This is an old post so I guess I can't claim to have a patent on this! I arrived at roughly the same place as others via some experimentation.
I use a big wood circulator stove with a little bit of air leak and a 7 by 22 inch box about 8 inches deep I made out of glavanized steel which I brazed the corners on.
The fiberglass wick material takes a little time to get burning after I light it with a propane torch but it has good heat output for a while, then flashes over when the oil gets to boiling. I have to be careful and limit the oxygen to keep it damped down.
So I can open the stove door without a dangerous flashover I just made a hinged cover (hinges just drilled holes with galvanized wire loops) with a wire leading out the flue to control it. I will be trying that tonight if it gets chilly.
I don't need kero or diesel to get it started as the propane works, just a little candle like start in a few places on the fiberglass which slowly spreads to the whole fiberglass wick, then after a while the flashover which can provide enough heat to probably melt the metalbestos chimney if left uncontrolled!
The galvanized steel is showing signs of oxidation and becomming brittle so I don't reccomend it. This was a proof of concept. I'll probably look for something in a metal supply junkheap or fabricate something heavier.
In an earlier experiment I did use a gravity feed system on the outside but got nervous when once it went out and continued feeding. I like the idea I saw that regulates the level but will need to use tubing large enough to allow an air bubble back up the tube.
I'm nervous about this type of feed to fuel outside as I'm not sure what could happen with the high temperature of a flashover situation. When it is cold I maintain a controlled flashover situation by limiting the oxygen with the wood circulators bimetallic coil controlled air intake flap.
Nice to know I'm not the only one to have arrived at this simple solution. The idea of converting an oil burner to burn WVO seemed like very expensive overkill.
Any ideas on how to locate air leaks in wood stoves? I've thought of a few things like blocking off the stovepipe and injecting compressed air into the cold stove and looking for the ash dust.... I redid the seals and it still won't damp the fire out when everything is closed up.