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Its a modified Lenz, so its a different scoop design. The point of the link is to show how massive the pulley ratio he went with. I personally would have gone two smaller stages using chains, but that is just my preference. It was going to be loud regardless of the choice.This guy went with an exterior scoop, and its a pretty similar radius IMO.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h-FqF21wyLc
Notice his pulley size.
That is a lift/drag type wing, a different design philosophy...
Yea guys, I agree that he should learn at least some basic electricity.
However, I recalled that he said a couple of times before that he has some difficulties learning from reading text.
There is still a lot that can be learned by watching videos and by personal experience.
That is one of the reasons that I recommended to him to build a small alternator.
brandnewb,
If you get the magnets and the steel plates that you ordered, hold on before you start assembling things. It has to be done in a certain order and a certain way.
Ed
This guy went with an exterior scoop, and its a pretty similar radius IMO.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h-FqF21wyLc
Notice his pulley size.
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Looks like you are going to have a god shearing this spring!
Hello Lars,
Have you set up with wind turbine outdoors in the wind yet?
NEVER RUN A WIND TURBINE UNLOADED.
The most important neighbor in my case is the wife.
The nastiest noise I've ever had was when the top of a tube was being rubbed. Kind of like the sound a glass makes when you wet your finger and do circles across the top. Only about 1,000x louder.
Isn't the RPM area for a given turbine only determined by the rotor size? I understand that a wind turbine harvests the most energy from the wind if it operates at the optimum tip speed ratio (typically around 7 for a three-blade HAWT). If the wind speed is 10 m/s, the tip speed should ideally be 70 m/s, which corresponds to a specific RPM for a given rotor size. A small turbine would have to spin faster to operate at TSR=7. This logic is further elaborated in my original post. I think this is the core of my problem, so please tell me if I'm missing something here.
Thank you for the generator suggestion MagnetJuice. I have also been looking at this one:
ebay.co.uk/itm/235042332008?chn=ps&_ul=GB&var=534977374051&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-169684-097358-0&mkcid=2&itemid=534977374051_235042332008&targetid=293946777986&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=1010976&poi=&campaignid=20649918451&mkgroupid=151788312862&rlsatarget=pla-293946777986&abcId=&merchantid=6995734&gclid=Cj0KCQiAw6yuBhDrARIsACf94RV3voAhQUyhNRR0LcWsCQCp3uWbPtWYMEVdzHyCNEoHbJthoCFvIxwaAqJVEALw_wcB
I have also another question. Some of you are talking about the cut-in speed where the generator will output 12V. Is there a problem with just using a buck-boost converter?
Greetings,
Lars Erik
When I try to upload a pic im getting "fakepath" in the link to uploadIntended.
so I have managed to keep my neighbor's from revolting against me by overdosing both bearings with WD40.
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With air core coils cogging isn't an issue to worry about!
The way your top and bottom allow leakage out of the blade is a must. Its okay to have holes in your blades, preferably to only induce enough drag to get the result you want. Human nature leads us to create cups, but if the air cannot leak then stagnant air gathers at the blade. The leakage allows stagnated air to clear the blade. The barrel-conversion savonius designs often prevent this leakage and it kills efficiency. The air should flow around the blade rather than be stopped/blocked by it. You want that clean air to be accessible to the blade.