Author Topic: Gotta get Movin'! (Read 5345 times)

Norm · « **on:** December 28, 2004, 07:24:56 PM »

watching my little windmill spin and I guess the first thing is to do a little data collecting on these few little blower motors for car heaters and AC's I just gotta figure how to make little generators outa them the easiest way possible.

There must be some of you out there that are using them for little generators even if they are just putting out enough to charge a couple of NiCads and light up some white LEDS would be cheaper than buying 4 magnets and making a Pico Turbine just to light up a couple of red and green LED's ....

Well I!m off to my cold shed to see what kind of output I get when I spin one of these critters at about 1750. (After I remove the blower of course)

Here is a view of the armature....

I was wondering....there looks to be room enough for 2 or 2 and a half as many turns would that make an very significant difference in the output?

Thanks for the help guys...I just know some of you have considered experimenting with these motors...there so cheap and plentiful its a shame not to exploit their potential.

Any enthusiasm on this will be more than welcome.

( :>) Norm

zubbly · « **Reply #1 on:** December 28, 2004, 02:44:06 PM »

Hi Norm!

I really would like to see them exploited as well. Most of the 12 volt blower dc motors for auto are often filled with more air than copper. The turns to voltage ratio would be completely proportional (double the turns and you would have double the voltage at the same speed, and would therefore make your cut in speed to half of what it is now.

Also, these are excellent armatures for someone to learn how to re-wind. Not to big and easily wound holding in just your hands.

GIVE IT A TRY GUYS! :-)

have fun!

zubbly

wildbill hickup · « **Reply #2 on:** December 29, 2004, 05:22:56 AM »

That's what I built my very first jenny from and I've been addicted ever since. I broke off all the squirrel cage except for the hub and bolted three blades 12" long made from cedar clapboards(built-in angle) right directly to the flat edge of the hub. Nothin' I'd want to leave out for any lenth of time but it worked. I used to just hold it by hand and face the wind, that little baby would crank. I have forgoten most of the readings I got. I think the max voltage was something like 2.6 open. One thing that I learn by holding it by had was a appreciation of the centrifical forces when you try and change direction at high rotation speed.

Now you got me wondering, may just have to dig that out and rewind, I've even got some bar neos just about the sam thickness as the origional curved mags. Let's see now if I could get that up to 6v and put........

Thanks Zub, another project to add to the list!!!!!!! :-)

wildbill hickup · « **Reply #3 on:** December 29, 2004, 05:32:13 AM »

Oh ya, you to Norm for bringing it up. A trip down memory lane. I wish all the projects since then were as simple as that one. No machining, simple blades, hub already attached, about 45 minutes (including all the intence thought) from idea to working unit, it was almost as much fun as blowing up my hydrogen electrolizer (it was a little one)no damage but my wife makes me work in the barn now.

Norm · « **Reply #4 on:** December 29, 2004, 08:26:31 AM »

Yes that is what (view5) looks like ...a lot of air and

laminations...some copper...just enough so it will work for

a year or two....relies on laminations.....steel is cheaper

than copper. I plan on keeping it simple maybe double or just

a little more windings if there is room.

Maybe I'll make an endplate that will allow for easy acess and

replacement of the brushes...plus a roller blade bearing(they

are a loose fit on the shaft, an easy fix) all of this plus

advancing or retarding the brushes slightly. Should accomplish

the goal.

If this works out I might even buy (gasp) some wire to rewind some armatures...if I run out of microwave wire that is....

Thanks for the support Zubbly...I kinda

figured on you replying.

Hope you are having as much fun as I am.

( :>) Norm

ghurd · « **Reply #5 on:** December 29, 2004, 09:43:22 AM »

How strong are the magnets in that one?

I have a couple that look the same and the 2 magnets are so weak they will not hold up a pocket clip screwdriver.

Mine will make 5-7 volts with a flick by hand, but peak at 7 volts open with a drill. I gave up on them. Is there some hope?

