Bedini Motor (working model)

[iFred]

This diary is basically a continuation post from

Bedini Motor  

By Roamer195, Section Diaries

Posted on Sun Sep 19th, 2004 at 08:01:46 AM MST  



Bedini Motor  

http://www.fieldlines.com/story/2004/9/19/8146/44198

As Roamer195 stated: I would greatly appreciate it if anyone has ANYTHING

NEGATIVE to say, PLEASE REFRAIN FROM POSTING IT TO THESE DIARY THREADS. If you possess even an ounce of human courtesy, you'll comply.

This is Fred's Diary on building a Bedini motor according to some of the information given in the prior post. That post with the link above was getting way to long and large to download using a dialup connection. besides I wanted to get a unit working and know what to look for when I get it working. This should help others that want to build it to figure it out as well..

I call apon all that know or want to know the bedini motor to both interact, ask questions and get involved. This is a simple project. Lets try and get a working model going. Keep the posts positive please...Here we go.

All pictures, descriptions and updates will be posted on my web page.

http://www.internetfred.com/bedini/bedini.html

Three critical rules to get the "effect":

Very weak magnets -

Very heavy flywheel with low air friction (done)

Very VERY freewheeling bearings  (done)

OK, as posted I have some ceramic magnets, they are semi weak, the weakest I could find. I beleive they will do the trick, how many should I use, 2, 3 or 4??

[Roamer195]

Just start with three magnets, like the patent.

[iFred]

What kind of core should I use for the coil???

Everything mentions core, but not the material or diameter.

Thanks!

[Chester]

I think the Bedini uses vertical pieces of welding wire snipped to the size of the coil width and fills the hole, then uses some aqueous cement or super glue as a binder. The coils may be wound on bobbins or spools, that the wire comes on, so that inside diameter is usually about 3/4". I don't think it's critical.

 

[RobC]

The web page says .030 welding rod Fred. I used what I had on hand I think .065 Rolled it in gorilla glue and stuffed it in the center of my spool. I am trying to build an exact copy of the 3 magnet monopole motor as well. RobC

[Roamer195]

The only thing that matters is that the approaching magnet generates JUST ENOUGH of a voltage in the winding to turn the transistor on.

So, any number of combinations can be used.

The simple model is only meant to be a learning tool. Turn on a small AM radio next to the motor before you start it up.

For testing any given motor, go get yourself a really good quality wire-wound 1k potentiometer of at least 1 watt rating. Wire a 10 ohm 1/4 watt CARBON resistor on the center connection. This gives you a "universal test pot" for quickly finding the motor's proper tuning resistance.

If you accidentally go too low on the resistance, the carbon resistor will pop instead of the potentiometer. It's much cheaper than replacing the pot, right?

While listening to the radio....

1. Turn the resistance all the way up.
   
2. Give the wheel a spin.
   
3. Turn the resistance down until it stops squeeling and JUST starts to give a solid "tick" each time a magnet passes by.
   
4. Adjust for minimum input current.
   

[RobC]

Motor is running!! Two things are immediately apparent.  Coil to magnet spacing must be ajustable and radio tuning is a must. Testing to come later. Thanks for your time and patience, Roamer, it's greatly appriciated. RobC

[RobC]

One more thing output charges 210uf cap to 107.5 volts in 7 seconds. RobC

[Roamer195]

Yeah! Pretty cool to see that happen, huh?

Get some more capacitance or jack up the pulse rate to get the discharge voltage down under 30v. This will help keep your contacts from arcing to pieces.

[iFred]

I am assuming that all the coils are wound as tri-filier. Meaning 6 wires are wound all at once to produce the coil core. I all assume the size to be around 3/4 inch.

Thanks!

[iFred]

Oh, Almost forgot, whats the best airgap or airgap between the magnet and the core?

Thanks

[Chester]

Three wires, each about 100 feet in length, wound together around one spool, which has its center filled with steel welding rod sticks. You should get 400+ turns of #20 AWG wire. 3/4 core diameter spool center is okay. No air core, here, though. Each wire winding has 2 ends, for a total of six ends. One of the wires is connected between the base and emitter of the tranny to generate a wave, the positive portion of which must be enough to trigger the base. Put a resistor and/or pot in this circuit to control voltage to the base. Another wire is connected between the emmitter and collector with the battery in between. This one energizes when the base/emitter junction is triggered and repells the magnet, which makes the wheel spin and times the pulse induced into the last wire. The last wire is connected to the bridge rectifier and from the rectifier to the capacitor bank and from the cap bank to the second battery. You must find a way to stick a pulse generator or commutator between the cap bank and second battery so it will charge efficiently.

You may also need a diode between the third wire and trigger wire, I think.

Chester

[RobC]

Can I Use a triac and zener diode combination in place of the contacts? With the zener you can set the voltage to discharge into the battery anywhere you want it or so it appears so far. The only problem I can see is that the triac might not turn off between pulses at some point. RobC

[Roamer195]

Ok, let's revise this just a little so you can use a transistor for your discharge.

A 2n3055 should be ok if you don't let the cap voltage go too high. Wire the transistor collector to capacitor positive and the emitter goes to battery positive.

Now, you need a good trigger pulse for that transistor (sudden turn-on).

Make a small winding on something like a sheetrock screw. About 200 turns of #26 or something around that size.

You can turn a screw down into a small block of wood until only about 1/2" is left standing above the surface. Then wind a bunch of wire on there until it looks like a little "hocky puck".

This is going to be mounted so that the wheel magnets pass by and generate a little sine-wave pulse.

Connect a battery across this winding to find the correct polarity. You want it to PUSH the rotor magnets away when you stick the battery across it. Mark the pos and neg leads.

Connect the negative coil lead to a 25ohm potentiometer. Then connect the other potentiometer lead to the transistor emitter (pulse sensitivity adjustment).

USE AN SCR (not a triac) between the trigger coil positive and the transistor base.

The scr with conduct in reverse, allowing the negative shut-off pulse to pass to the transistor.

Connect a 3v zener diode anode to the SCR GATE and the cathode to positive trigger coil lead.

So, what's gonna happen?

The trigger coil is pulsed by the rotor magnets. The sinewave pulse goes postive and then negative, very quickly. Then there's a gap until the next magnet comes in.

The SCR and Zener keep any current from hitting the transistor base-emitter junction until it's well into the HARD turn-on voltage area. This will dump the capacitor and then the negative going side of the sinewave shuts the transitor off.

You'll probably want to heat-sink the transistor.

Start with max resistance and lower it to where it produces the best voltage push on the secondary battery.

No more sparks.

You can connect more transistors DIRECTLY in parallel. I've done this with no emitter resistors to "match" the transistors since the "on" pulse from the coil is already pretty high when it hits the transistors.

Probably more that you could do to improve this circuit. But, I'll leave that to you.

Enjoy!

[Gunson]

Hi iFred. I've really got into the monopolar motor. Your site-link could be very interesting. It's just that I only find ads and nothing about bedini motor building.

How can I find?

[Gunson]

I was thinking a wind turbine instead of electrical input and just generate the voltage spikes out of that.

Don't know the downsides with that yet. Pherhaps the spikes  will get too uneven.

John Bedini himself says that the key for success with his motors is EVEN voltage SPIKES.  

Anybody know where to get pictures of how to build these motors?