Author Topic: Towers anchors  (Read 1589 times)

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brianc4

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Towers anchors
« on: May 29, 2008, 09:13:09 PM »
I ran a search on the board to see if anyone has used the crank in style earth augers or the new duck bill drive in anchors for guy points on their towers but didn't get any matches.


Has anyone tried them or heard anything good or bad about them? I am leaning towards the old fashioned chunk of concrete & rebar for the guy points but backhoes & concrete are expensive!


I might be tempted to use them if I could find some good reviews from actual users.


Keep in mind I am going to be putting up a 10' mill on a 40' tower.


Thanks: Brian Clark

« Last Edit: May 29, 2008, 09:13:09 PM by (unknown) »

alibro

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Re: Towers anchors
« Reply #1 on: May 29, 2008, 04:10:30 PM »
I can't say it is the ideal solution but it has been working for me for around a year with a ten footer. I dug holes about 2 foot wide and 2 foot a foot or so deep (in stony ground), I then hammered 6 foot lengths of angle iron into the holes until the tops were just showing above ground level. I then filled the holes with rocks and concrete. I haven't had any problems with the anchors but please bear in mind my tower is only 25 feet high so if you were going to do something similar with a 40 foot tower you should probably beef it up a bit. The angle iron was free and the concrete only a couple of quid.


Hope this helps


Alibro

« Last Edit: May 29, 2008, 04:10:30 PM by alibro »

wpowokal

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Re: Towers anchors
« Reply #2 on: May 29, 2008, 04:18:58 PM »
Brian I have not tried any but have read articals on them, much would depend on your ground conditions.


I prefer a block of concrete and rock, I push in as many granit bolders as I recon will be held together with the cement. Then the sheer weight alone is a good anchor.


From memory Bergy refer to earth orgers in their tower instructions, available on their site.


Allan down under

« Last Edit: May 29, 2008, 04:18:58 PM by wpowokal »
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windandsolar

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Re: Towers anchors
« Reply #3 on: May 29, 2008, 04:24:55 PM »
I have been using duckbill anchors for a 40' tower for 8 months, and they work perfectly.

The wind generator is 59 inches wide and the soil is heavy clay.  The anchors are rated at 1100 pounds and did not shift at all through a Saskatchewan winter with winds that stretched the steel cables an inch or so.  The anchors are not very big, 4 or 5 inches long connected to a 3 foot cable.


If you are putting up a 10' mill perhaps you should use a larger size duckbill anchor and maybe decrease the slope of the guy wires to reduce the strain on the anchors.

« Last Edit: May 29, 2008, 04:24:55 PM by windandsolar »

brianc4

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Re: Towers anchors
« Reply #4 on: May 29, 2008, 05:32:57 PM »
Thanks windandsolar for the input on the duckbill anchors. I have read the info on their site & it looked good but I wanted to hear from an actual user! I am thinking about the biggest hand drive anchors they make which are rated at 4,000lbs + in the right soil. I am putting the mill up in the back meadow which is good ole southern Indiana red clay as deep as you can dig!!!  I am a couple of weeks away from setting a tower but I will give the duckbills a closer look.


Thanks: Brian Clark

« Last Edit: May 29, 2008, 05:32:57 PM by brianc4 »

elvin1949

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Re: Towers anchors
« Reply #5 on: May 30, 2008, 04:02:30 AM »
Brian

 They "should" work ok in clay.Don't even think of it in sand or loam.

later

Elvin
« Last Edit: May 30, 2008, 04:02:30 AM by elvin1949 »

SparWeb

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Re: Towers anchors
« Reply #6 on: May 30, 2008, 08:34:22 AM »
I have actually used both!  


I am very satisfied with the screw-in anchors.  Bear in mind that you shouldn't just "get-em and crank-em in".  I started out doing that, and the first set of anchors I bought inspired no confidence.  So I set out to get the right kind.


I discussed it with a company that supplies construction contractors.  They had some big ones that get used by utility companies.  After looking through their books I selected a middle sized type.  They screwed in easily, they passed a pull test, and they have absolutely not moved now matter how tightly I crank the turnbuckles on my cables.  If you want a set of these, you will look for the ones with forged "knuckles", not just a welded loop.


As for duckbills, we used them successfully on a project at work.  They are about as easy to install, however you can get into trouble putting a duckbill into hard earth, because the tamping rod isn't stiff enough.  The duckbills are pounded into the earth with a rod, and the duckbill has a socket about 1/2" diameter.  Well, you try hammering on a 1/2" rod that's 6 feet long.  Talk about spaghetti.  We ended up making a rod twice the diameter, and turning down a tip to fit the duckbill socket using a lathe.  That rod was stiff enough to take the pounding of the duckbills into just about any earth for the rest of the project.


