Author Topic: MX Solar Brand (Read 7882 times)

WindTurbineGuy · « **on:** August 08, 2012, 09:50:40 PM »

Any feedback on solar panels form a company named "MX Solar" from New Jersey?

nekit · « **Reply #1 on:** August 12, 2012, 02:48:44 PM »

I just bought 6kw of MX panels from a company in Michigan City, IN off of eBay. They seem pretty nice quality. I have 4kw of Evergreen panels and I would say they are of similar quality to them.

MX solar has laid off all their workers and will probably be out of business soon, so the warranty probably will be no good. Not much that can go wrong with solar panels and at .85/watt I'll take the chance.

I don't have them installed yet.

If you buy them from the same place I did, they don't come with the electric cord whips and you'll need to make you own with Tyco connectors.

Hope this helps.

SolarFlare · « **Reply #2 on:** August 24, 2012, 09:10:08 AM »

Thank you for your reply.

My panels arrived, or should I say 19 of 20, 240 watt panels arrived. A quick call to Solar Blvd got that straightened out, and they sent out a replacement. Upon further exam, 1 panel had significant manufacture defects (i.e. broken cell, one cell covered by another loose chip and was imbeded). So, 2 new panels were shipped and things should be fine now.

Couple of hitches, but at .85 / watt, no big deal. Ultimately I paid $110 for the defective panel.

gww · « **Reply #3 on:** August 24, 2012, 10:33:50 AM »

I just recieved 6 panels also. $0.92 per watt delivered. I didn't know I had to put my own cord on them When I bought them. The mc connectors are not that cheep. can anybody get a good deal on small amounts? One of mine came with the glass on backwords. kind of bumpy. Will this affect anything? At least one of mine had a chipped cell and a tabbing wire bent and touching a different cell and pushing almost through the tedlar backing. I took it out in light sun light and got 34 volts unloaded. Just checking for shorts.
I don't know If I'm happy or not but I guess you can't beat the price and they look as though they will last longer the my homemade panels.
gww

SolarFlare · « **Reply #4 on:** August 25, 2012, 10:33:21 AM »

If you have the MX Solar panels, these are typically Tyco SolarLoc connectors. Look on Ebay for deals. I bought a hydraulic crimper from Harbor Freight. Tyco crimpers are very expensive. Doubt the glass will cause much of a problem other than getting dirty easier.

Sounds like MX is closing down, so quality was not job#1.

Hope this helps.

gww · « **Reply #5 on:** August 25, 2012, 02:44:29 PM »

Solarflare
Thanks I feel a little better now. Cheapest I saw on ebay was about 20 bucks for 5 sets.
gww

gww · « **Reply #6 on:** August 30, 2012, 06:33:53 PM »

So I buy the right thing would that be the mc4 connectors? Do mc3 and mc4 connectors interchange with each other? Can they be used with normal 10 or 12 gage flex wire?
Thank you
gww

nekit · « **Reply #7 on:** September 01, 2012, 01:13:18 PM »

You need TYCO connectors. Not MC3 or MC4. I bought them direct from china here http://www.aliexpress.com/product-gs/535576557-USA-Standar-Factory-Direct-50Pairs-Tyco-Solar-Connector-Tyco-Connector-Tyco-PV-Connector-TUV-Certified-wholesalers.html

You'll need just the female connectors. You can send them a message and they will alter the order to just female. I got 56 of the females for $60 shipped via DHL. They arrived in about a week and seem decent quality. They only have negative connectors, so you'll have to file off the plastic tit on half of the connectors, then they work for positive.

Hope this helps.

gww · « **Reply #8 on:** September 01, 2012, 04:38:21 PM »

nekit
do I need to by the cable also or can I use 12 gage flex wire?
I thank you for your responce and the link
gww

dbcollen · « **Reply #9 on:** September 01, 2012, 04:41:02 PM »

Nekit,

Why would you need only the female connectors? You need both, 1 for positive, the other for negative. Actually you need 2 pairs per panel, one pair for the panel, and the other for branch wiring. MC4 connectors are fine as well, code calls for a "locking" connector. There are many locking pv connectors, MC4 is the most common presently.

