Blades are a weird thing...
you can make them as complicated as you want... and you could strive to have each blade "identical". My blades never turn out identical... and I never know if one works better than the other two! When Im helping folks carve and they screw up.. I often tell them, "who knows, it might work even better! - dont worry about it".
So long as the width and pitch is within reason - and the airfoil on the back is within reason, I think there will be minimal room for improvement.
Some have much higher tolerances in their work than I do and spend much more time, but I really feel that a lot of people get intimidated by blade carving (and never bother to even try) because of how complex some would make it seem.
Curfing - and templates for the back side, that's something I'd never even consider worrying about. Neither would I worry about getting each blade weighing the same... just stick a weight on it and it will be fine. (perhaps Im wrong) I've seen 3 blade sets where two completely different types of wood were used and in the end they came out fine.
It's not difficult to use someones blade calculator or follow a formula and work out 50 stations if you want to - and pick an exotic airfoil profile and make templates for each station along the way...- but very time consuming. You've got to draw the line somewhere... I draw it at the place where I feel I can get it done before I lose interest (I have a short attention span). I think a person can make a blade which is the same from root to tip and it'll work fine. usually.. I often work from 3 stations - the root (which is determined completely by the width and thickness of the board with some consideration for strength and appearance), the half way point, and the tip - and I often make nice looking twist between the root, and the half way point - by bending a piece of springy steel and tracing the profile. I make the front side of the blades flat, the airfoil is a "nice shape" with its thickest point about 1/3 of the way between leading and trailing edges. The thickest part of the blade is usually about 1/8 as thick as the blade is wide.. a bit more perhaps towards the root.
I could be wrong.. but I have a feeling it can be much simpler than many folks think, and still work about as well. I think blades are pretty forgiving.