Hot air panels update - paint and glazing

[Dave B]

 These are so close to finished I figured I'd post these photos showing that the black stove paint has been completed on the metal flat plate absorbers as well as the double pane glazing is installed. Not much left but the outside trim which I think will be aluminum and when installed there will be flashing along the top also.

 Before installing the glazing we temporarily installed the panels on the brackets that are already mounted on the house so we could mark the vent holes straight through each panel with the same hole saw. Using each panel this way as a template should make certain that everything lines up when they go back up permanently.

 I'm still figuring my choice for fans and temp. control etc. but we have figured everything so that this can be installed after the panels have been mounted and from inside the house.

 For something that seems so simple these have actually been a bit more involved than I first anticipated. I am sure they will be well worth the added effort to get things right to last and to be a neat install besides. Today would have been a great solar heating day. Updates to follow.  Dave B.

[dnix71]

How are you going to keep the wood frame from warping from weather changes? Polycarbonate (plexiglass) can take lots of twisting, but regular glass won't.

[Dave B]

We'll see what happens. The frames are well built and of course insulated. The double pane glass is installed using the proper "security" tape / caulk which is amazing stuff and will help structurally also. Not too much different than from the wooden frames of the original slidng doors. Everything moves with temperature, that's what caulks and foam tape are for. It will be interesting and I am anxious to get these installed. If they smash, crack, break or fall apart I'll build them again and make changes. Thanks for your comment and concerns.  Dave B.

[dnix71]

So the glass is glued/taped/caulked to the frame? That should be okay.

[Dave B]

 The frames are routered larger to accept the glass with a bit of room for movement should any occur. The glass is set in with the security caulk that is special just for this purpose of mounting / sealing glass panels into an assembly. You basically get one shot at this as there is no sliding the glass after it's set on it.

 The spacing between the edge of the glass and the frame was then caulked with 100% silcone caulk. Finally I will be adding the aluminum angle finish frame securing and sealing the glass from the front also. This will be for looks as much as anything but I think is also the proper way to complete the job.

 I can't wait to finish these up and the next challange will be to mount them, they are heavy. Updates to follow.  Dave B.  

[MattM]

Are you trimming with an L-metal or J-metal?  I always liked the look of the J around the glass.  Either way, make sure you put a drip off edge along the bottom side or your moisture will siphon back to the frame.  That is a very bad thing.

[Dave B]

 Not really sure what you mean by J metal but I was planning on just simple aluminum L bracket across the glass face and outer side edge of the frame. I am going to be careful to seal this well also as well as the flashing at the top and some type of drip edge at the bottom like you mention.

 The stain / sealer on the wood is about as good as it gets for exterior protection, my whole house is done with it and it will be a simple matter to slap a new coat on there when it needs it again. Also helping the situation is that there is a large roof overhang that shelters that wall from straight down rain but does not shade the panels from the sun.

 We need to engineer the install, these are heavy panels. Thanks for your comments.  Dave B.  

[MattM]

By J:



You can hide the uglies.

[ghurd]

I would have a bit of concern about anywhere water can collect and freeze.

I have seen the rear frames of PVs distorted from frozen water.

G-

[MattM]

The beauty of the j-metal is he can seal a second time against the j.  Two seals are better than one, especially when you want to keep outside moisture out of the frame.  If he has any caulk trimming tools he can run a professional looking bead that will run water off at the bottom side.