G-

Norm · « **Reply #6 on:** December 29, 2004, 09:55:58 AM »

Yeah WildBill...No surprise when you replied...

Holding something like 3 boards flyin around ..kinda like holding a tiger by the tail.

I can just picture you holding a 14 footer by hand...and your only concern is being able to hold it up high enough so the blades don't hit the ground! ha! ha!

Well with the rewinding part then maybe 2 of them in series and small chain chain sprockets on the generator shafts, a hub like this;

...

a wood disk with a chain wrapped around it...the

sprockets engaged..loosely so there is no binding. About a 4 or 5 to 1 ratio so the generators spin about 800 in a 15 mph wind and start to furl at higher speeds ought to do the trick...I believe these little things have this potential.

What do you think of my 'chain sprocket'..??

Just so much Fun!

( :>) Norm.

Norm · « **Reply #7 on:** December 29, 2004, 11:10:01 AM »

The magnets are strong enough with the way it is designed takes something like maybe 20 lbs pull initially to pull the armature out.

You must have different look-alike magnets... or a stainless steel screwdriver....these will pick up a couple pounds of 20d nails

There is hope for these things in my estimation with about twice as many windings and gearing up to increase the speed. and of course you could replace the magnets with neo's but then you'd have all these old magnets laying around....

It's the easiest and best way I can think of to charge some batteries.

At present and original I've determined that they produce 2.5 open voltage at 700rpm.

I rewound one armature with much smaller wire and about 60 turns on each coil and get about 5.7 open voltage at 700rpm.

So my next trial will to be to rewind the armature with wire the size as in the photo and as many turns as I have room for.... let you guys know how that works out.

Yes I think it is worth trying these things out .....nothing to lose( they're free it's a good way to learn how to wind armatures you gain quite a bit of improvement just by rewinding the armature with twice as much copper! (which you also get for free from a microwave)

Have fun! try it we can compare notes!

( :>) Norm

Norm · « **Reply #8 on:** December 29, 2004, 12:36:57 PM »

Ghrud, Hope I didn't sound rude.... I answered before I thought....if you were to hold a small allen wrench or pocket clip screwdriver to the outside of the motor it's pretty weak there where that thick metal band is wrapped around...that just shows that it's doing it's job of containing the magnetic flux and very little is leaking out. That thick metal band can be slipped right off by the way and you could put some neos piggy-back on the metal can centered right over the top of each ceramic magnet...then make a bigger band from s large piece of pipe and slip it over all of the magnets

powerful enough magnets would really make a big difference.

What is the rpm of your drill?

Thanks for the feedback...it all helps!

( :>)Norm

bob g · « **Reply #9 on:** December 31, 2004, 05:39:40 PM »

they can be rewound as a 2 pole machine, filling up all the available slots, then connect one end of the coil to all of the commutators, and taking power off of the brushes and then ground the other end of the coils to the shaft, then you fabricate a brush to pick up the other lead that rides on the end of the shaft.

i wouldn't be surprised if one would produce two hundred watts with a good fast prop

i think most of them use about twenty amps or so as a motor which equals around two hundred plus watts

bob g

Norm · « **Reply #10 on:** January 01, 2005, 08:32:43 PM »

Sounds good...right now I'm just learning trying to figure how to rewind it the regular way and just doubling the windings I'll be happy if I can get about 50 watts from it ...we only get about 15mph winds here and then a VAWT will be driving them for now.

But what you describe sounds interesting, can you go into more detail and sketchs or pictures?

I've only rewound one of these motors and seems like I may have done it wrong, even at that I got positive results! So it's encouraging...

Thanks a Lot Bob!

( :>) Norm.

ghurd · « **Reply #11 on:** January 03, 2005, 10:51:39 AM »

I didn't read it as rude.

It has been several months...

The screwdriver will not really hold to the magnets on the inside, where the armature was. I think mine must be real old, but they are 'new'. The armature came out easy, 3 to 7 lbs?

