Conversion question

[2windy]

I have 2 questions that I can't find answers to while searching the board. I'm just about done turning the rotor down on the lathe, but I don't quite know where to stop. Approx.how much air gap should I leave? I have read, the less the better and also I don't think I left enough gap because I can't turn it. The other question is glue. I am making a cage out of pvc and was wondering the best glue to hold the neos in? Thanks for any help!

[vawtman]

Hi 2windy

 Is the cage rubbing?Just get it so it runs freely.

 I used a product called Power Poxy for my 54pl.No need for cageing or potting just a temporary template till the stuff cures.

 Mark

[tecker]

Super glue the mags in place and wrap the rotor in filament tape that will hold them to check the alignment and gap and get some scope shots . Acetone can remove the glue , turn it and reset as many times as necessary .

[ghurd]

Are you sure it isn't just a bad case of cogging?

Seems like if it went in OK, it should be able to turn.

I'd try turning it just a bit with a pipe wrench, in a quiet room.  Listen for rubbing.  Turn it all the way around at least once (some small or cheap motors are not very well centered from the factory).

If it fits in with a few layers of filament tape, it shouldn't rub.

Don't use tape that stretches!

How are the magnets stuck to the rotor now?

There is a chance one jumped to the laminations, and the thing is binding.

I use 24 hour cure epoxy.

G-

[tecker]

A pvc cage is not a gtood idea as pvc will deform with heat maybe a layer of fiberglass .I haven't had a conversion potting come loose from a rotor  yet . I use urethane epoxy and it just gets harder with a little heat.

[DanG]

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[Ungrounded Lightning Rod]

I'd go with the gap from the original rotor.  Let the motor designers worry about mechanical and thermal tolerances and the like.  B-)