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User Diaries / Re: Score of a life time!
« Last post by XeonPony on February 18, 2024, 10:32:38 AM »Looks like you are going to have a god shearing this spring!
It is all ways entertaining, my hands ache thinking of it.
Looks like you are going to have a god shearing this spring!
Hello Lars,
Have you set up with wind turbine outdoors in the wind yet?
NEVER RUN A WIND TURBINE UNLOADED.
The most important neighbor in my case is the wife.
The nastiest noise I've ever had was when the top of a tube was being rubbed. Kind of like the sound a glass makes when you wet your finger and do circles across the top. Only about 1,000x louder.
Isn't the RPM area for a given turbine only determined by the rotor size? I understand that a wind turbine harvests the most energy from the wind if it operates at the optimum tip speed ratio (typically around 7 for a three-blade HAWT). If the wind speed is 10 m/s, the tip speed should ideally be 70 m/s, which corresponds to a specific RPM for a given rotor size. A small turbine would have to spin faster to operate at TSR=7. This logic is further elaborated in my original post. I think this is the core of my problem, so please tell me if I'm missing something here.
Thank you for the generator suggestion MagnetJuice. I have also been looking at this one:
ebay.co.uk/itm/235042332008?chn=ps&_ul=GB&var=534977374051&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-169684-097358-0&mkcid=2&itemid=534977374051_235042332008&targetid=293946777986&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=1010976&poi=&campaignid=20649918451&mkgroupid=151788312862&rlsatarget=pla-293946777986&abcId=&merchantid=6995734&gclid=Cj0KCQiAw6yuBhDrARIsACf94RV3voAhQUyhNRR0LcWsCQCp3uWbPtWYMEVdzHyCNEoHbJthoCFvIxwaAqJVEALw_wcB
I have also another question. Some of you are talking about the cut-in speed where the generator will output 12V. Is there a problem with just using a buck-boost converter?
Greetings,
Lars Erik
When I try to upload a pic im getting "fakepath" in the link to uploadIntended.
so I have managed to keep my neighbor's from revolting against me by overdosing both bearings with WD40.
Attachments: Trailer Hub.jpg Trailer Hub.jpg
Attachments: mini axiaal.JPG mini axiaal.JPG
With air core coils cogging isn't an issue to worry about!
The way your top and bottom allow leakage out of the blade is a must. Its okay to have holes in your blades, preferably to only induce enough drag to get the result you want. Human nature leads us to create cups, but if the air cannot leak then stagnant air gathers at the blade. The leakage allows stagnated air to clear the blade. The barrel-conversion savonius designs often prevent this leakage and it kills efficiency. The air should flow around the blade rather than be stopped/blocked by it. You want that clean air to be accessible to the blade.
NOPE! That is a much much smarter Bruce , his moniker was Bruce DownUnder.
At the end of the article it states special thanks to Bruce! Was that you BruceS by any chance?
pfff a sigh of relieve.
I had the probe on wrong and also the wire ends weren't sanded enough to make the probe latch reliably.
(Attachment Link)
So false alarm thus far. Still no signs of interference.
BTW Mary, if all results are already in of this design, Ed suggested me to take a look at, then how can I be of help giving those a once over?
Is it that perhaps making use of a tesla meter can give some new insights?
Anyways may I please have the link to where this work has been done before me so I can learn and potentially see what Ed meant with how I can be of benefit?
{1}the reason why the waves are rather erratic is most likely because the wires were vibrating as they were banged at while the magnets spun over them.{/1}
With air core coils cogging isn't an issue to worry about! Why iron core has been tried and not used.
For what you are doing get an F&P setup here http://www.randysworkshop.net/order.html and use it to play with your mechanical design, once that is perfected THEN see if you can improve on the alternator part of the equation! The F&P as is will crank out some decent voltage at low RPM, I spun one up by hand and lit a 100 watt 120 volt light bulb! 60RPM = 18 volts! https://www.fieldlines.com/index.php?topic=149388.0 Gear up your design to spin it faster and see better output! Stack 2 or even 3 assemblies if you have the torque and series it for low RPM higher voltage...
Playing with an F&P will teach you about cogging too and how much torque it takes to over come it.
The rotor setup that you build for testing should have only 8 magnets per disk.
The magnet wire should be between .9mm and 1.3mm. No smaller or bigger than that. That wire size can also be used for the big alternator for your VAWT.
The magnets that you showed on the links are the wrong proportions.
A magnet like this will work for testing and will also work for your big multipole alternator for your VAWT.
https://enesmagnets.pl/en/permanent-magnets/neodymium-sintered/block-magnets/50-x-20-x-20-n35-ndfeb-neodymium-magnet.html
pfff a sigh of relieve.
I had the probe on wrong and also the wire ends weren't sanded enough to make the probe latch reliably.
(Attachment Link)
So false alarm thus far. Still no signs of interference.
BTW Mary, if all results are already in of this design, Ed suggested me to take a look at, then how can I be of help giving those a once over?
Is it that perhaps making use of a tesla meter can give some new insights?
Anyways may I please have the link to where this work has been done before me so I can learn and potentially see what Ed meant with how I can be of benefit?
{1}the reason why the waves are rather erratic is most likely because the wires were vibrating as they were banged at while the magnets spun over them.{/1}