18' Hybrid Wincharger update photos

[Dave B]

 Dave Moller and I have been working pretty steady on my 18' rebuild and here are a few photos of the new Ash blades he has carved along with hub and nose cone I've been working on.

 Everything measured and fit very well and has been indexed and drilled. I debated about the finish possibly with a spar varnish but I had great results with gloss white enamel previous so I think that will be it again after a sealer first.

 When the weather breaks I'll be out back starting to put it all back together as well as mounting a panel at the base of the tower for my dis-connect (anti-twist) and shorting brake as well and I hope to have an electrical high speed  shut down also. I have a mechanical cable operated scrub brake which I use more as a parking brake during severe weather and is also handy when raising / lowering the tower besides.

 More updates and photos soon as we near getting it back up flying again. Dave B

[wdyasq]

Dave,

Paint is many times more protective than any coating that allows one to see the wood. There is not transparent coating known that gives 100% UV protection. You made a good choice.

Ron

[dlenox]

Dave,

Nice work!  I too am waiting for a relatively warm/calm day to bring up my 17' diameter blades to the top of my tower as well...

One more thing that you might want to consider is to use some caulk where the root sections of the blades all connect in the center of the hub.  It will help to keep out moisture and critters from this area

Dan Lenox

[Dave B]

 Thanks for the replies. The wood sure is pretty but I won't be sitting in it like a boat so I think too that paint is the way to go especially for UV protection. The root ends are cut at 120 degrees to mesh together nicely but I do like the caulk idea besides. One reason why I wanted to drill first then spray was to help seal the grain in the holes, I plan to silicone caulk these areas besides.

  I think Dan B. mentioned one time that he also uses caulk or maybe construction adhesive when assembling his hub of this "sandwich" style with the plates. If I were to do this I would only use a very thin layer on the hub plates to the blades so as to keep the whole assembly very flat and rigid. I used silicone caulk to install my previous nose cone and will for this one also. 100% silicone I've found is worth the price. Dave B.  

[jmk]

 Silicone is handy I use it also. I put it inside the magnet rotors too. I ramp the steel plate to the top of the resin cast so centrifugal force can't pull the water  in. The water has an easy way to get out. It also helps when the cast has cracked or is starting to separate by the steel plate to keep the water from getting pulled in between and freezing causing more damage. I use it to help hold my nose cone too. I used to put a bead around the magnet rotor to the blades but That was a little hard to get the blades back off. I use past wax there now.

 Dave your nosecone looks like it's stainless. Your doing a nice job. It looks great. I can't wait to see your final results.  

[kitestrings]

Dave,

Sorry for the late response.  I've been off-site for a bit, but I've followed your project with interest.  Nice work, and do continue to post your progress.  The blades look great.  Good luck,  ~kitestrings

[wdyasq]

Boatbuilders don't like silicone for a variety of reasons. We use polysulfides and urethanes.

Silicone may be good for something .... besides implants.

Ron

[mjc2002]

linseed oil based boat spar varnish aka gym floor finish??