They are both good tools, but you must select carefully in either case.  Read the product literature, talk to the supplier, and when you buy them, get spares.  And test one!

« Last Edit: May 30, 2008, 08:34:22 AM by SparWeb »
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brianc4

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Re: Towers anchors
« Reply #7 on: May 30, 2008, 12:13:29 PM »
Steven,


Thanks for the info. I have talked to the guys that work for the local power co-op & they recomended the larger screw in anchors like you described.


Too bad I can't get them to bring over one of their trucks & have them screw them in for me!!


I also appreciate the heads up about the driving rod on the duck bills I am still seriously considering that route.


 Thanks: Brian Clark

« Last Edit: May 30, 2008, 12:13:29 PM by brianc4 »

TomW

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Re: Towers anchors
« Reply #8 on: May 30, 2008, 01:23:51 PM »
Brian;


A little trick I use on those screw in anchors is to wet the ground good before you start cranking them in I often find the getting started part to be the tough bit in dry soils. Damp top soil lets you get it started easier and straighter.


Another source for them is mobile home earth anchors which are common in some areas.


Use a cheater bar thru the eyelet to get some arm on the screwing in process. I keep a couple long solid iron cheater bars / rock breakers for these things including busting up rocks in post holes for anchors.


Speaking of post hole anchors.


Volvo Farmer [where is he these days?] posted a method where you sink a post hole then drive a fencepost at an angle into the hole from off to the side facing the guy point on the tower. fill with concrete to lock the post into the hole.


I used it and there is just no way it will ever loosen. You would need to pull that slug of concrete sideways thru the undisturbed earth to move it. Thats not gonna happen. Plus the pull is in line with the guys so no bending off to the side of the anchor point.


I think, done properly, the screw ins work well and are easier than driving in a duckbill. At least in our occasionally rocky soil.

Good luck with it.


Tom

« Last Edit: May 30, 2008, 01:23:51 PM by TomW »

KC8QVO

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Re: Towers anchors
« Reply #9 on: May 30, 2008, 08:28:22 PM »
What are some good sources for these screw anchors?


Steve

« Last Edit: May 30, 2008, 08:28:22 PM by KC8QVO »

TomW

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Re: Towers anchors
« Reply #10 on: May 30, 2008, 10:11:30 PM »
KC;


Local farm stores carry them here from like 18 inches to 6 feet long. Often used for securing corner posts against a long run of fence. Farm Fleet, Tractor Supply, etc should have them. Places that sell, move and set up mobile homes might have them, too.


Tom

« Last Edit: May 30, 2008, 10:11:30 PM by TomW »

SparWeb

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Re: Towers anchors
« Reply #11 on: June 02, 2008, 12:42:04 PM »
Farm supply also has the "toy" anchors, so beware.


You're looking for this stuff:   http://www.graftonutility.com/products.html


...then click on Pole-Line Hardware, then Anchoring.  You'll get the catalog pages from HUBBELL-Chance


Yes, I forgot to mention that if you are going to crank them in by hand, you need a BIG ignorant bar.  Considering the angle you point the anchor, the long bar hits the ground as you turn around.  You only get 1/2 turn before you have to take it out of the eye, walk around and crank the next turn.

« Last Edit: June 02, 2008, 12:42:04 PM by SparWeb »
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TomW

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Re: Towers anchors
« Reply #12 on: June 02, 2008, 01:39:50 PM »
Steven;




Considering the angle you point the anchor, the long bar hits the ground as you turn around.  You only get 1/2 turn before you have to take it out of the eye, walk around and crank the next turn.


Thats where a short bit of chain loop works as a "U" joint so you can crank it without resetting the bar every half turn. Loop thru eye slip bar into loop. Then I just walk round n round.


At least it works for me


Tom

« Last Edit: June 02, 2008, 01:39:50 PM by TomW »

SparWeb

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Re: Towers anchors
« Reply #13 on: June 02, 2008, 02:48:21 PM »
...Loop thru eye slip bar into loop...


Jeez some people out there keep thinking while us brutes just keep sweating...

« Last Edit: June 02, 2008, 02:48:21 PM by SparWeb »
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elvin1949

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Re: Towers anchors
« Reply #14 on: June 05, 2008, 09:57:19 PM »
 Tom

 I didn't know that anyone up north knew how to use CAJUN engineering.  HEHE

later

Elvin
« Last Edit: June 05, 2008, 09:57:19 PM by elvin1949 »