The drill was either 900 or 1300RPM no load, but I imagine the batteries were low, they always are.

I was very suprised to see the volts I got by hand, so I bought 2 at $8 each. All there were. Just the motor.

I was even more suprised to see the lack of volts with the drill.

Never came up with a explaination for that.

Never bothered taking the 2nd one apart, or puting the 1st one back together (big job).

My brushes do not look very replacable. Don't recall the holes I notice now on yours. Maybe they are a different animal.

I like the piggy back idea.

I have to dig them out for a closer look.

Thanks for your input too!

G-

Norm · « **Reply #12 on:** January 03, 2005, 02:04:20 PM »

Well this is how the blower motors look that I get for practically nothing, I get them from a friend that works in kind of a salvage yard ...I help him fix junk lawnmowers he sells them and pays me off in blower motors.

So is this what yours look like?

If you can get brush material you can replace brushes if necessary ...putting armature in your drill you can shine up the commutator with some fine sandpaper. with some thread or fine wire you can hold the brushes back far enough to put the armature in place...then cut the wire or thread and put the other end on and bend the tabs back to their original position. There is enough potential here just as they are that if you spin them fast enough ...you could charge a battery. Altho I'm attempting to rewind the armature...this isn't the easiest route to take. for some...

Even at $8 each they are almost a bargain, just think when they were new they cost about $80 !

Your input is really appreciated keep posting your progress and I really want to help !

This diary and the input is on my hotlist...things move off the frontpage pretty quick nowadays...don't they?

Hope you're all havin' Fun!

( :>) Norm

I guess I was exagerrating a little...a 5 pound weight onto the housing does just barely pull the armature out.

ghurd · « **Reply #13 on:** January 04, 2005, 10:05:18 AM »

Three parts, no particular order.

Well, the guts look the same.

I think there is less space between the magnets, or longer arc, or less inches from the end of one to the other. (I can't think of any less confusing ways to say it)

There is no flange on mine, they are face mount. Nothing relative written on them but 12v.

Someone recommended dental floss to hold the brushes back. Strong, slipery, small, flexable. Never tried it.

And last.

I thought of seriesing 2 coils somehow. Have no idea if it would work.

Kind of figured the wave would be mostly flat at 7v, with a narrow spike for 14v.

Also kind of thought about some kind of bypass diodes, connected somehow to keep 2 coils in series somehow. Like coils A+B working, then B+C, then C+D, then D+A.

Took longer to type it than I thought about it (I imagine there is a major flaw), because I gave up on the magnets real fast.

Sounds stupid, but I never even considered rewinding them. Only reconnecting them.

I was quite set against any rewinding at the time.

I will dig them out for a closer look. Will try the piggy back with 1x2x0.125 neos.

Seems the machinist decided I'll get my rotors back in 2008, so I'll have some playtime that isn't used up playing with my 'good' rotors (I decided it was not the best motor conversion anyway- high ohms). I hope he's not charging me by the hour!

G-

Norm · « **Reply #14 on:** January 04, 2005, 07:09:39 PM »

G- , Yeah I would have tried the piggy back method a long time ago if I'da had the neos don't have any except in my hard drives of the computers that I'm using....

Do your motors have that thick metal band around the outside of the shell where the magnets are? I imagine you would have to remove it, put the neos piggy back and then make a new metal band to go around the whole works.

Sounds like you got a lot more experience than I have...You probably can help me more than I can help you.

Ever rewound an armature? I've only rewound one of these (few of those 3 pole armatures on those hobby motors for slot cars that my son used to race when he was a kid ...don't really count)

I discovered that this blower motor that I r ewound was wrong...so after unwinding 2 of them and looking carefully at the third one before I unwound it.....I was looking where the winding ended up and Hey! it ended up on the opposite commutator bar also....

......DUH! Must be Two coils wound simultaneously ....

So you're not the only one that thinks himself stupid!

So I think I've finally got it figured out right!

Fun Fun Fun!

