Steam Engines > Refrigeration
Steca Freezer down
kitestrings:
We had crazy rains and flooding here in VT, which normally is not a problem as we are quite high in elevation. The pace and volume of the rain though caused a localized issue in our basement/crawlspace. Water from the roof eaves followed the ledge and managed to rise about 2" up on our freezer (it's on a crate or it would have been more).
The unit is a Steca PF166 12/24V DC which uses a Danfoss DB50F compressor thru a 101N0300 controller; we run it on 24V. I found the fuse was blown, but after drying things a bit that is now holding, but it still does not start. I've got things opened and a hair dryer on it to try to get any water/moisture out. So far the panel illuminates and the compressor gets a little bump each time I connect power. I'm not sure if it is just the control that this is buggered, or the compressor.
These compressors have a 3-pin connector, and I assume I should be able to power the compressor directly - with a fuse - to rule out one of the two components. My older fridge/freezer had a 4-pin, so I'm not sure that I have a schematic/key.
I welcome any advice. ~ks
kitestrings:
This was helpful. It's looking like the controller...
https://coastalclimatecontrol.com/component/edocman/232-so-what-makes-you-think-your-compressor-is-bad/viewdocument/232?Itemid=0
DanG:
The electronic controller boosts the 12/24VDC to 300V pulses, there is a potentiometer they use to vary duty cycles, say to compensate for tropical environments... Anyhow, moisture intrusion could have killed or confused the logic so inspection & solvent drying the switches / pots and reseating dried connectors might pay off.
There are places that will rebuild or accept the core to swap for rebuilt controller box : board.
Also the worldwide yacht / sail community will have seen ghis many times, here is one forum I've followed, worth time searching there:
https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f115/
kitestrings:
Thanks Dan.
Here's a quick update -
I checked the resistance on the three pins of the compressor. They appear to be in ~2 ohm range, and there was no continuity to the case. So, I took the controller out of our fridge/freezer (upstairs) and tried it on this freezer. It's not an exact match, but it fired up the compressor - perhaps not at the optimal speed - but at least enough to confirm component.
This controller is an older AEO type (Automatic Energy Optimization, I think) and has been discontinued...
but I found this bulletin, and the replacement listed (xx320) was available on e-bay, so I've got one coming.
https://www.rparts.com/documents/discontinued_electronic_unit_101N0300_04-2010_en100g102.pdf
This unit looks to have some corrosion and/or signs of arcing in the lower back section.
I think some years back I found a place that repaired these, but it was in Australia iirc, so might not be worth the round-trip fare.
OperaHouse:
It wouldn't have gone bad if the power has been removed. I know a small electronics company. When they investigated commercial circuit board cleaners, they ended up buying just a dishwasher. But, when dirty water meets electricity the traces get eaten away. You can see that on the lower FET the trace being eaten away. That makes it so nobody will touch it. Those controllers are unbelievably cheap. As the patron saint of lost electronics, I'd be trying to fix it.
Navigation
[0] Message Index
[#] Next page
Go to full version