Exer-Gen-Cycle

[MelTx]

 

 This is my latest attempt at over unity,burning more calories than I take in...Im using an old in-place bicycle to make a charger.So far there are 14vdc into the batt bank.To get this much you have to get with it at first but the capacitor holds the volts up so then its not so hard.The heavy flywheel keeps it going pretty good.....Forcast of 95*F to day,if I find a 10 vdc fan I will still get 4v into bank.This will help my over unity problem.  

 

Im gave drinking beer good thing.This thing would probably do me in....

                                                MelTx

[joelhacker]

Mabye I am missing something, but you don't

need to correct for the over-voltage problem.

12 volt (13.2V) batteries charge at anything

over their voltage (if they are in good shape).

Because of Ohm's law, the higher the voltage

differential (between gennie and battery), the

higher the charging current is...

Normal charging of a 13.2 (12 volt) battery

is around 15-17 volts dc.

Make sure you have a blocking diode in series

with the connection so that you don't discharge

into your gennie when you are not burning off

those beer calories...

By the way, could you burn a few for me also?

[MelTx]

 Jolehacker You are probably right,I was kidding about the 10v fan thing.Humor seems to help when get mixed up.The gen-cycle does put 14vdc into the batt bank,Or it will light a 12v spotlight......However I have 3 ac motor converts that I hooked up in series and get 25 to 40vdc depending on the wind.Now they do this thru a 10 ohm ceramic resister....If I hook a 5.5 ohm spotlight to them they do-not light it and the volts drop to about 2 vdc....Why will the volts go thru the 10 resistor and not the 5.5 light? What did mister ohm say about this ? There must be a shadow world between theroy and real work the gennys will do...MelTx

[ghurd]

You need to check with Mr. Watt on that one.

They can not supply enough power, so the V drops.

G-

[dinges]

Meltx,

This is exactly what I'm planning on doing to an exercise bike. I currently have the coils wound (12 pcs, 75 turns each); dual rotor design, with 2*16 NdFeB-magnets (20x20x10mm). I'm looking for an epoxy plate of sufficient size (can't find PC-boards of that size, >300mm) to mount the coils on, that's currently the bottleneck. Next thing will be lasing the plates, the CAD-drawings have been finished for that, just a matter of placing the order. Next in line will be turning the bearing assembly (custom made) and placing a sprocket, and I should be finished....

Nice to read about your experiments.

Peter,

The Netherlands.

[MelTx]

  Peter,  I am not sure but I think what your talking about is what do the coils mount on....I used a piece of plastic 3/32" thick and the draw ties that are used to put around electtric wires,that hold them together.The plastic was an old carpet-floor protector.The kind you see in an office where they have the roll-around swivel chairs.Just draw the size circle you want and use a jig saw to cut it out.I use these for prototype. that way i can get a better idea, before I put it in the fiberglass mold.... MelTx

[dinges]

MelTX,

You guessed correctly. But I work a little differently with my generators:

I saw out a round piece of PCB (printed circuit board), epoxy one, of the correct diameter for the stator. Copper is etched away, so you're left with a bare epoxy disk of 300mm. I mount the various coils on this disk, wire them, and also mount 6 electrical connector screws (brass) in them. This way, I can select Y vs. Delta. The coils are tacked in place with superglue. If all works fine, this assembly is cast in epoxy or polyester resin to provide a solid, durable mount that can withstand weather and vibrations.

The difference with 'my' method vs. the Dans is that I use an epoxy mounting board, whilst the Dans place their coils in a mould (where already one layer of glass is placed) and then fill up the mould with resin. With my method, I can experiment a little before the final casting is made. Downside is that I have a slightly larger airgap (or rather, epoxy-gap) of 1mm (on one side)).

Hope that explains it enough,

Peter PE1VCC