reconsidered and are going to also spray the (cathedral) ceilings, but I didn't want the foam directly against the steel roofing. We've applied this thin foam/sheeting called "fan-fold" on the underside of the ribbing, and now it can be foamed. This way the steel could eventually be replaced (thought that won't be in my lifetime).
There are many factors that played into this... the spray foam is great, but very expensive, and we just couldn't do it all. Fiberglass is, or was, comparatively cheap, but prone to rodents nesting in it, especially with all the entry point that corrugated steel present. My plan had been to do 3/4" v-groove across the rafters (4' O.C) and thus avoid strapping. Rock wool is heavier and has gotten pricey.
The shop bay has higher a ceiling, so less space above. The shop ceiling is insulated, but the upstairs area above it is cold storage.
There will be a lot of times when the shop will be heated, but the family room not, so I added the site built, insulated sliding doors. This is the first winter I've really ever had a heated shop. I've kept it at 45 degF all winter this year.
We didn't have a garage for years, but I swore when I built one it would be big enough to use, store, etc... and not have the cars parked in the yard because they don't fit.
MattM:
Steel roofing is such a light load there is no reason to remove one when applying a new roof. Add new underlayment over the old one. Add diagonal battens. Some people go horizontals and that is okay. On a batten it only holds as well as the material you fasten into, so diagonal avoids relying on weak points such as from a bad rafter. You can even drop in foam between batten and add another underlayment over batten and foam for a smooth surface. Then secure your roofing to the batten.
kitestrings:
The rafters are 4' OC, then there is 2x4 perpendicular ribbing 2' OC; there really is no substrate. We were admittedly focused on building a garage/shop initially. The finished spaces seemed a long ways away. Time flies and here we are. A new roof over is possible, but means a lot of extra trim work at the gables, eaves & cornices. All of the roof trim on this building I did with the same back-enamel materials to avoid painting. I'd rather pull it off, and not have the insulation come with it. It may never be in my lifetime, but I rather not have my children swearing at me after I'm gone ;).
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