Deron,
Sorry for the delay getting back to you.
I'd try to find a generator (Onan or as Dan suggested, Honda) that was a take-out from an RV. Somebody else wanted to upgrade to a larger set. A plus is that most
are already set up for remote starting---you (or your wife) don't have to trudge
through snow at 20 below to start the thing!!! Hopefully they will be reasonably
priced. We use an Onan 4000 that we got this way. If you can find a 6kw (or is
it 6.5kw), they are really nice. We know some folks that have these and I'm envious!!
In one of your previous posts, you mentioned comparing batteries pound for pound.
I'm not sure that's the best way to compare. You need to compare the length of time
that they supply power and their useable life.
Here is a "cut and paste" from http://www.windsun.com/Batteries/Battery_FAQ.htm
* Starting (sometimes called SLI, for starting, lighting, ignition) batteries are commonly used to start and run engines. Engine starters need a very large starting current for a very short time. Starting batteries have a large number of thin plates for maximum surface area. The plates are composed of a Lead "sponge", similar in appearance to a very fine foam sponge. This gives a very large surface area, but if deep cycled, this sponge will quickly be consumed and fall to the bottom of the cells. Automotive batteries will generally fail after 30-150 deep cycles if deep cycled, while they may last for thousands of cycles in normal starting use (2-5% discharge).
* Deep cycle batteries are designed to be discharged down as much as 80% time after time, and have much thicker plates. The major difference between a true deep cycle battery and others is that the plates are SOLID Lead plates - not sponge. Unfortunately, it is often impossible to tell what you are really buying in some of the discount stores or places that specialize in automotive batteries. The popular golf cart battery is generally a "semi" deep cycle - better than any starting battery, better than most marine, but not as good as a true deep cycle solid Lead plate, such the L-16 or industrial type. However, because the golf cart (T-105, US-2200, GC-4 etc) batteries are so common, they are usually quite economical for small to medium systems.
* Many (most?) Marine batteries are usually actually a "hybrid", and fall between the starting and deep-cycle batteries, while a few (Rolls-Surrette and Concorde, for example) are true deep cycle. In the hybrid, the plates may be composed of Lead sponge, but it is coarser and heavier than that used in starting batteries. It is often hard to tell what you are getting in a "marine" battery, but most are a hybrid. "Hybrid" types should not be discharged more than 50%. Starting batteries are usually rated at "CCA", or cold cranking amps, or "MCA", Marine cranking amps - the same as "CA". Any battery with the capacity shown in CA or MCA may not be a true deep-cycle battery. It is sometimes hard to tell, as the terms marine and deep cycle are sometimes overused. CA and MCA ratings are at 32 degrees F, while CCA is at zero degree F. Unfortunately, the only positive way to tell with some batteries is to buy one and cut it open - not much of an option.
Here are some links to help with understanding what you need to set up your system.
http://electronics.howstuffworks.com/battery3.htm
http://www.windsun.com/Batteries/Battery_FAQ.htm
http://www.batteryfaq.org/
Ref: the dead Coleman-- after tightening the sparkplug, and finally wouldn't
turn at all. Did you pull the sparkplug again and try to turn it???
If it turns with the plug out but won't turn with the plug in--- sounds like
valves not opening. If it won't turn no matter what you do---you're probably
right. Rod has melted to the crank.
Keep chugging along. Eventually things should get a little easier.
Ralph
