Author Topic: My ideal solar tracker plan  (Read 4611 times)

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terramir

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My ideal solar tracker plan
« on: April 15, 2007, 04:01:01 AM »
Okies this is what I've been thinking about, however I will probably need help programming the pic computer that will be driving this thing.

The design is in pictures it's the easiest way to understand my idea, most of the materials will be pipes and joints from plumbing supplies, as for the boxes I will have to see  

The pipes that hold the panels are pipes one size smaller than the bottom parts they are stuck in there I will have to see how to ensure that they can't be pulled out probably A steel bolt stuck in a 200 degree slot that is reenforced. but can still let it turn.





these are the basics now to the turning mechanism





 and now to the third which is the plan for the tilting mechanism.




The great thing with this plan is that the pic processor can go to sleep as soon as the mechanism is locked in for at least 5 to 10 minutes hence the power demand will be minimal unless the panels are turning I will have to build the frame and panel holders first then I will have to determine the power need for the motor and solinoids.

terramir


PS: you might want to check the pictures in my files seems like they are not posting properly here but I think you'll get the drift

« Last Edit: April 15, 2007, 04:01:01 AM by (unknown) »

Titantornado

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Re: My ideal solar tracker plan
« Reply #1 on: April 15, 2007, 08:03:33 AM »
I guess my first question would be, how many of what size panels are we talking about? (is it necessary to have 6 individual trackers?)


The chain won't work well (if at all) for the two center trackers, but, you could arrange the pattern into a hexagon to provide better chain traction to all, if you truely need multiple trackers.

« Last Edit: April 15, 2007, 08:03:33 AM by Titantornado »

terramir

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Re: My ideal solar tracker plan
« Reply #2 on: April 15, 2007, 09:26:02 AM »
well the panels are made for 3X6 solar cells so the panels are at least 30 inches by like 25 to 26. in addition two of the panels were initially designed with 32 cells so they have four cell add on panels( built them originally before I knew what I was doing).


I definetly get your point, well right now I have 2 panels another 32 cell panel waiting for a four cell patch, and another panel I have the cells for another full panel as well as two panels I can build out of cells that are partially broken.


Here's the problem if I build the tracker to big I dun have a place to mount it, this is going on a flat roof, and while the roof is big the biggest problem is a lack of mounts. My owner is ok as long as I don't start drilling holes in the roof so I have to mount the tracker to pipes sticking out of the roof. The higher this thing gets to be  from the roof top the more forces in the manner of wind I will have to deal with.

However the pipes are an advantage because they are  perfectly grounded I don't have to contend with lighting rods, that came as an advantage with my anntenna as well.  Will also be an advantage when I start experimenting with windmill designs.


terramir

« Last Edit: April 15, 2007, 09:26:02 AM by terramir »

coldspot

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Re: My ideal solar tracker plan
« Reply #3 on: April 15, 2007, 09:55:04 AM »
Well

This idea gives room for expansion

adding panels down the road

But still seems a bit to much for my tastes.

I'll stick with the pipe over pipe Tri-Pod for free standing ones and pipe over pipe from tower support leg to ground for using everything together.


(At least thats my plan, someday soon I hope)

$0.02

:)

« Last Edit: April 15, 2007, 09:55:04 AM by coldspot »
$0.02

Gordy

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Re: My ideal solar tracker plan
« Reply #4 on: April 15, 2007, 10:46:16 AM »
Terramir,


"The pipes that hold the panels are pipes one size smaller than the bottom parts they are stuck in there" I would recommend flipping that end for end, other wise each joint will collect rain, ice, snow, dirt, ect.


If you decide to go with that rectangular set up for the base you will need idler sprockets (2 each) on the out side of the chain at each of the center pivot points. These would need to be set up so the chain runs a serpentine pattern. So it makes contact with at least 1/4 of the diameter of the pivot sprocket.


"However the pipes are an advantage because they are  perfectly grounded I don't have to contend with lighting rods, that came as an advantage with my antenna as well.  Will also be an advantage when I start experimenting with windmill designs."  I have worked as a roofer with flat roofs only. I recommend you contact a local roofer with flat roofing experience. Unless those steel pipes are unused structural supports leave them alone. Because they are probably sewer vents, with most of the roofs I have re roofed the only thing holding these pipe from moving side to side was light banding and the actual roofing material. they are NOT meant to take ANY load at all!!!


The preferd method (here in MN) is a bolt together angle iron frame set on 1/4" or thicker soft rubber. The frame is designed so that 2 angle irons (flats facing each other) are spaced apart just enough to fit concrete blocks in them. You will want this setup on probable all 4 sides. You will need to find out what the roof load limit is and the amount of weight you will need for your max wind load. So with rain, snow, ect you don't over load the roof. They are NOT cheep to fix


Good luck,

Gordy

« Last Edit: April 15, 2007, 10:46:16 AM by Gordy »

terramir

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Re: My ideal solar tracker plan
« Reply #5 on: April 15, 2007, 04:19:23 PM »
Barly any rain, no snow in like 100 years, and yes some of those pipes are strait sewer vents however there seem to be other pipes on this roof, that are thinner and solid they also dun make sense where they are, I know exactly where every bathroom in this place is , so I haven't figured out yet what there for except for the sprinkler ones. One of the pipes I had in mind held an attenna in gale force winds, and the pipes themselves are held by far more than building material. However you got a point I should look into adding concrete blocks to hold the frame as long as I distribute the weight I should be fine. Right now I got a 120 Lbs sheet of metal holding my solar panels that thing hasn't moved yet unless I moved it. And we had some storms here I was worried a few times that plate would get blown over but nothing as of yet.


But I will look into this further.


terramir

« Last Edit: April 15, 2007, 04:19:23 PM by terramir »