Hi nanotech
The speed controler is a Curtis. They may or maynot give the schematic?
You could build your own. We looked into that a littel. We tosed around the idea of using one of those small motor speed controlers and amplifying its output with the big IGBTs.
Not enough time to expiriment and develop a good working unit but I may do that in the future.
I have built simple speed controls with large relays and taps on the battery banks at 12v, 24v, 36v and 48v on a couple modified/hope up golf carts. You can also use home made large resisters from stainless steel strips. You bend them into a zig-zag and tap them a several points along the way.
Since my trips are short I don't wory about a large 12 volt supply for the 12 volt things, lights, turn signal, blower fan, radio and such. Right now I'm using one old red top Optima 12 volt. I'll be adding one 2 volt electric lift truck battery to this for a 14 volt supply while on the road.
So far the Optima has given me enough drive time to get home at night with the head lights, wipers and blower fan running but I only have a 15 minut comute.
I've thought of the computer powersupplies as they convert the ac line to dc anyway and the work down to 80 volts ac and the have 12 volt, 3 volt and 5 volt outputs.
I was going to do what we do at the store for our demo power supplies. we wire 3 high amperage 5 volt supplies in sires. These supplies outputs are adjustable from 4v to 6 v so we can set the voltage from 12v to 18 volts very highly regulated.
Problem is these supllies use a voltage doubler circut and there dcsection at the line input is 300 volts DC. I do have 120 volts dc onboard so I'll work something out. I'm also installing a couple 120 DC outlets for powering ac/dc type power tools and lights.
Used lift truck motors, old aircraft starter/generaters, tandem or multi golf cart motors could be used. I'd even thought about a cluster of tredmill motors as an option?
I took the picure with the bed off. We wanted this truck to look as stock as posable. Thats why we framed the battery box under the bed. Now I'm working on a lift bed for easy battery access. It also will dump a load of barkdust nice. I'll be beefing up the suspension some although it only sits slightly low in the rear.
I have plenty of power on board to run thre lift. Thinking of a 120 volt dc wench also (2.5 hp tred mill motor) I have some real nice 90% gear heads for that.
The charger is the pulse charger idea posted here several months back when all the pulse charger desulfater threds were going on. There has been a schimatic posted here. Maybe someone could repost that diagrm.
Its abit dangerus since its tied directly to the ac line. I can't post the diagram but I'll try to disrib it. It is very simple and It works very well.
One side of the ac line is conected to one terminal of the capacitor. The other terminal of the capacitor is conected to one of the "AC" terminals of the fullwave bridge. The other "AC" terminal of the fullwave bridge is conected to the other ac line. The dc outputs of the fullwave bridge are conected to the battery.
If you made this setup without the cap the bridge would expolde. The cap provides the pulseing.
For 12 volt charging 24UF delivers 1 amp of chargeing. Nice thing about these chargers is they don't care if the battery bank is 2 volts or 120. The battery bank voltage will vary the amperage.
The caps are motor run NOT start. Start caps will get very hot and self distructed.
I'm using 900 UF of caps. At charge start up I see about 15 amps of inrush tapering fast to 12 amps and after an HR or so levels of to 8 amps.
I'm using a group of missmached batteries. Some with pore SG are starting to get much better SG and catch up to the better batteries.
As far as safty conected directly to the AC line. A large enogh line isolation transformer can help this situation. Sofar I've had no ill effects with direct line conection.
I'll post upgrades as they happen.
JK TAS Jerry
