Generator completed but hard to turn...

[dblais]

I finalt finished my generator, prototype state.

Generator spec:
61 turn 17 AVG
2 rotor disk
20 * 2 magnet (20 pole, 40 magnet)
Magnet round 1inch
15 coils 61 turn. Hole is 1 inch, leg is  about 1/2 inch.
Air gap about 1/2 inch

I want to know if is normal if the generator is hard to turn by hand when i plug a 12v halogen light bulb. The most i can get by when with visegrip is 4.5v and 2 amp.

When i put nothing i get 14v very easily.

I tried to put the light bulb on only one phase and it still hard to turn.

Do you think is because the light bulb close the circuit and act like a brake on the system? Or do you think is not normal and is because my coil/magnet are miss placed?

Thank you!

David 

[dblais]

Here my template

fixed the attachment for ya

[snake21]

if you connect a bulb directly to the turbine,it will act as a brake,and obviously,it will   be hard to turn.there is a load on the turbine and the the amps and voltage will be low

[dblais]

So it's normal? Or i'm doing something wrong?

There is something that i don't understand...  My 9 watt (4.5v*2amp) seem to be too small compared to the force that i use to turn the generator. I can't imagine to get 200w/300w from the wind or water this way...

Thank you

David

[joestue]

how fast are you turning it?

9 watts is 9 newton meters of torque at 1rad/sec..

or 6.5 foot pounds at 9.5 rpm.

[dblais]

May be 75 - 100 RPM!

[jlt]

It looks like a magnet spacing problem. Mags should be spaced  the same distance apart.

[jlt]

Looking at it again that might not be the problem. The picture is hard to see with the same size circles.

[tanner0441]

Hi

Have you spun it over without a load on? There should be no resistance to turning apart from bearing drag.  When you have the unit in a battery charging system there will be no load until the speed reaches cut it, then the resistance to turning will be proportional to charging current.  If you have a bulb connected then there is a load from the moment it starts to produce current.

Do you have a cordless drill you can put on the shaft to run it up with?

Brian

[dblais]

Hi

Have you spun it over without a load on? There should be no resistance to turning apart from bearing drag.  When you have the unit in a battery charging system there will be no load until the speed reaches cut it, then the resistance to turning will be proportional to charging current.  If you have a bulb connected then there is a load from the moment it starts to produce current.

Do you have a cordless drill you can put on the shaft to run it up with?

Brian

Without load there is no resistance. When plug the bulb, the rotation stop rapidly.

Yes i tried with a drill (corded). I get good voltage but i don't feel the efficiency. May be there is no problem......

When, i plug a small led. The link blink. Easy to turn by hand... Also i replaced my 6 Diode by 6 Led, and it's to flash correctly.

[dblais]

There is a thing that i 'm not sure is the coil wiring. I wired each coil all clockwise. Is that correct?

 

[electrondady1]

yes that is the correct way to wire each phase.
for an experiment, put a lever on the output shaft the same length as the blades you want to use.
that will give an indication of the force required.

[Simen]

I'd say everything is normal.

As other have said, with a resistive load, like a lamp, the generator will feel resistance from the start; if you connect the generator to a 12V battery, you'll discover that it's easy to turn until the generator reaches the battery voltage; then you'ld feel resistance.

Now, put some blades on the generator, hook it up to a battery; find some wind, and experience the feeling when the amps start to tick into the battery!

[dblais]

Here my last verification! I have 6 pins outside my epoxy stator (in yellow). Does the coils order, direction, wire are correct and how should i connect them?

Star
1E 2E 3E together
Wire 1 = 1S
Wire 2 = 2S
Wire 3 = 3S


Star
Wire 1 = 1S and 2E
Wire 2 = 2S and 3E
Wire 3 = 3S and 1E


Sorry for this ugly drawing!




Thank you!

[dblais]

Anyone?

 

[PaulJ]

"Star
1E 2E 3E together
Wire 1 = 1S
Wire 2 = 2S
Wire 3 = 3S"

This is the correct wiring for star, the other option you gave is delta.

Paul.

[Flux]

It is normal for it to be hard to turn with a load.

With a decent crank handle so that you can turn it effectively you will be hard pushed to generate 100W with the load correctly matched and an efficient alternator.

With no decent means to turn it, bad load matching and a comparatively small alternator your 9W is likely to be quite close to the mark.

Don't underestimate the power from the prop of even a fairly small wind turbine in a good wind. For hydro you will be running much faster and the torque will be lower but you need a reasonable sized hydro set up to get a few hundred watts.

If it is free to turn on no load and you get the correct open circuit volts at you cut in speed all is well with the alternator. As others have said there will be no load below cut in when charging batteries so your prop will be able to start and get out of stall before the load comes on.

Flux

[willib]

I like your template , it looks the way a lot of mine look.
The conditions you have described are all normal  , if you attach a rectifier and a battery to your alternator you will see it is working properly.

[galeforce jones]

Hi, the starts that you call 1e 2e 3e should be connected together for your star connection 1s 2s 3s can be connected to a three phase rectifier in any order on the a/c input side you can put a volt meter on the d/c side with no load connected for this test, rotate the alt, read the volts, the faster it turns more volts.