( :>) Norm.

ghurd · « **Reply #15 on:** January 05, 2005, 12:08:01 AM »

Norm- It's been a long time. Can't remember about the external bands. And they are closer to your place than mine right now.

I never actually 'completed' a rewind. Something always goes drasticaly wrong! And usually not my fault! Not enough wire, bad bearings, something bent, etc.

Never made anything that would really make 1a @ 12v! I have been going for a 12v ultra-micro-mini. I know a lot about what will not work!

On the brighter side, I have about a dozen in the works. Saw blades, rewinds, conversions... I realized I spent all my time waiting for something to get to the next step on that project. Now I spend the waiting time going onto another project. Things will get interesting if everything gets here at once!

I did think about yanking out the curved magnets and replacing them with a few grouped small neos, maybe 2 or 3 for each one removed. I thought this may make a V spike high enough to get some good current for a short time. It would take some careful placement I think. But then I read anything with brushes is not too good with losses and brush replacement issues, so I never pursued it. Maybe that would be a good question for Zubbly?

G-

ghurd · « **Reply #16 on:** January 05, 2005, 12:48:30 AM »

Sounds simple enough. But I don't get it.

Would half the coils not be canceling out the other half?

This is what I have been looking for, if I can understand it.

But 200w? I think you have to see and handle these magnets to understand how lame they really are. They make 'fridge magnets look dangerous! I hope I'm wrong.

They do have some serious surface area.

G-

ghurd · « **Reply #17 on:** January 05, 2005, 12:59:00 AM »

Dang!

I talked myself into it. I will switch the stock mags for neos. Maybe February.

More time then. Same money (none).

Maybe someone will soon post what NOT to do and save me some time and money.

G-

Gary D · « **Reply #18 on:** January 05, 2005, 06:08:48 AM »

Good luck Norm! The electric radiator fan motors look similar. New replacement cost last year for mine was around 20 bucks. One thing with mine was the can had serious flux leakage (could easily hold a few paperclips). Was only punched pressed metal. Doubling the wire and keeping down flux leakage may help a lot with lowering speed for 12 volt cutin? Too many projects barely re related here to do much (till the wife flips a switch and no juice and (oops)no gas for our generator). More on the conservation side as of now (buffer zones for exterior doors) Gary D.

Norm · « **Reply #19 on:** January 05, 2005, 09:24:36 AM »

One thing with mine was the can had serious flux leakage (could easily hold a few paperclips).

I guess things that look alike or similar doesn't necessarily make it so.....

The thick metal band that encircles BHPM motor must be pretty effective paperclips slide off the outside like they were plastic(which they were not because I checked with a magnet) however they do act like yours if I remove the metal band.

Funny how you start a project then you get sidetracked....just like now to rewind this armature I need to recycle some wire from this microwave and coil it up on a couple of reels. Would like to use the same size wire (roughly .035) but this wire is (about .025) but I'll look around.

Thanks for the input Gary...been wondering about those fan radiators motors, what causes them to go bad mainly ....Brushes?

( :>) Norm.

ghurd · « **Reply #20 on:** January 10, 2005, 04:20:11 PM »

Hi Norm,

Regular work has kept me from getting the motors yet. Tommorow I hope.

But. Won't the motor housing and extra outer laminations just 'short out' the piggy back magnets? Sort of like if a paper clip sticks to the rotor, add more steel. The piggy back magnets will have steel on BOTH sides, completing the flux path before it gets to the windings.

Maybe I am missing something. I'll try it either way.

I'm leaning to a rewind, AFTER I try it by changing the big weak magnets to a couple neos that should fit. Figuring where to put the neos is going to be a treat.

I have 2 the same. I'll leave one stock. That way I can test how new magnets or a rewind or both compares to stock just by switching guts around.

G-

Gary D · « **Reply #21 on:** January 11, 2005, 04:36:37 PM »

Norm, not sure if you'll see this being so far back. The one brush went bad. Turned sideways and did in the commuter. Not bad for running since "87" more on than off (senser went bad years ago so I wired it direct for when the car is on). Gary D.