gww · « **Reply #10 on:** September 01, 2012, 05:00:26 PM »

dbcollen
I just went to my garage and shined a light in the panel connect location and the negative and positive holes both have metal nipples in the center of the hole. As you can tell I don't know crap. I would like to buy the right thing as cheeply as posible. It would also be better for me if I am able to wire with normal flex wire as I could get the lengths correct to wire 3 in series from panel to panel. I won't meet code as most of my panels are home made. I have 6 panels that are bought. I am confused with the two post and want to be right before I pull the trigger. Can we fix these inconsistancies? I do apretiate all help.
gww

dbcollen · « **Reply #11 on:** September 01, 2012, 09:55:54 PM »

I just looked up the panel specs, it appears there is a proprietary J-box that requires special connectors. Ignore what I said previously. Nekit appears to know what connectors you can modify for your panels.

gww · « **Reply #12 on:** September 02, 2012, 06:12:05 AM »

dbcollen
You are a "stand up" guy for making that clear.
Thank you
gww

gww · « **Reply #13 on:** September 02, 2012, 06:43:17 AM »

nekit
I didn't have quite as good of luck at the link you posted. In their defence my request probly looked kind of small. I ask for twelve female and how much with shipping. They sent back; "We don't sell individule pe, just order the listing and we will set up shipping in 3 to 5 days" I must have insulted them by being that far away from their list number. Any other suggestions where I might get these connectors in smaller amounts? I still thank you for helping me know what to buy rather then letting me make a mistake.
gww

gww · « **Reply #14 on:** September 02, 2012, 01:40:14 PM »

Does anyone know if these would fit the nipple at the junction box on the mx panels?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tyco-Mate-N-Lock-Connectors-350550-2-/160858529879?_trksid=p2045573.m2042&_trkparms=aid%3D111000%26algo%3DREC.CURRENT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D27%26meid%3D1765583180963948053%26pid%3D100033%26prg%3D1011%26rk%3D1%26

As you can see I don't know how to transfer links and I don't exspect much responce based on the gubelygok I copied above.
Oh well
gww

shoot, the link seemed to work

Mary B · « **Reply #15 on:** September 02, 2012, 02:54:36 PM »

The ebay link appears to be just the pins and not the connector housing. You need both.

gww · « **Reply #16 on:** September 02, 2012, 03:30:26 PM »

MaryAlana
To do it correctly I would need the housing. So far I am not able to find small amounts without having to buy pairs. I was thinking of just getting these if they would fit and using them also for easier linking of my homemade panels and using srink wrap or such to weather proof it. It would make easier changing out of panels that don't pull thier weight as They go bad. I am convinced this will happen sooner with my homemade panels then with the bought ones. All the decently priced fittings want you buy 50 pairs. I only have 6 bought panels. I am putting them on racks in a field not on my house and as long as I can weather proof the connections it might be a way to go. I just wonder if they would fit. I usually save dimes so I can pay dollars later.
Thank you
gww

Tritium · « **Reply #17 on:** September 02, 2012, 05:34:44 PM »

Quote from: gww on September 02, 2012, 03:30:26 PM

MaryAlana
To do it correctly I would need the housing. So far I am not able to find small amounts without having to buy pairs. I was thinking of just getting these if they would fit and using them also for easier linking of my homemade panels and using srink wrap or such to weather proof it. It would make easier changing out of panels that don't pull thier weight as They go bad. I am convinced this will happen sooner with my homemade panels then with the bought ones. All the decently priced fittings want you buy 50 pairs. I only have 6 bought panels. I am putting them on racks in a field not on my house and as long as I can weather proof the connections it might be a way to go. I just wonder if they would fit. I usually save dimes so I can pay dollars later.
Thank you
gww

A picture of the back of one of your panels would make things a lot easier. I have the impression that they do not have junction boxes attached yet.

Thurmond

dbcollen · « **Reply #18 on:** September 02, 2012, 06:09:22 PM »

5-1394462-5 and 5-1394462-6 are the connectors you need, here is the links to them.
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity/5-1394462-6/?qs=%2fha2pyFadugzSo5sIxgpb8awjfAeS%252bAtz5AiWV7cKy%252bbsRfnm%252bzLng%3d%3d and http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity/5-1394462-5/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtt1NDYJdFZeGgoN1nvTNdB $3.67 each doesn't seem unreasonable. Don't try to save a few bucks by doing it halfassed, it will always cost more in the end.

gww · « **Reply #19 on:** September 02, 2012, 06:15:26 PM »

Thurmond
The mx panels have tyco junction boxes on the back where the solarloc connectors go.

