Interesting refs to the copper oxide cell. I got this off one to give you some idea of possible output from a copper oxide cell:
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A note about power
The cell produces 50 microamps at 0.25 volts.
This is 0.0000125 watts (12.5 microwatts).
Don't expect to light light bulbs or charge batteries with this device. It can be used as a light detector or light meter, but it would take acres of them to power your house.
The 0.0000125 watts (12.5 microwatts) is for a 0.01 square meter cell, or 1.25 milliwatts per square meter. To light a 100 watt light bulb, it would take 80 square meters of cuprous oxide for the sunlit side, and 80 square meters of copper for the dark electrode. To run a 1,000 watt stove, you would need 800 square meters of cuprous oxide, and another 800 square meters of plain copper, or 1,600 square meters all together. If this were to form the roof of a home, each home would be 30 meters long and 30 meters wide, assuming all they needed electricity for was one stove.
There are 17,222 square feet in 1,600 square meters. If copper sheeting costs $5 per square foot, the copper alone would cost $86,110.00 USD. Making it one tenth the thickness can bring this down to $8,611.00. Since you are buying in bulk, you might get it for half that, or about $4,300.00.
If you used silicon solar panels costing $4 per watt, you could run the same stove for $4,000.00. But the panels would only be about 10 square meters.
Or, for about a dollar, you can build a solar stove out of aluminum foil and cardboard. For about $20, you can build a very nice polished aluminum parabolic solar cooker.
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The lindsay plans are for the CuO cell.
However the nanocrystalline type cell has more promise, the conductive glass could be made using a tin (iv) chloride solution sprayed onto a heated glass plate, though I suspect it isn't going to be very expensive to buy.The "sintering" referred to is simply heating the plates to drive off the volatile organic carriers for the titanium dioxide and to make it into a homogenous layer and this could be accomplished using a domestic oven modified to achieve at least 450 degrees centigrade and its my understanding that a very specific temp control is not required.As to the connections between cells, overlapping edges are a really good idea as long as you produce alternate overlaps in the positive/negative conducting layers that way the cells are just in effect "clipped" together in series. I do wonder at the long term durability if these cells though because as a general rule dyes break down in sunlight, eg. your clothes fade!
some light passes through these cells and the dyes can be of different colours so perhaps a nice electricity producing stained glass window?
sorry for such a long post,
Paulh