Norm · « **Reply #22 on:** January 11, 2005, 07:12:54 PM »

Gary, It's not too far back...only a click away (Norm's Hotlist)

I first started a small collection of the blower motors when the brushes went bad (89 Astrovan in '91) and it quit working got one

from the junkyard...it went bad...etc. about 6 blowers later the ductwork must be plugged and restricted ...they all work fine until I install them....got to be such a pain that I brazed metal knobs on the ends of the bolts of everything that I had to remove to get to it including and especially the three that hold the blower on. I don't use it so much anymore since I got the Chevy Venture (2000) ....it's goin goofy too only off or full on! checked fuses ...shouldn't be the fuses anyway...probably something buried someplace need a homebrewed electronic speed control for it. Be nice if it had a brushless motor.

Nice to hear from you...keep in touch... ( :>) Norm.

Norm · « **Reply #23 on:** January 11, 2005, 09:20:40 PM »

Ghurd,

Sure would be nice if you could find an iron pipe just big enough to go around the armature and just enough room for some neos...it wouldn't be too hard to make some end caps from some plywood and if the shaft is about 5/16 inch roller blade wheel bearings fit close enough!

Have fun ...if we ever get to 'em!

Just about ready to rewind this armature by the end of the week I hope!

( :>) Norm.

ghurd · « **Reply #24 on:** January 14, 2005, 09:26:40 AM »

OK. Got my motors here. Some of this is pretty basic, but I always considered these as throw-aways and never looked too close before.

They look wound with 'about' 25 turns per coil. 2 coils per slot. Coil 'A' goes from slot 1 to 5, coil 'B' goes from slot 5 to 9.

Coil 'A' lookes seriesed with coil 'C' in slot 6 to 10.

A quick look, and I thought I'll just add series wire to the coils, instead of stripping the fine job they all ready did. You know, add more turns to theirs.

Here is where it gets wierd. There seems to be no start or stop to any of the wire, like a single loop without ends!

Each contact has a wire come from a coil, loop around, then off to the next coil.

OK, just found the well hidden ends. But given the nature of this thing, I don't know if I will be able add coils. There is not a lot of 'extra' wire to solder on more. And I'm not sure I'll be able to figure out which contact goes to which coil.

A meter isn't going to be much help.

I would be a lot easier if the brush contacts (forget the word right now) were a half inch farther from the coils.

I'm guessing 30~35 additional turns of my new small microwave wire would be spiffy. Too high ohms maybe. Not enough space in the can ends maybe.

This is the only possible revelation in this whole post... The placement of the coils to magnets to brushes look like there is some canceling issues. I hope I'm wrong.

The loops are crimped in the copper. Maybe uncrimping them will gice a little room to work. A guy who works for me is good at this tiny soldering in small spaces stuff.

I see yours has the same loops at the contacts. Mine has straight slots. I think I have more turns of a little smaller wire, hard to tell from the photo. This one has the big flux band inside the can, 1/8" thick.

Wouldn't it be nice to get one of these in 24V, maybe from a semi, or 28v maybe from a Cessna. Do they exist?

Nothing earth shaking. Just where I'm at with them now.

G-

Norm · « **Reply #25 on:** January 14, 2005, 10:12:15 PM »

Ghurd, Just acknowledged for now almost time for bed, catch ya later tomorrow, it's really simple when you study it.

I thought about just adding more wire to existing wire...maybe after this one...

( :>) Norm.

ghurd · « **Reply #26 on:** January 16, 2005, 01:20:10 PM »

Better numbers. Well, more accurate. 3.9v at 650rpm. 24 turns per coil.

Adding magnets externally has no effect. Good or bad.

That means 14v is 2333rpm. For a 300rpm cutin, I need 8 times the turns, or 192 per coil. 10 coils is 1920 turns. Each turn would average about 1- 3/4 x 1- 3/8, or 6.25". 6.25 x 1920 = 12000" = 1000 feet. Thats a lot of wire.

