first blade done

[libra]

I have completed my first blade and am surprised that it came out so well.

I am anxious to apply the linseed oil but wonder about applying edge tape to an oiled surface and having it hold.

Can it, will it hold on an oiled surface?

Also the tip and trailing edge are delicate. I am planning to tape the blades to a piece of scrap board for handling and to prevent damage going up the tower. (150' guyed tower)

Appreciate any comments

Libra

[stevesteve]

Can we see a photo please?

[farmerfrank]

First blades are like a first love.I spent much time and care on mine,sanding and paint....then came the accident. Sad day. Second set took half the time, didn't treat them real well, and they just keep running. Guess its not worth putting too much time into blades otherwise you'll get emotionally attached...lol

Have a good day

[Experimental]

          I cote them with an epoxy resin, that has a UV protection in it --( West systems) And it can be polished to a high luster after sanding with 220 and 320 paper -- I also drill a very small hole in the tips, so trapped water can escape!

       The epoxy is expensive, but feel the expense is worth it ....AND, your edge tape will stick !!  Bill H....  ( we need pictures !!)

[ghurd]

Not sure if it is good for leading edge tape, but

I use that silver tape from Lowes and Home Depot

for a reflector in all kinds of plastic lights.

The slippery slimy kind of plastic that tape should not stick to.

But it sticks!  Too well sometimes.

G-

[libra]

Thanks for your reply but don't have a digital camera as yet but soon.

[libra]

Wasn't sure of my self and which tools worked best. Because my cedar is laminated the draw knife didn't work well. The plane worked best, after I chunked the bulk off with chisel and hammer, even then the alternating grain made for a tough board.

Libra

[rotornuts]

Try the draw knife again but make sure it is razor sharp. The bevel of the cutting edge should have a mirror finish or close to it. I've tried every sharpening stone under the sun but get the best results from the plastic backed drywall sanding sheets in the finest grit, 60 microns I think for a pole sander, then I finish with a felt buffing wheel and a polishing paste.Place the sheet on a smooth flat surface. It's very quick to touch up and I occasionally regrind the bevel. It's not nessecary to polish with the felt wheel but it's the icing on the cake.

I'm sure you allready know that sharpness is definitely the difference between fun and frustration. I realize it sounds extreame but you should be able to shave with your blades(not that I recomend it). A very sharp blade will cut against the grain without diving into the wood.

[Experimental]

      That draw knife, should work really well, unless it has been sharpened from the bottom side -- like a plane blade , you only sharpen from the top or it will be hard to control -- and like mentioned above , that polished finish really is , the icing on the cake..

      Also, the epoxy resin I mentioned above, will add strength to that trailing edge  -- and the laminated blades is really a great addition, for strength and makes them ridgid !!

      Sounds like a great job !!  Bill H......

[rotornuts]

that's an excellent point that I neglected to mention.

The only work you should do to the underside of a blade that is beveled on only one side such as a plane blade or a drawknife and chisel is to deburr after you sharpen the bevel.

The sharpening process will created a very fine burr on the underside so you simply place the blade flat side against the sharpening surface, be sure to hold it flat as to not introduce a bevel to the underside, a few strokes in the same direction as the bevel is pointed should eliminate the burr. If you draw the blade backwards you'll often simply shift the burr to the bevel side and if you deburr too much you'll also create a new burr on the bevel side.