Author Topic: the flying vicegrip  (Read 1078 times)

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hiker

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the flying vicegrip
« on: April 16, 2006, 11:18:26 PM »
tail was a little light and it furled to early--so i used what was at hand...

just a few shots of my sawmill alt-10"-dual rotor-9&12..all six wires down the post for easy switch over' star or delta[jerry rigged]..powered by neo'es and lowes ceramic mags..neoes stacked on top of ceramics..the blade is a bit to large for this mill-but works fine anyway..[was made for my 12" rotor alt]ive seen close to 27 amps when a big gust of wind hits the mill-then it furls..[shorted to auto amp gauge]

sounds  kinda cool when you load up the alt-it lets out a low growl you can hear going down the post-the bigger the load the louder,

fun day in the sun--happy easter..............................







« Last Edit: April 16, 2006, 11:18:26 PM by (unknown) »
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drdongle

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Re: the flying vicegrip
« Reply #1 on: April 16, 2006, 05:56:57 PM »
What kind of yaw bearing set up do you have for this thing?
« Last Edit: April 16, 2006, 05:56:57 PM by drdongle »

jmk

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Re: the flying vicegrip
« Reply #2 on: April 16, 2006, 06:26:32 PM »
  Thats prety funy. Heck if you run out of vicegrips you could use c-clamps.
« Last Edit: April 16, 2006, 06:26:32 PM by jmk »

hiker

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Re: the flying vicegrip
« Reply #3 on: April 16, 2006, 08:11:22 PM »
the alt pipe slides down inside of the mounting post--good fit with a little grease to help things out...don"t really need all that power--my next one will be a little single phase-maybe 6 coils-6 ceramic mags[lowes]--plus it will keep the batt. desulsafide...

small double blade prop--with no furl..should make for a compact unit...........
« Last Edit: April 16, 2006, 08:11:22 PM by hiker »
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hiker

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Re: the flying vicegrip
« Reply #4 on: April 17, 2006, 02:39:24 AM »
just a shot of my ragtag stator--one phase has bigger wire than the rest..puts out more amps on that phase..all coils have the same amount of turns..i removed the rects from the top of the alt to the bottom of the post..

« Last Edit: April 17, 2006, 02:39:24 AM by hiker »
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electrondady1

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Re: the flying vicegrip
« Reply #5 on: April 17, 2006, 06:54:35 AM »
you've hot a sence of humor hiker and a knack for making genies. using the jerry rig method overcomes the wire gauge difference, thats clever. stacking the neos and ceramics is something i wanted to try but was warned against. please keep us informed if any problems crop up . also something ive always been curious about , on the central shaft, how do you build up the dia. so its snug in the bearing?
« Last Edit: April 17, 2006, 06:54:35 AM by electrondady1 »

hiker

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Re: the flying vicegrip
« Reply #6 on: April 17, 2006, 05:34:14 PM »
i use two block bearings 5/8"--its a good fit with a 5/8"s shaft--i toss on a little epocy to cover the threads for a good tight fit..as far as the mags--i do get more power with the ceramics tossed in there[tried it with and with out]...

heres a blurry  shot of the backside of mill and block bearing-of course theres one more bearing that mounts in front.....

« Last Edit: April 17, 2006, 05:34:14 PM by hiker »
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nothing to lose

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Re: the flying vicegrip
« Reply #7 on: April 18, 2006, 04:05:23 AM »
Hi Hiker.


Nice work, and neat job with the vise grips.


How do you have your tower mounted? Any pics for the mounts.

 I have about half the rear add on section of my 66 Motor home off now, in the way and rear frame in to far to mount a trailer hitch with the section as it was. 11MPG, got to take a car along! Also gonna up that milage various ways, but still need a car.


Of course I will be mounting 2 gennies on the rear, one each side I plan to live in this and run a computer most of the summer. I am wondering how yours are mounted, what kid of stress the body takes in good winds, and what's the noise level inside? I know you been doing this for awhile.


I have several ways I am thinking about doing mine. How I get the hitch on and put the rear section back on will make a large difference. My 2 gennies should be near 7'(84") apart at the towers so I am thinking plently of room for rotors of less than 60" each. That should still give me about 24" between blade tips even that large. I'll probably be running Jerry blades on one or both gennies. Either Efka 1hp 3phase DC motors, or garbogens, perhaps one of each. 24V system to run a rack mount UPS, also being installed after the hitch is done and as the rear section goes back on.


Any advice on pipe, mounting and raised height for such a setup? I know keep it under 12' when lowered for driving.


NTL

« Last Edit: April 18, 2006, 04:05:23 AM by nothing to lose »

hiker

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Re: the flying vicegrip
« Reply #8 on: April 18, 2006, 04:19:34 PM »
first off i would"nt recommend driving down the road with the jennys on the back....

i toss mine up there when im parked..its just a simple mount--hooks up to my ladder with u bolts and some rope to keep it nice and tight--the pipe slides down between the rungs--i had to beef up the bottom mount for the ladder--the ladder was only bolted to the sheet metal and 1/4" ply..i bolted on some 3/4" ply on the inside and out-makes for a strong ladder mount now--there is some noise in a strong wind--think i"le try some tire casing on the mounts to deadin the noise-

im going to cut my blades down some what and shorten the pipe also --dosent really have to be up there that high---well good luck on your mills and motorhome...

« Last Edit: April 18, 2006, 04:19:34 PM by hiker »
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nothing to lose

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Re: the flying vicegrip
« Reply #9 on: April 18, 2006, 08:43:50 PM »
Thanks.


No, I was not planning to leave the gennies mounted while driving. I am planing to take  off the gennies and store them in the cargo area for driving, put them back on when parked for days or weeks in one spot.


I was thinking make a lower mast permant on the rear though then either have a tilt up section above the lower mast or a slide on section top section.

« Last Edit: April 18, 2006, 08:43:50 PM by nothing to lose »