A 500rpm cutin is still 600 feet.

Maybe the math is wrong. I don't really know.

I can't figure a way to wire it at all standard with 10 slots.

Debating about a rewind of 4 coils wound the same. 2 empty slots. 2 neos at the right place, 180' apart. The output would be 4 pos pulses, 1 no pulse, 4 neg pulses, 1 no pulse, repeat.

If a coil is in the empty slots, it would act as a dead short through the brushes.

I may try a rewind today or tomorow. To nasty out for anything else. Maybe 100 turns of small wire? No chance to get the magnets mounted until much later.

We'll see.

G-

Norm · « **Reply #27 on:** January 16, 2005, 08:14:08 PM »

What size wire was/is on originally?

Mine was 12 turns .034 inch originally could

have got maybe 28 turns of that size wire in there.

Original open voltage at 700rpm was something like 2.8.

What I can get by rewinding with .025 inch and about 40 turns will work and spin it fast enough to get enough voltage to charge a 6 volt battery, or I could get 2 of them hooked in series....one way or another I'm going to be charging some kind of batteries with them...maybe even a bunch of ni-cads? in parallel?

Gotta recycle some of that .025 inch wire wipe, it with some polyurethane varnish, before I can rewind some of these armatures. Have Fun!

( :>) Norm

ghurd · « **Reply #28 on:** January 19, 2005, 07:14:35 PM »

Can find my calipers or mic. Don't use them often and always some place else.

I'm going to guess it was 17ga.

And there was 27 turns.

And there were 2 wires, wound at the same time. Confusing as heck. Lost track of which came from where. Numbered the armature. Wrapped the wires on 2, 2-liter pop bottles full of water. Didn't mark them. Then a wire broke. Somewhere, I lost track of EVERYTHING.

G-

ghurd · « **Reply #29 on:** January 19, 2005, 08:27:07 PM »

Bad news.

I rewound it today. 2 coils the same. Each straight to the opposite slot. Right next to each other. They crossed each other. Don't even attempt this if someone is going to start taking.

The plan was for 3. I ran out of space at the top and bottom. The plan was if I got 12v in each coil, I could split them. If not, then series.

I removed the stock magnets, a big job. Chips stuck everywhere. The last 10% was ground out with ViceGrip teeth. The BFH deformed the ring. Took 2 hours.

Installed 2 neos in the right places. 1x 1/2x 1/4". Covered the slot span about right, but could have been a little wider. The air gap was nice, about 1/16".

Was aiming for 100~120 turns per coil. Only 83 fit. Could have maybe got 100 with a lot more time and effort. Put them in series. Both ends went to 2 adjoining brushes, so just in case the magnets were a tad off the power would still have a place to get out. Super glued them into the armature, they wanted out bad!

Two and a half hours to get it back together! Drilled a hole behind each brush. Tied them back with dental floss, knot outside, over tooth picks. Way harder than it sounds, just tying them back.

The bearing twisted every time because the armature was skewed from the magnets. The contacts pushed the floss off the brushes. The magnet ring was out of round from the BFH, so it needed twisting to get it started, which skewed the bearing and pushed the floss down. The magnet ring still had teeny tiny chips of the stock magnets I couldn't get off, and that did not help.

So, 166 turns, 1 ohm per coil, 2 ohms total, single phase, 650RPM.

And 3.0v open, 150ma short circuit. Needed a capacitor between the outputs.

It did better than that stock! (3.9v)

I believe it would be much better in the stock coil configuration and with the stock magnets (unless someone wants to spend a ton for neos to cover the same space).

I believe it would have been much better to have a armature with 12 slots allowing for 4 magnets 90 degrees apart, for 2 perpendicular coils of double the turns, for a single phase rewind like I was going after. Or 16 or 20, or some number of slots divisible by 4. Maybe by 6 for 6 magnets and 3 coils.

