Locknuts

[Bayesoft]

I bought a nice set of aluminum blades and a 1/4" stainless steel hub.  The hub is drilled out for 17mm.

I'm trying to attach it to a Delco 10si that's been modified with a Windblue stator and coil.  The problem is that the hub is so thick that I can't sandwich it on the threads between two of the stock locknuts.

Can't tighten the hub down against the shaft bushings without freezing up the shaft entirely.  If I had thinner locknuts I could get it to work.  I found Jam Nuts on the Lowes website:

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=64114-37672-880503&lpage=none

Does anyone know what thread size I need to match a Delco shaft?  Thanks....

http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h113/bayesoft/101_0338.jpg

http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h113/bayesoft/101_0334.jpg

[Jerry]

Hi Bayesoft.

There is a spacer that fits against the bearing. I have taken the spacer from old parts doaner car alternators. I think even the Ford alt use the same size spacer.

It sound like your trying to force the hub against the alt case. Or an extra not needed nut where it don't belong. Check with a local car repair shop. The guy that replaces car alts mosk likley has a bunch of the spacers in his junk bin.

I think the auto parts store may even sell them. There is only one main nut used on the alt shaft not 2.

You should check my diary from today. I just did a test and a rite up on the Wind Blue genny.

Did you get the Boast Buster blades? Some folks I've talked to have been disapointed with the results.

Todays tests talks about 2X the power you'll get and much earlyer cut in with mods you can make. This will make this a usable genny. You can see the power you can expect in my wind test. from the stock Wind Blue setup and what you'll get with the mods.

                         Jerry

[Bayesoft]

I do have spacers.  Without them the hub would just slide all the way back to the case.  I actually have three spacers/bushings just to keep the hub at the threads and off the smooth part of the shaft.

The problem is that when I tighten the hub against the spacers it freezes up.

[Bayesoft]

I'm using the 80" swept wind-grabbers from windy nation.

[Jerry]

Are you gearing up or direct shaft mounted?

Never heard of those blades. Do you have a link?

                      Jerry

[Jerry]

I found it. Neet lucking stuff. I think you'll be disapointed in the rpm of these blades. 80" won't do the rpm this alt wants to make usable power.

                          Jerry

[Bayesoft]

I am direct shaft mounted.  See the second photobucket link.

http://www.windynation.com/shop/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=21

I'm using the DC-540 low wind stator from windblue.

When the hub is tightened down against the spacers.  The spacers turn with the shaft and rotor.  I can barely turn the blades/rotor by hand.  Even mounted without direct contact to the spacers, the windblue needs a lot of torque.

[Bayesoft]

How big do the blades need to be for a windblue?  I could put them on my Leeson PM Motor instead.  I'm just waiting on a mount.

[zeusmorg]

 I can't understand why you are locking up the unit putting the hub on. If the spacers are not hitting the case, and pressing against the shaft only, then it should not "lock up" when tightening.

 Something is definitely interfering. are these spacers riding against the bearing? If that is the case, force applied on the nut will over tighten the bearings and lock it up.

 There should be a shoulder on the shaft that the spacers ride on, otherwise you will have to tighten the hub nut to set the bearing play and use locktite or a pinned nut to keep it from moving.

[freejuice]

"I actually have three spacers/bushings just to keep the hub at the threads and off the smooth part of the shaft.

The problem is that when I tighten the hub against the spacers it freezes up."

 This is telling me you might not have a spacer inside the alternator....as it appears now when you tighten up the lock nut on the alternator, you are essentially pulling the alternator forward inside the housing until it comes into contact with the cover plate.

Pull the four bolts back out of your alternator again and make sure you also have a spacer on the rotor shaft between the cover plate and the magnet rotor,  You need a spacer there too it keeps the rotor from being pulled forward too muach and locking everything up....

 All the best,

 Gavin

[freejuice]

Let me add one more thing....you need a spacer on each side of your coverplate...one on the inside and one on the outside of course to keep the  blade hub from hitting.  Lets use this symbolism for a diagram: == ( shaft) I ( Bushing) H ( is your front cover plate) The setup would be like this:


===IHI=

 Good luck!

 Gavin

[Bayesoft]

Now that could very well be the problem.  It may be common knowledge to some that a spacer needs to go inside behind the faceplate.  Directions were not supplied on how to put it together.

Is this it?

Rotor | Shaft | Bearing | Thin Spacer | Faceplate | Spacer | Hub | Spacer | Locknut

[freejuice]

"Now that could very well be the problem.  It may be common knowledge to some that a spacer needs to go inside behind the faceplate.  Directions were not supplied on how to put it together.

Is this it?

Rotor | Shaft | Bearing | Thin Spacer | Faceplate | Spacer | Hub | Spacer | Locknut"

 Hi Bay,

try this: rotor-shaft-spacer-bearing-faceplate-spacer(after you're outside the PMA's spacer)...it will be whatever sitution you need to get the hub tightened into position.  

 Ok try this experiment to make sure....Put your 10si pma back together WITHOUT the spacer inside the rotor ( between the rotor and faceplate cover), then give it a turn, it should turn fairly easy ( you may have to put the nut on and turn it with a wrench.

 Now take the nut off and put the spacers and hub back on like you normally would and tighten it up...now that puppy is locked down tight isn't it?!? )

 Then take the hub, rotor, spacers and nut etc off the front and give the shaft a gentle to moderate tap with a rubber mallet or a hardwood handle of some sort, to seat the shaft fully back into its most rearward postion...two or three taps should do it.....again put the nut back on and a dollar to a doughnut it will turn easy again!

 Essentially without a spacer inside the PMA between the rotor and faceplate bearing you are using the outside shaft as a jacking screw; cranking on the shaft until the PMA's rotor is pulled int the faceplate, thus locking it down.

 The spacer is needed on the inside to stop this forward thrust brought on by the  nut when it is tightened up! That is why the spacer needs to come in contact with the inner race of the bearing and the other isde of the spacer agaisnt the Rotor and nothing else!

 You need to put one of your spacers on the shaft between the rotor and the faceplate housing AND MAKE SURE the spacer does not contact anyting on the face plate except the inner race of the face plate bearing. Hopefully one of your spacers will be the one that goes there to keep the Rotor from contacting the face plate cover.

 All the best,

 Gavin

[freejuice]

Hi Bay,

 Me again,

 you will,notice on the rotoer shaft there is not a stepped area on your rotor's shaft that goes inside the PMA, If it were so, the shaft could have been machined to do without the inside spacer bushing, by having an area on the shaft to prevent the "Over travel" brought on by when the outside nut is being tightened. As it stands now, the shaft is the same diameter of the faceplate's bering inside diameter.... And remains that diameter until it is at the face of the rotor. Thus the need for the spacer between the rotor and the inside of the faceplate to stop this "over travel"

 All the best,

 Gavin

[Bayesoft]

I want to thank everyone for their input on this.  Unfortunately it was for naught.

Discovered today, that yesterday I cracked the center of the faceplate.  I must have pinned the bearing because I can't get the thing apart.  Long story short...  I now have a pile of junk instead of a working pma.  I may be able to salvage and rebuild it again if I can at least get the blasted faceplate off.

I ruined the threads on the rotor btw.  If I can find an arbor with a 17mm bore I can rebuild.