You are correct on the homemade. They just have the tabbing sticking out the back. I have had some out in the weather for a about a year. They are half panels. 30volts.

They have weathered fairly well except when they are touching wood. I have diodes on each positive tab. I have numerous panels stacked in a garage. I have been soldering wire strait to the tabbing on neg and diode on the positive. I was thinking when I put them up for good I would spray all of the connections varnish or something to weather proof them.

I do not have frames on most just either incapsulant, eva or contact paper. I have left about 750 watts worth of panels in the weather just to see how they hold up with the differrent backings. I have had them hooked to a cheep gti during this.

I could have did better had I understood the vacume proceedure that is at the top of this discussion board. As it is, all but the encapsulated panels have a small amout of traped moisture.

They seem to be holding their own but I'm quite sure I will have to keep an eye on them and switch them out as they degrade. Even getting the cells and tabbing for $0.35 per thousand watt and having free glass it has become cheep enough to buy new panels rather then make them. Even cutting corners like I did.
You are close thurmond. As I said before I wish I would have read the above post.
Soooo, will the above link connectors fit the nipples in the tyco junction boxes?
Thanks
gww

gww · « **Reply #20 on:** September 02, 2012, 06:42:53 PM »

dbcollen
I want to do that but its just so hard to swallow that for $55 I can get 20 pairs and free shipping. The ones you posted are $44. for 12 before shipping. You can get 50 pairs for $85. I know it is stupid to spend $1 more for something you don't need "unless I screw one up putting it together".
It just seems hard to swallow the price for what you get, Not that shopping for nothing else for the last two days makes sense either. More time then money I guess?
Thanks
gww

dbcollen · « **Reply #21 on:** September 02, 2012, 06:54:18 PM »

That is just the cost of doing business. Do it right, don't do it twice. I am done with this foolishness, it appears you have your mind set on "saving a few bucks" that is not the way I operate and don't encourage others to do so either.

gww · « **Reply #22 on:** September 02, 2012, 07:09:57 PM »

dbcollen
Thank for your thoughtfull posts above and for the time it took to search out and post the link. I will probly end up doing just as you suggest however I do have some time yet. Some one might read this and have more ideals. If they don't I'm going to be very happy you directed me in the right direction. If they do come up with something I will still be glad for you help. I have a feeling that with my homemade panels I will be buying more panels. I bought these because they seemed the best at the time. I didn't notice they didn't have cords though. It was still $0.92 per watt delivered.
Thanks
gww

gww · « **Reply #23 on:** September 02, 2012, 09:58:15 PM »

dbcollen
I bought 12 of these and could not have did it without you pointing out the part number.

http://www.onlinecomponents.com/te-connectivity-amp-brand_5-1394462-5.html?p=10397867

Thank you
gww

I thank all of you. I would be lost on everything I do without the people on this site.
Thanks
gww

SolarFlare · « **Reply #24 on:** September 03, 2012, 09:30:08 AM »

Quote from: dbcollen on September 02, 2012, 06:54:18 PM

That is just the cost of doing business. Do it right, don't do it twice. I am done with this foolishness, it appears you have your mind set on "saving a few bucks" that is not the way I operate and don't encourage others to do so either.

Agree. Think fire, no insurance coverage etc....

SolarFlare · « **Reply #25 on:** September 03, 2012, 09:49:14 AM »

I think it is important that NEC code be looked at for all installations*. These guys aren't doing this to make $$$, they are doing it to save us from our own stupidity. All of us DIY'ers have had close calls

Don't make the first solar powered casket

I must say that the DC current and arc from just was one 240 watt panel was impresssive. It left my VOHM meter probes with pits while doing the amp testing. This is a sign not to play with this stuff.

If you need to save money, shop used on Ebay or Craiglist or something. Talk to manufacturers about proper installation. That's free.