A 3 phase may be OK, if the slots allow for it. Rectified inside the can, a pile of epoxy to hold everything in place.

If I was going to put myself through this again, I would rewind it in the STOCK configuration. I would not even try to salvage the wire. The whole point would be to accurately map how it was in there, to what contact, and where it went from there and in what order.

For the specs you have from you motor, I would guess you need 70 turns for 12v at 700 rpm and the stock wiring configuration.

I would try for 120 turns per coil for a cut in around 400rpms. I would not worry about the wire being too small for the amps. I would worry about not enough space for the wire, not just in the slots, but at the ends! I would say 150 turns would be better.

Remember that tiny wire from some transformer long ago? You need that now. And a lot of feet of it!

Sounds like a job for a motor shop. I may call them tommorow to see what it would cost. I still have one left that has never been open.

Good luck!

G-

Norm · « **Reply #30 on:** January 19, 2005, 10:04:24 PM »

Ghurd...Thanks for all the feedback, you've been a tremendous help...I've come to the conclusion that there is 3 different ways to go about utilizing these blower motors:

1. Use it with original windings and gear it up so it'll spin fast enough to put out high enough voltage to charge a 12 volt, or at least a 6 volt battery, make new end plates with roller blade bearings...it could have a seperate plate for the brush holders.

2. Rewind the armature with the original size wire only double the turns...which like Zubbly has stated will double the voltage at the same rpm. With the right combination of prop variations one might be able to charge 6 volt batteries.

3. Rewind the armature with this wire I have now and see what I get and go from there.

4. Leave everything as is and just charge ni-cads.

I don't really think using neo's is the way to go at all...(I'd have all of those surplus magnets laying around...

Going to start doing #3 option tomorrow be a couple of days and I'll post it not really sure how it'll turn out.

Thanks again for your efforts and feedback.

( :>) Norm.

ghurd · « **Reply #31 on:** January 20, 2005, 10:05:28 AM »

Got thinking. Thats never good.

The motor with the neos cogs Much worse than the stock one. Maybe I don't have enough width with the neos? I'll have to try my rewind with the factory magnets.

In the stock wiring configuration at least 4 of the coils out of 10, at any given time are doing nothing! Sometimes 6 are doing nothing. If there is a significant improvement with my rewind and the stock magnets, I will rewind it again. This time with 4 coils NOT crossing.

Like this... Empty slot at the top and bottom. Coil 1 from top left to top right slot. Next one right under that, and so on. If they don't cross each other, there will be more usable space at the ends.

It would make for a low 'duty cycle', 60% of the time making power, 40% not.

Are you going to rewind it in the stock configuration?

G-

Norm · « **Reply #32 on:** January 20, 2005, 06:54:31 PM »

I'm going to rewind it in the stock configuration first...it was wound

in pairs 1a was wound first, then it is turned 180 degrees and 1b is wound, (clockwise) you can see that the wire was looped around 1b tab then advanced to the 2slots that would become the coil of 2b....just as you can see how the wire was advanced from 4a tab and started in the 2 final slots for coil 5a.

I'm trying to explain this so a newbie at rewind can follow this and see how it is done...then if sucessful it'll be a project like zubbly and others have done with plastic pipe props.

It would be nice to get about 60-75 watts even half that at about 600 rpm heck even gear it up and spin it at 1200rpm.....whatever we'll see.

I'm going to try for 35 turns of this wire .025 inch stuff for my first try there is possibly room for 45 turns.

Let me know if you think my explanation would be clear to someone just starting out at rewinding.

BTW I'm over here in NorthEast corner of Ohio. Whereabouts are you?

Have Fun! Good luck!..with your rewind.

My first rewind of these things I thought it was wound with one wire so I just followed the pattern and went right around ....didn't know what I was doing but it worked....still don't know what I'm doing Oh...Well!

( :>) Norm.

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Author Topic: Gotta get Movin'! (Read 5345 times)