Tower questions are dificult to be specific on as there are many site variables as well as litergation lunatics.
But to your questions, 25' radius for a 40' tower would suit, the greater the distance the stronger the tower will ultimatly be. The most importand guys are the tops two sets and they ironically have the most acute angel rendering them least effective of all sets.
The pipe you mention I would be happy using for a 10' unit but definatly no a 17-20' unit.
Gin pole length should be just less than guy radius for easiest errection, draw your tower to scale on graph paper, draw in the guy wires then a line from base to a point about 3' above indicated ground as your gin pole and measure the length. Using this arangement allows the guy wires to remain connected to the gin pole and you then anchor the gin pole. I use light steel cable from mid point of gin pole to each side anchor, this stops the gin pole from bending sideways during raising and lowering. (Back anchor is the one the tower is lowered towards, front is the pull up or gin pole anchor)
Anchor points is a grey area because your ground(soil type frost etc) and wind conditions are not known. Tower to gin pole piviot look at DanB 17' artical and copy his arangement.
Stepping to yaw tube, I achieve by welding a plate to the tower top, another to the bottom of the yaw tube and bolt the two together.
I cement in 2" galv angle as anchor point and atach to that with a "D" shackle- turnbuckle-"d" shackle-cable with 3 cable grips. Tower side I weld pieces of 1 1/2" flat bar with holes drilled in for "D" shackle, use thimbles on the steel cable. The tower base must have a line of site through the piviot point to the guy wire anchor point for each side anchor. This keeps side cables in correct tension during raising and lowering, oh and when you get that far tie the turnbuckles so they can not rattle undone.
allan down under