*HOMEPOWER MAGAZINE has a great code section in it.

gww · « **Reply #26 on:** September 03, 2012, 11:00:03 AM »

I agee and I disagree. I ran a small test with the panels with a cheap gti inverter cause I wanted to see them underload. I bought an outback inverter to place permanatly in my home. aproved ul, ce, ect ect. I have saw many discussions and many pictures on this site dealing with safety. I will put in the proper disconects run the proper wire and try to make my battery bank safe. However my homemade will never be ul, ce, ect ect approved. I won't hire an enginer to give me proper paper work. I have messed with the turbines and panels enough to know they can wollop you. My panels will be in a field. My grounding will not be to the frames of each panel as they have no frames "except the bought ones" I can ground the mounting system and the combiner box. I can't say it will never start a fire in the field as one time I dumped a bucket of ashes from a wood stove that had set for three days. It started a small fire in the leaves and this was with snow on the ground. I don't think it will burn my house down though. The nec says the panels must be wired in a way that it takes a tool to unwire them. It does not say you have to use one spicific connector. using ul aproved materials is a good ideal but just using them wont make my panels ul aproved. Therefor I am trying to learn enough so I can tell what commen sense is. I am a diyer though. I didn't go grid tie for the very same reason.
Thanks
gww

PS
I just read a post where a guy got a homemade winturbine paid for by the insurance company and I'm pretty sure that even with the new plugs the NEC will be requiring in homes, everyone won't have to retrofit just to get insurance.

SolarFlare · « **Reply #27 on:** September 03, 2012, 03:42:32 PM »

Quote from: gww on September 03, 2012, 11:00:03 AM

I agee and I disagree. I ran a small test with the panels with a cheap gti inverter cause I wanted to see them underload. I bought an outback inverter to place permanatly in my home. aproved ul, ce, ect ect. I have saw many discussions and many pictures on this site dealing with safety. I will put in the proper disconects run the proper wire and try to make my battery bank safe. However my homemade will never be ul, ce, ect ect approved. I won't hire an enginer to give me proper paper work. I have messed with the turbines and panels enough to know they can wollop you. My panels will be in a field. My grounding will not be to the frames of each panel as they have no frames "except the bought ones" I can ground the mounting system and the combiner box. I can't say it will never start a fire in the field as one time I dumped a bucket of ashes from a wood stove that had set for three days. It started a small fire in the leaves and this was with snow on the ground. I don't think it will burn my house down though. The nec says the panels must be wired in a way that it takes a tool to unwire them. It does not say you have to use one spicific connector. using ul aproved materials is a good ideal but just using them wont make my panels ul aproved. Therefor I am trying to learn enough so I can tell what commen sense is. I am a diyer though. I didn't go grid tie for the very same reason.
Thanks
gww

PS
I just read a post where a guy got a homemade winturbine paid for by the insurance company and I'm pretty sure that even with the new plugs the NEC will be requiring in homes, everyone won't have to retrofit just to get insurance.

"periculo tuo"
Latin

gww · « **Reply #28 on:** September 03, 2012, 04:21:23 PM »

Solarflare
I'm just a highschool dropout that likes it out in my hick boonies. If you ment to be over my head you were able to do it. I have found many here who talk english even the ones using internet translators to be very interesting and mostly helpfull. I would try to learn latin if I were cathlic, if only to be sure the preacher wasn't pointing me out and saying my fly is open. Anyway, all is good.
gww

DamonHD · « **Reply #29 on:** September 03, 2012, 04:48:16 PM »

gww: my iNtarWebs tells me that "periculo tuo" means "at your own risk".

SF: can we please stick to English? Some of us here have difficulty even with that, even after our morning coffee/tea/whatever!

Rgds

Damon

gww · « **Reply #30 on:** September 03, 2012, 05:10:11 PM »

Damon
Hey, I resemble that english remark. Just joking. You have always tried to help me and I thank you. I didn't understand or even care enough to look it up. Now that I do understand I agree that it is all at our own risk and as far as rules go, If you hire an exspert to do everything for you, you can blame the expert. If you do it yourself the blame comes with that. I try to help more then hurt but on this site I get much more help then I have the ability to give.
Thank you
gww

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Author Topic: MX Solar Brand (Read 7882 times)