Jensen Genny

[tajim]

I am still machining parts. I finished up the shaft, housing and support plates. All the parts pretty much fell in line with the initial design that I showed on my last post. On the shaft I used a 7/8's dia. piece of 303 stainless steel. I attached an aluminum hub to drive the rotor plates. I included a picture below.

I decided to use tapered roller bearings so that the windmill could take a thrust load. I machined the housing and press fit the race for the bearings to ride on.

Since the tapered roller bearings are not sealed bearings, I designed a way for a seal to fit in the support plate and work with the hub to form a seal. The hub on the shaft fits into the seal on the support plate. This works quite well and has minimal impact on the torque of the shaft. I am working on an idea for the other end of the housing. I have a new thought on a furling system that I am currently designing.

Below is a picture of the assembled unit. It looks very promising and I think it will hold up quite well in the long run. I chose aluminum and stainless steel due to their non corrosive properties and to keep the weight down.

The next step is the rotor plates and mounting the magnets. I will have to also make a spacer and the threaded rods to assemble the plates.

Thats all for this week

[DanG]

Whoa - tell us that rotor disc is ferrous! To have highest flux transmission you need the magnets on iron backing plate to force more lines of force into airgap away from iron backing. Having a solid iron rotor plate also allows inter-pole looping for return path flow also. You will lose ALOT of output mounting mags on Aluminum or Stainless rotor w/o providing ferrous back-plane.

To best utilize magnets the iron should just be thick enough that stray lines of force offer no/low attraction on opposite side, paper clips & iron filings should not be able to stick hard in the magnets shadow.

You can run with what you have if rotor is steel, or scab on an iron ring to mount mags to. If tolerances are set, you could countersink the iron ring into the rotor keep mags at or above the surface of rotor. You could also try coiling sheet metal steel strips into a laminate back-plane, 3/16" or 1/4" deep and .025 or .035 thick...

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[DanG]

Curiosity is itching fierce for this reader, how is the support plate that we are seeing to be used, and is a deluxe rotor set is to be pressed on?  Hope we get an update soon! : )  Very nice work so far!

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