Author Topic: My first TDM is up!  (Read 1376 times)

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eformx

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My first TDM is up!
« on: July 29, 2004, 10:05:22 PM »
Put up my first TDM Genny...


Ametek 30vdc 200 rpm Tape Drive Motor (TDM), $62 cdn. 4 inch pipe clamps ($10) to hold TDM to 2 inch thick Pine Base. Polyken Sealant Tape was $12, its wrapped around motor to reduce any water intrusion or rust. Soldered connectors to TDM wires, covered with Heat Shrink Tubing to keep out the elements, about $4 for the tubing. 3 feet of Angle Iron ($7) to attach tail which is 3/8 inch painted plywood.


1.25 inch Flange Bearing ($30) is attached to the pine base. The bearing allows Genny to gracefully move when the wind pushes the tail. 1.25 inch inside diameter hole drilled into pine base above the flange bearing hole. 1.25 inch drill bit ($6). The 10 foot long 1.25 inch fence rail ($11) from the local Rona (Home Center) slides into the Flange Bearing, then into the 1.25 inch deep hole. The hole ensures that the Flange Bearing does not move (a flange bearing is designed to align itself with the shaft angle).


A 1/4 inch hole is drilled in the center of the pine hole for the wires coming from the TDM. The TDM wire is fed through the hole and down the pipe. I am currently using 18AWG (18 gauge) electrical wire, but will eventually update it to Rubber Welders Cable (I hear its tough stuff).


Props are made from 4 inch PVC pipe, the same stuff they use for drainage tiles, make sure you ask for the solid pipe (no holes, $11 for 10 foot length). 4 degree tip with a 28 degree root, these blades have a strong twist to them. Total length of a blade is 45 inches. Used a Jig Saw to cut them. Cut one then traced another on the pipe to cut the next. Tried to cut the trailing edge on an angle to improve performance. Tips are curved to reduce noise. The blades are sitting on the 5/8 inch Shaft Adapter ($6 cdn at Lee Valley). They are pressed together with the nut and washer holding them in place. The PVC is extremely strong, bends like crazy without breaking. I have the Flange Bearing angled up slightly from the pole (about 3 degrees), this should give the props more room to bend in high winds before hitting the pole.


Currently the Genny is mounted to a Roof Gable. I am using an Eave Mount (see image), $25). 3 inch Lag Bolts used to support Eave Mount to Gable. 30 inch bottom Eave Mount has serrated edge where pipe sits, this should reduce any movement of pipe and reduce vibrations. I originally put up the 10 foot pipe, but it was difficult to handle. Cut the pipe down to about 4 feet. The Genny blades sit about 6 inches from the peak of the roof. In my area (the Ottawa Valley, Canada) the trees are about the same height or shorter than the roof. Winds of less than 2 mph on my Anemometer have the blades spinning (about 5 volts reported). I might look at stepping up the voltage (perhaps tripling it) to push 15+ volts at low wind into the batteries.


Previous testing of the genny and props at ground level produced 20 plus volts at 10 mph. From September to April we typically get 30 mph winds for most of the day. This does not happen all the time, but the intention of this Genny is to have Emergency power on hand in the case of a power failure (we get several Ice Storms here and they can quickly cut power). The batteries would be our green backup generator, always full and ready when required. Currently waiting for some big wind to see how it holds up, how much voltage/current it produces.


The plan is to purchase a 110 amp hour 12 vdc Deep Cycle battery from Costco, $67 cdn for testing purposes. If the Genny produces 300 watts in a 30 mph wind I might look at Surrette batteries. Next year a Solar Tracker and Panels will go onto the property (2 acres) and perhaps a connection to the Electrical box to reduce our dependence on Hydro.


I want to thank all those that have responded with their tips and opinions in this forum. You have really helped me put my first Alternative Energy product together for about $200 cdn!!!


For you newbies out there, I hope my 'Parts List' is helpful.


Sincerely,


Rob

(aka eformx)




« Last Edit: July 29, 2004, 10:05:22 PM by (unknown) »

TomW

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Re: My first TDM is up!
« Reply #1 on: July 29, 2004, 10:26:02 PM »
Rob;


Nice writeup. I would like to point out something that happened to one of my TDM mills. I did a blade swap, tightened up the bolts / nuts and put it back up. It performed terribly and I chalked it up to poor blade performance. I took it down to put the other blades back on and realized I had tightened the clamps too tight which distorted the case and allowed the rotor to drag the slightest bit on the magnets. Just tossing it out as a "gotcha" type thing that might keep you from chasing your tail if it happens to you.


Cheers.


TomW

« Last Edit: July 29, 2004, 10:26:02 PM by TomW »

Nando

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Re: My first TDM is up!
« Reply #2 on: July 31, 2004, 10:30:25 AM »
Rob:

You Wrote:

> perhaps a connection to the Electrical box to reduce our dependence on Hydro


Why are you saying this ?.

Normally, hydro es quite more stable than a wind mill, better power producer (24/7)

I do prefer Hydro at 1/3 power compared to a wind mill, long term, the hydro power generated is much higher and the hydro has less maintenance if properly built.


I have built hydros from 30 watts up, my first hydro built when I was an early teenager lasted, until the farm was sold and not more info, for more than 12 years, using 24 volts PM motors, bought WWII surplus ( bought 3 or 4 )for the project to replace it when the brushes & commutator could not be repaired any longer.


Using the house potable water, if a faucet was opened the generator would stop working.


Regards


Nando

« Last Edit: July 31, 2004, 10:30:25 AM by Nando »

crashk6

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Re: My first TDM is up!
« Reply #3 on: October 23, 2005, 12:02:01 AM »
I think he was referring to Canadian hydro electric company... not his own personal hydro generator.


But I do concur on the preference of private hydro generation.

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crashK6

« Last Edit: October 23, 2005, 12:02:01 AM by crashk6 »