First Pictures

[christopher]

Have'nt had use of a camera before now, borrowed my sons today so here are a few of what I have been doing.  



These are my first set of blades - 10' dia.  T.S.R. 7  Made of 3 X 8 fir, mounted on a car strut with bicycle gear mounted to the rotor. I had planned to use a car alternator so reason for gearing.  Scrubbed this idea after reading on board for awhile (you might note hurricane damage to my cinder block walls of my house in process of being built).



This is a shot of a nose spinner I made for the blades from dense foam with a gel coat, coating.  



This is a shot of my first conversion attempt. I made a big boo-boo thinking it should have been an 8 pole whereas it was only a 4 pole and showed no output with curved ceramic mags.  So rewound as a three phase 8 pole 55 winds per coil, but got very poor results.  At 850 rpm open DC 24.6 volts.  13.6 volts at 1.5 amps.  Ordered neos and got much better results. 850rpm, 14 DC volts at 17 amps.



This is a shot of the daton with my second conversion attempt trying for smaller size but hopefully better output.



This is a shot, don't LOL at my windings.  I wound this one three phase, 6 coils per phase, 12 wraps of #14.



This shot shows the rotor 12 poles, using 1/2 X 2 X  1/4  neos on a jet pump armatuer with end plates from jet pump as the original motor only had bushings.  My first conversion showed very little cogging, able to turn it easily with thunb and index finger.  The armateur is only 1" long and I only used 8 poles.  The second conversion, I am having significant cogging problem approximately  2 foot pounds of torque. I wish I had ordered 24 of the 1/2 X 1 X 1/4 neos so I could have offset them.   At 850 rpm, star open volts, 20.5 VDC.   16 volts at 17 amps.  I realize while doing this posting that I am using a hand drill for these 850rpm test which is loading alot and is probably limiting the output of both of these to the hp of the drill.  I am going to pull the mags off of this rotor and try skewing them to see if this helps my cogging.  Thanks again for all the help over the course of my projects so far.

Christopher

[zubbly]

Hi Christopher!

Glad you made it to the winders bench    lol, another winder has stepped forward.

Your results look good!  If you wish to get the exact voltage you want at a specific rpm, look back in my posts. I did a 3 part post on converting motors and explain there how to arrive at the voltage/rpm you want.

Keep at it, you doin great!

zubbly

[Dave B]

Christopher,

   Very nice looking blades. If you have 3" of drop at the root and a twist you will have very useful power even in the lower rpm of your tsr 7 blades. Mine in the photo are 12' with 3" drop and twist but figure a little less than tsr 7 because I made them straight taper rather than the curved as you have. Mine have still run a measured 420 RPM unloaded in an estimated gusty wind of 30 mph. Seems not many here  are going with the larger drop at the root as the calculations indicate. Much power is lost in low winds without this large pitch and really can only be made up for with longer blades if the pitch is more flat throughout. I think we are seeing this along with some of the stalling issues mentioned lately. I am also very interested in your "spinner". You have done what I want to do so I have a couple questions. Pink or blue foam and what thickness ? What did you glue the graduated size disks together with and how did you turn it to sand off the edges to smooth the shape ? You mention clear coat, would this be the same as epoxy resin ? I have West's System Epoxy. Did you use fiberglass matt ? Thank you for leading the way and your helpful comments.  Dave B.  

[ghurd]

I just did some de cogging.  It may be of some interest to you.

http://www.fieldlines.com/story/2005/2/4/204149/2405

G-

[christopher]

Thanks guys for the comments! Zubbly, I have read just about all of your files and will on my next conversion try a single strand wrap to check for output before winding.

Thanks G, I have also read your posts.  Can't offset my mags as it is 12 pole, but will try skewing.

DaveB, thanks for the comments.  As far as the nose cone, I started with a 1/2 plywood disk, centered a bolt with nuts and washers, to mount it into my drill press with, (as I do not have a lathe).  The insulation that I used is commonly used on metal roofing jobs between the close boarding and the metal roofing, it is      

1 1/2" thick.  I glued this to the wood and together using standard contact cement, used for lamenants.  I did not use any fibre glass on the outside as I figured the stresses this close to the hub are minimal.  I then painted on about 4 coats of gel coat (this is what is used as the finish of fibre glass products that adds the color and is easier for sanding and UV protected).  Hope this helps.

Christopher